The prominence of the number 1858 in Montblanc’s watch collections is no coincidence. It represents the year watchmaking came to the small Swiss town of Villeret, in the form of a movement-making company founded by Charles Robert and his (fabulously named) brother Hyppolite. Over the years, this company grew in scope and stature, registering the Minerva brand name in 1886. In 1902, they moved into a modern manufacturing building that would, for the next 100 years, continuously create mechanical calibers. In 1908, Minerva created their first chronograph movement, the caliber 19-9, and in the following decades, honed their expertise in precise, finely finished chronograph movements.

While the foundations for that expertise were laid down over a century ago, Minerva is still regarded as one of the finest makers of high-end, traditional chronograph movements, only now the manufacture is under the custodianship of Montblanc, which acquired Minerva in 2007. Already, at that time, Montblanc had a fine watchmaking division, but the addition of the venerable name of Minerva not only added a century of savoir faire to Montblanc, but this heritage has resulted in some truly inspired designs.

Championing the Chronograph

Historically, the chronograph has been a tricky nut to crack compared to simpler movements, so it makes sense for brands like Minerva to specialize. And specialize Minerva did, with one of the first monopusher wristwatch calibers, the Caliber 13.20, followed by the slender 17.29 and the Caliber 19.9. They were all exceptionally well- regarded movements, with beautifully finished plates and bridges — including the trademark V-shaped bridge and the “devil’s tail” detail that is, in fact, inspired by Minerva’s historical arrowhead logo. Not only are these movements widely seen as some of the most beautiful and accomplished historical chronograph calibers made, the great thing about them is that they are still being produced today — in the same building and in almost the same way. Thanks to Montblanc, we are still being wowed by these chronographs today.

Inspired by the Past, Inspired by the Sky

In 2008, the Villeret Manufacture celebrated its 15th anniversary, and a celebratory series of chronographs with “Villeret 1858” were released, marking the first use of 1858 on a Montblanc watch. But it wasn’t the last. In 2015, Montblanc announced a brand new collection inspired by the rich history of the Villeret facility. That collection was named 1858. Originally consisting of rugged, outdoorsy watches and aviation- inspired designs, the 1858 line has evolved over the years while all along staying in touch with its historic roots.

Take, for example, the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88. This 42mm steel chronograph takes its moniker from the red arrow-shaped marker used for measuring elapsed time, controlled by the bi-directional bezel which, by the way, is crafted from white gold. Inspired by two models in Montblanc’s Villeret museum (a 1939 watch with a coin-edge rotating bezel and a distinctive central snailed spiral, as well as a 1927 stopwatch), this limited edition is powered by the MB M13.21. These two historical pieces are from an era when time was tamed to help conquer the skies, and precise pilot’s watches were crucial to success. For all its fidelity to the past, it’s remarkable how contemporary this watch feels, and while the modern wearer isn’t likely to by using the telemeter or tachymeter functions too often, the Red Arrow is a link to the past.

Classical Inspiration and Contemporary Relevance

The 1858 collection isn’t merely an exercise in nostalgia. Only by looking at where we’ve been can we see where we are going. These next additions to the 1858 family are certainly taking the collection forward. Take, for example, the 1858 Iced Sea. Only Montblanc could make a watch inspired by the sea about a mountain, or more specifically, the Mer de Glace: the so- called sea of ice that is the glacial lakes of the Mont Blanc Massif. Frankly, a watch inspired by a glacier is a brilliant idea, and one that is entirely in keeping with not only Montblanc’s alpine identity but also its concern with environmental preservation.

So, how is the 1858 Iced Sea inspired by the great, implacable glaciers? Well, one look at the dial, and the picture becomes clear. Offered in three distinct hues — blue, green and black — each inspired by a particular type of glacial ice. Blue is the color of the alpine glaciers; green is often found in the Antarctic; while glacial ice-free of inclusions often appears black. The icy illusion is taken a step further, thanks to a ghostly impression on the dial that does a remarkable job of imitating the fine fissures and faults found in glacial floes. These dials are clearly the stars of the show, but it’s worth recognizing the stellar work done by the supporting elements.

Proportions are good at 41mm across and 12.9mm tall. The knurled bezel with color-matched ceramic insert strikes a fine balance between aesthetically pleasing and utilitarian. That balance is also found on the legible dial, with a date at three, Arabic numerals at the cardinal points and broad, sword style hands — all filled with generous amounts of luminous material. Finally, the addition of easily interchangeable rubber straps or bracelets is the perfect, user-friendly finishing touch.

For the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE 290, Montblanc has taken inspiration from their new Mark Maker, Nimsdai Purja. ‘Nims’ Purja, a veteran of the British Military’s Ghurka and Special Boat Service units, has a reputation as a modern-day adventurer. His latest remarkable achievement is summiting the world’s all 14 of the eight-thousanders (those lofty peaks all clocking in at 8,000 meters above sea level, in the ominously named ‘death zone’.) Most accounts agree that only 44 people have achieved this remarkable feat, and until Purja came along, the speed record was eight years. He did it in a single season.

The 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen celebrates this achievement. Not only is the 44mm titanium-cased watch, which shares the icy dial technique of its less complicated siblings, equipped with a chronograph and secondary time display, it’s been made with altitude in mind. Special lubricants have been used that can handle temperatures as low as -50 C. In addition, the watch has been cased in a zero-oxygen environment, eliminating the risks of oxidization and fogging in extreme conditions. And even if your idea of a successful ascent is as mundane as an uninterrupted elevator ride, the spirit of alpine exploration is celebrated on this watch, thanks to the black ceramic compass bezel and evocative laser-engraved caseback image of the mighty Mount Everest.

Tech Specs

Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88, Ref. 129614

Movement: Manual winding caliber MB M13.21; 60-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds and monopusher chronograph
Case: 42mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Black-colored opaline; Arabic numerals
Strap: Semi-matte black colored alligator leather with beige stitching and black lining PRICE SGD 44,000
Availability: Limited edition of 88 pieces

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Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date, Ref. 129369

Movement: Self-winding caliber MB 24.17 (based on Sellita caliber SW200); 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hour, minutes, seconds and date
Size: 41mm; stainless steel with ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel; water resistant to 300m
Dial: Polished charcoal colored and lacquered with icy impression in blue, green or black
Strap: Interchangeable stainless steel bracelet and blue or black rubber strap
Price: SGD 4,700 / 4,400 respectively

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Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290, Ref. 129624

Movement: Self-winding caliber MB 29.27; 46-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, chronograph, date, turning Northern and Southern Hemisphere globes at 12 and six o’clock with 24- hour scale and day/night indication
Case: 44mm; polished titanium; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Blue and black colored glacier with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Blue Sfumato calf leather
Price: SGD 12,700
Availability: Limited to 290 pieces