News
Watches and Wonders, Day 4: From “Entry Level” to Complicated and All That’s In Between
Ressence
The newest Ressence release is “entry level”. These are the words Mintiens used in an interview with Wei Koh to describe the brand’s Type 8C watch, which, while being released the third week of March, is currently the main novelty of the brand and which is being shown in le Carré des Horlogers. It displays no seconds hand. It doesn’t have a moon phase. It’s not a chronograph, nor a minute repeater, nor a GMT. It tells you the hour and the minutes of the day. That’s it. But man, does it do it in the coolest and sleekest way possible.
Laurent Ferrier
Another “simple” watch worth mentioning that was released at Watches and Wonders would be the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue timepiece in titanium. While not “entry level” by any stretch, this release garnered less press than the blue-dialed, titanium Sport Auto released back in February (currently on display at the Laurent Ferrier booth), but is just as beautiful in its own right and an ideal watch for those who are all about a style that’s minimalistic. Its 80-hour power reserve isn’t too shabby, either.
Ferdinand Berthoud
Back in January, Ferdinand Berthoud released their Chronomètre FB RSM; an exquisite timepiece with a tourbillon regulator (fusée-and-chain transmission), deadbeat seconds and a stop-seconds mechanism. The watch, in the forms it was shown at the Ferdinand Berthoud booth, is breathtaking, but knowing that it was a young watchmaker from the University of Neuchâtel who helped develop the movement makes it all the more exciting.
Ulysse Nardin
Ohhhhh, do I love me a good ol’ Ulysse Nardin Freak release! The latest addition to the Freak collection at Ulysse Nardin is the Freak S: an astonishingly space-like timepiece which uses its two silicon-based balance wheels as part of the overall dial design. The movement in the Freak collection watches is always part of its outward appearance, but in this case, the parts were put together in a Lucasfilm-like way, making for a timepiece that is as complicated as it is fun to look at.
Parmigiani
The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante by Parmigiani might go down as the sleeper watch of Watches and Wonders 2022. It was certainly one of the biggest and most pleasant surprises I’d seen thus far, and I think it will make a number of the world’s watch publications’ “Best of” lists.
Montblanc
The glacier-inspired dial of the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date by Montblanc is probably what drew me in. Well, that and the fact that it’s a dive watch made by Montblanc, which isn’t exactly known for these types of watches in their current line (and yes, the watch meets the ISO 6425 standard and is water resistant to 300 meters). Oh, and also the fact that it’s hella-affordable, starting at sub-USD3,000 on a rubber strap.