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Last Week in Watches: Moser Goes Off-Grid, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turns 30

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Last Week in Watches: Moser Goes Off-Grid, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turns 30

A digital watch for mechanical purists leads a week that also brings an ultra-thin perpetual calendar, a blue six-day tourbillon, a guilloché Freak and Merlin’s final transformation.

Moser & Cie. Off-Grid

 

Moser & Cie. Off-Grid

Moser & Cie. Off-Grid

 

Moser & Cie. has made a limited-edition racing digital watch before, designed for the Alpine Formula One team and crafted in a notably Moser way. The new 42.6mm Off-Grid model, however, makes a great deal of sense for the wider audience – featuring a skeletonized digital display complete with useful everyday complications, a small domed fumé dial and integrated rubber strap. The D10 caliber, developed with Sequent, handles all sorts of functions like GMT, split-seconds timing to 1/100th of a second, a perpetual calendar and moonphase, with up to 12 months of autonomy in time-only mode. Each version is limited to 1,000 pieces.

 

Tech Specs: H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid

Ref 6DI0-1202 (Blue); 6DI0-1205 (Black); limited to 1,000 pieces per version
Movement Caliber D10; up to 12 months of autonomy in time-display-only mode or six months with mixed use
Functions Hours and minutes; Off-Grid country selection; GMT; split-seconds chronograph accurate to 1/100th of a second; perpetual calendar and moonphase; sunrise and sunset times; alarm; timer; dictionary with 10 words in 21 languages
Case 42.6mm; steel with blue or black composite; water resistant to 120m
Dial Skeletonised digital display with a small domed Blackor fumé dial (Blue) or Red fumé dial (Black)
Strap Fully integrated white rubber (Blue) or black rubber (Black)
Price CHF 3,900 excluding VAT

 

Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784

 

Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784

Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784

 

Panerai has given its new tourbillon model a very blue and authentic Luminor setting. We’re looking at a 47mm Grade 5 titanium case framing the skeletonized P.2005/T, which has blue-finished titanium bridges and a tourbillon that makes a full rotation every 30 seconds on an axis perpendicular to the balance. The hand-wound caliber also brings a GMT traveler function and six days of power reserve from three barrels within. The watch has 100 meters of water resistance and comes with an additional rubber strap – it is a Luminor of course.

 

Tech Specs: Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784

Ref PAM01784
Movement Hand-wound Caliber P.2005/T; six-day power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes; GMT Traveler; 24-hour indication; power-reserve indication; 30-second tourbillon
Case 47mm; brushed Grade 5 titanium with polished titanium bezel; domed sapphire crystal; sapphire crystal and titanium caseback; water resistant to 100m
Dial Openworked display formed by blue titanium movement bridges; luminous Arabic numerals and markers; orange function hands
Strap Dark-blue alligator leather with titanium buckle; additional dark-blue rubber strap
Price Upon request

 

Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché]

 

Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché]

Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché]

For the new 99-piece limited edition Freak [ONE Guilloché], Ulysse Nardin applies a guilloche treatment straight onto the sand-toned rotating hour disc. The 44mm titanium watch houses the self-winding UN-240 which serves as both its engine and display, incorporating a flying carousel, DIAMonSIL escapement and 90 hours of power.

 

Tech Specs: Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché]

Ref 2403-500LE-4A-GUI/3A; limited to 99 pieces
Movement Self-winding Caliber UN-240; 90-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes; flying carousel
Case 44mm × 13.3mm; light-grey titanium; bidirectional time-setting bezel; water resistant to 30m
Dial Sand-toned rotating hour disc with diamond-pattern guilloché; flying carousel serving as the minute indicator; no conventional dial, hands or crown
Strap Integrated light-grey “ballistic”-textured rubber with titanium folding buckle
Price CHF 65,000

 

Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin

 

Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin

Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin

 

Roger Dubuis closes its Merlin story with a 28-piece limited edition work of art. This final chapter imagines the famous wizard taking the form of a white stag, with the image hand-engraved on the case middle of the 45mm pink-gold case – requiring around 70 hours of work. The twelve 6mm-tall knights, cast in pink gold, hand-sculpted, engraved then patinated surround a dial built from 57 blocks of glass, pink gold and Crystallium, evoking the Brocéliande forest. The watch is powered by the automatic RD821 supplying 48 hours of power, and carries the Poinçon de Genève.

 

Tech Specs: Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin

Ref RDDBEX1118; limited to 28 pieces
Movement Self-winding Caliber RD821; 48-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 45mm; 18K pink gold with hand-engraved case middle and sapphire crystal ring beneath the bezel; open caseback; water resistant to 30m
Dial Twelve approximately 6mm-tall pink-gold knights surrounding 57 blocks of glass, pink gold and Crystallium with green CVD treatments
Strap Calf leather with quick-release system
Price Upon request

 

Formex AirField

 

Formex AirField

Formex AirField in Desert Sand

 

Formex turns its field watch toward the pilot cockpit with the new AirField. The 40mm case is made from Grade 2 titanium that has been hardened to roughly 900 Vickers, measures 10.6mm thick, and still manages 150 meters of water resistance. The clean, finely grained dials add sword hands, a dot-and-triangle marker at 12 and an aircraft-shaped seconds counterweight, with Tarmac Grey, Jet Black, Horizon Blue and Desert Sand to choose from. Inside is the Sellita SW200-2 Power+ providing 65 hours of reserve.

