How is it that we’re already speaking of next year’s SIHH when 2016’s one feels like it was just weeks ago?
In all seriousness — it really shouldn’t feel like that because a lot has happened since the January watch fair in Geneva. Vacheron Constantin for one, after the lauded introduction of their 2016 Overseas collection, at said fair, went on to unveil a multitude of other timepieces that had been waiting down the pipeline.
There was, for instance, the Maître Cabinotier Retrograde Armillary Tourbillon, the Métiers d’Art Élégance Sartoriale collection, a later addition to the Overseas collection — the Overseas Worldtime, a Quai de l’Île in Stainless Steel, a new version of the much adored Cornes de Vache 1955 in rose gold — and, of course, within all of those watch announcements we really shouldn’t forget the monumental collaboration they did with photographer extraordinaire, Steve McCurry, which took us to places around the world such as New York City and then to Kyoto and Tokyo in Japan.
No time to stop and take a breath though, because leading the pack for sneak peak announcements ahead of SIHH 2017 — Vacheron Constantin has just revealed two new timepieces, which further enforce the maison’s deliberate pursuit of the market even in the light of the industry’s present climate.
Patrimony moon phase and retrograde date
If the watch face looks, somewhat familiar at first glance, it’s because the retrograde date display already exists in Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection within the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date watch.
However, here with the new timepiece, the maison has done away with the day indication in favor of a moon phase indication, which thanks to the newly developed 2460 R31L movement, will not require the wearer’s intervention for 122 years once it’s been appropriately setup.
Although, the greatest boasting point with the new caliber is quite possibly that all of the watch’s complications — including the moon phase — are all adjustable via its crown.
Technical prowess aside, it has to be said that with the doing away of a second retrograde indication — in favor of the moon phase indication — does lend itself to a watch face of greater clarity.
The Patrimony moon phase and retrograde date will be offered in two variations: white gold and pink gold, with the same silvered opaline dial paired with complimenting gold batons and gold moon.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Movement — Caliber 2460 R31L developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin • Self-winding • 40 hours • 28,800bph / 4Hz • 275 components • 27 jewels
FUNCTIONS/INDICATIONS — Hours, minutes, retrograde date, precision moon phase, age of the moon
CASE —18k white gold and 18k pink gold • 42.5 mm diameter, 9.7 mm thick • 30 m water resistance
STRAP & BUCKLE — Black and dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales with 18K gold polished half Maltese cross-shaped buckle
Traditionnelle minute repeater tourbillon
The new addition to the Traditionnelle collection brings a new caliber, the 2755 TMR, to the Vacheron Constantin stable, which combines two of haute horology’s greatest pursuits into one seamless timepiece. The Traditionnelle minute repeater tourbillon, as the name suggests, bears a one-minute tourbillon regulator and is also a minute repeater.
In a show of its 261 years of watchmaking knowhow, the watch is a mastery of execution that pairs, again, the incredibly technical with the profoundly beautiful. A mastery, which is particularly obvious when someone specifically points out that the minute track on the watch’s face is, in fact, off-center. And this the watch manages to pull off without being remotely offensive to its overall symmetry. The beauty of the watch’s face, is thereafter, further enhanced by the exemplary guilloché work on its gold dial.
The Traditionnelle minute repeater tourbillon will be offered in a pink gold case, with a silvered opaline-colored dial, and the platinum cased version will come with an option for an opaline or slate-colored dial. The timepiece will be made available solely through Vacheron Constantin’s boutiques.
One last thing to note for interested collectors: the Traditionnelle minute repeater tourbillon will come with its own resonator of sound “La Musique du Temps”, which an owner can use to amplify the minute repeater’s sound and enhance the pleasure of listening to his/her new prized possession.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Movement — Caliber 2755 TMR developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin • manual-winding • 58 hours • 18,000bph / 2.5Hz • 471 components • 40 jewels
FUNCTIONS/INDICATIONS — Hours, minutes, minute repeater, tourbillon, small seconds on tourbillon cage, power reserve indicator (on the back of the watch)
CASE — 950 platinum and 18k 5N pink gold • 44 mm diameter, 12.2 mm thick
STRAP & BUCKLE — Blue/black and dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales with matching precious metal half Maltese cross-shaped buckle
