Breguet
Travel in Style with the Breguet 5557 Marine Hora Mundi
Breguet is of course famous for their dive watches, which have a clear purpose in life. However it’s another aquatic-adjacent collection that’s been earning plenty of praise. While not made explicitly with diving in mind, the Marine line takes inspiration from the brands history with French marine chronometres and adds to it a modern sports-luxury aesthetic. Breguet first introduced the Marine back in 1990, but in 2018 the line was given its most modern makeover, as well as the incredibly complex Marine Équation Marchante. This iteration of the line really struck a chord with fans of the brand looking for something that offered elegance as well as versatility, and now, with their most recent exploration of their Marine, Breguet brings into the fold one of the brand’s most interesting complications – and one that fits very nicely indeed into the luxurious sports chic of the Marine family. That complication is, of course, the brand’s clever twist on the classic two-timer – the Hora Mundi.
Over the last few years Breguet has invested into their Marine collection, challenging conceptions of the brand as only offering ‘dressy’ watches. It’s true that the Marine is some way off tool-watch territory, but there’s a sense of purpose and practicality in the aquatic-inspired Marine collection that belies the lines good looks. Wold you wear these fine gold watches with a suit and look perfectly at home — of course? Could you wear the Marine while swimming and exploring the world? Well, with 100M of water resistance, we don’t see why not.
Cased in either white or rose gold, the large 43.9mm Marine Hora Mundi 5557 is offered on leather, rubber or a full gold bracelet, with a dial that evokes the golden age of travel. A complex and multi-layered representation of the world writ miniature, hand- guilloché waves worked in gold and lacquered in abyssal blue lap against the shorelines of finely sculpted continents. The perspective is interesting, too, as the wearer looks down from the northern hemisphere, with the pole being located under the broad date aperture. Just off the east coast of Africa rests a half-moon day/night display showing the passage of a hand-hammered moon and sun, in rhodium plate and rose gold, respectively. It’s a smart and subtle twist on the traditional world time layout that, like the rest of this watch feel very current, and quite cool. Of course, there’s options for a gold bracelet or a leather strap, but given the nature of this watch the winner has to be rubber, which adds to the contemporary aesthetic, with its wearability and sculptural lines. Of course, there’s plenty of tradition to be found too, from the almost baroque ornateness of the folding buckle through to the fine fluting on the case middle, a real hallmark of the brand, and of course the fine quality of movement finishes on display through the clear caseback.
Tech Specs
Breguet 5557 Marine Hora Mundi
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds, calendar, dual time zone, day/night indicator
Case: White gold or rose gold, 43,9mm by 13.8mm, water- resistant to 100M
Strap: Leather strap, rubber strap and gold bracelet