Patek Philippe unveils its novelties for fall 2021
Patek Philippe’s fall 2021 novelties are a trio of chronographs, which include the split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar ref. 5204R-011 in rose gold and slate gray, the self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar, ref. 5905/1A-001 in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial, and last but not least, the self-winding World Time flyback chronograph ref. 5930P-001 in platinum with a green dial and strap. Here we’ll focus on the green new, 5905/1A and 5930P. Although let’s just put it out there: it is the 5204R with the slate gray details that is the best looking of the lot.
Patek Philippe's In-House Chronographs
Patek Philippe Reference 5905/1A-001 Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced the reference in 2015 in platinum and then in 2019 in rose gold. Here the maison combined their 1996 patented Annual Calendar complication with a flyback chronograph mechanism that was given the added convenience of automatic winding.
In 2021 the reference is being given an olive-green sunburst dial with applied gold hour markers. Aside from the dial being in a sought-after color for the season and this simply being an additional version added to reference, what you have to make a proper note of is that “/1A” addition to the reference, indicating that the watch is now executed in humble stainless steel. Which in any other universe would be par for the course, but in the world of Patek Philippe, of course, the use of steel is always marked as a point of rarity. Now add to this fact that the watchmaker has also given the 5905/1A an integrated steel bracelet, with contrasting polished and satin finishing.
The reference’s other point of interest is that in 2006, the CH 28-520 base caliber used in the 5905, was the second of Patek Philippe’s in-house chronograph movements introduced, featuring automatic winding function, a vertical disk-type clutch system, a flyback function, a large single counter at 6 o’clock and a chronograph seconds hand that can just as well be used as a permanent (running) seconds hand.
The caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H used specifically within the 5905/1A-001, of course, features all of the above with the added sex appeal of the annual calendar function indicated using three apertures across the upper half of the dial with day, date and the month. There’s also a day/night indication incorporated into the subdial at 6 o’clock, which is there to help you set your watch as accurately as possible when you have to, as the annual calendar indications must all be adjusted using correctors on the left side of the watch case.
Dial: Olive green sunburst, gold applied hour markers; white gold faceted dauphine hands with luminescent coating
Case: Steel; diameter: 42 mm; height: 14.13 mm; water-resistant to 30 m; wapphire crystal case back
Bracelet: Steel; fold-over clasp
Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H; self-winding; flyback chronograph; central chronograph hand; 60-minute counter; Annual Calendar: day, date, month and day/night indication displayed in apertures; diameter: 33 mm; height: 7.68 mm; number of parts: 402; winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor; balance: Gyromax®. balance spring: Spiromax®; frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz); power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Patek Philippe Reference 5930P-001 Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph
Before we get into the new ref. 5930P-00, we’d like to invite you to please have a read of the extensive article we published earlier in the year pertaining to Patek Philippe’s legacy in the realm of the world time complication. You can read it here: The Complete History of Patek Philippe’s Glorious World Timers.
Launched in 2016, the 5930 was inspired by the 1940 ref. 1415-1 pièce unique made for Dr. P. Schmidt, which is an incredible World Timer with pulsometer chronograph. After two blue dial variations and one in red made for the Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Patek Philippe now adds a green, hand-guilloched dial with green fonts on the city ring, with the 2021 5930P.
The movement for the 5930 is built with, again, the CH 28-520 base caliber, which with the added complications is termed the Caliber CH 28-520 HU. The movement features a column wheel paired with a modern disk-type vertical clutch. The central chronograph hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display, which helps ensure minimal wear and tear and against affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve. The 4 o’clock pusher activates the flyback function, restarting the chronograph seconds hand at any time while the watch is in operation.
The World Time function, thereafter, is there to simultaneously display the time in 24 time zones using indicative cities. When traveling through 0time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher. All indications are then adjusted without affecting the accuracy of the movement.
Dial: Green, hand-guilloched, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating; white gold faceted dauphine hands with luminescent coating
Case: Platinum; diameter: 39.5 mm; height: 12.86 mm; water-resistant to 30 m; sapphire crystal case back
Strap: Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny bottle green; fold-over clasp
Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 HU; self-winding; flyback chronograph; central chronograph hand; 30-minute counter; world Time; 24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones; diameter: 33 mm; height: 7.97 mm; number of parts: 343; winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor; frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz); balance: Gyromax®; balance spring: Spiromax®; power reserve: min. 50 hours – max. 55 hours
More information: patek.com