 

Tech Specs: Formex AirField

Ref 0661.1.6526.877 (Jet Black); 0661.1.6536.844 (Horizon Blue); 0661.1.6546.822 (Tarmac Grey); 0661.1.6556.899 (Desert Sand)
Movement Self-winding Sellita SW200-2 Power+; 65-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds; date
Case 40mm × 10.6mm; 46.6mm lug-to-lug; hard-coated Grade 2 titanium with approximately 900 Vickers surface hardness; screw-down crown; water resistant to 150m
Dial Finely grained Jet Black, Horizon Blue, Tarmac Grey or Desert Sand; recessed Arabic numerals, sword-shaped hands and aircraft-shaped seconds counterweight; Super-LumiNova
Strap Quick-release elastic nylon and Velcro, or Italian calf leather with carbon-fibre composite folding clasp and 7mm micro-adjustment
Price From CHF 830

 

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary

 

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary

 

Vacheron Constantin marks the Overseas’ 30th anniversary with a 200-piece Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 18K white gold. With its 41.5mm case measuring just 8.1mm thick, the new azure lacquered dial and tone-on-tone moonphase do all the talking. The self-winding caliber 1120QP runs for 40 hours and keeps the calendar correct until 2100. As with the current generation of the Overseas, the white-gold bracelet watch is supplied with both white and blue-denim rubber straps, completing the polished birthday package.

 

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Ref 4300V/220G-H119; limited to 200 pieces
Movement Self-winding Caliber 1120 QP; 40-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes; perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap-year indications; moonphase
Case 41.5mm × 8.1mm; 18K white gold; transparent sapphire crystal caseback; antimagnetic construction; water resistant to 50m
Dial Azure lacquered with sunburst satin-finished centre, velvet-finished minute track and snailed counters; tone-on-tone white-gold moonphase disc; white-gold hands and markers with blue Super-LumiNova
Strap Interchangeable 18K white-gold bracelet with triple-folding clasp; additional white and blue-denim rubber straps with white-gold pin buckle
Price Upon request

 

Breguet Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527

 

Breguet Marine 5517

Breguet Marine 5517 in titanium with gradient blue dial

 

Breguet has just cleaned up its two core Marine models with gold, hand guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” dials, dates moved to 6 o’clock, and an applied Breguet signature at 12 on each. The 40mm Marine 5517 keeps things simple as a three-hander, with the automatic caliber 777A offering 55 hours of power. The 42.3mm Marine Chronographe 5527, on the other hand, adds a flyback chronograph and runs on the automatic caliber 582QA with 48 hours of autonomy. Both are offered in white gold, rose gold or titanium and remain water resistant to 100 meters.

 

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 in rose-gold with gradient blue dial

 

Tech Specs: Breguet Marine 5517

Ref 5517BB/YA/5ZU and 5517BB/YA/BZ0 (white gold); 5517BR/99/5ZU and 5517BR/99/RZ0 (rose gold); 5517TI/Y9/5ZU and 5517TI/Y9/TZ0 (titanium)
Movement Self-winding Caliber 777A; 55-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds; date
Case 40mm × 11.5mm; 18K white gold, 18K rose gold or titanium; screw-down crown and sapphire crystal caseback; water resistant to 100m
Dial Solid gold with hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” motif; ice blue, black or graduated blue; date at 6 o’clock and applied Breguet signature at 12
Strap Rubber strap with folding clasp or matching white-gold, rose-gold or titanium bracelet
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527

Ref 5527BB/YA/5WV and 5527BB/YA/BW0 (white gold); 5527BR/Y9/5WV and 5527BR/Y9/RW0 (rose gold); 5527TI/GA/5WV and 5527TI/GA/TW0 (titanium)
Movement Self-winding Caliber 582QA; 48-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes; small seconds; date; flyback chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter
Case 42.3mm × 13.9mm; 18K white gold, 18K rose gold or titanium; screw-down crown and sapphire crystal caseback; water resistant to 100m
Dial Solid gold with hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” motif; graduated blue on the gold models or graduated grey on the titanium model; date at 6 o’clock and applied Breguet signature at 12
Strap Rubber strap with folding clasp or matching white-gold, rose-gold or titanium bracelet
Price Upon request

 

Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback

 

Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback

 

Longines gives its two Spirit Pilot models the blue treatment, with matte blue dials and either steel bracelets or color-matched rubber straps. The time-only Spirit Pilot stays at 39mm and uses the COSC-certified automatic caliber L888.4, offering 72 hours of power. The 39.5mm Spirit Pilot Flyback adds a bidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert and the COSC-certified hand-wound caliber L792.4, pairing its flyback chronograph with 68 hours of reserve.

 

Tech Specs: Longines Spirit Pilot

Ref L3.809.4.93.6 (steel bracelet); L3.809.4.93.9 (rubber strap)
Movement Self-winding Caliber L888.4; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds
Case 39mm × 11.5mm; 47.2mm lug-to-lug; stainless steel; screw-in crown and screw-down caseback; water resistant to 100m
Dial Matte blue with applied rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and polished hands; Swiss Super-LumiNova
Strap Stainless-steel bracelet with double-security folding clasp and micro-adjustment, or interchangeable blue rubber with pin buckle
Price CHF 2,500 on bracelet; CHF 2,200 on rubber strap

 

Tech Specs: Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback

Ref L3.721.4.93.6 (steel bracelet); L3.721.4.93.9 (rubber strap)
Movement Hand-wound Caliber L792.4; 68-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes; small seconds; flyback chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter
Case 39.5mm × 13.4mm; 47.4mm lug-to-lug; stainless steel; bidirectional bezel with blue ceramic insert; sapphire crystal caseback; water resistant to 100m
Dial Matte blue with applied rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and polished hands; small seconds at 9 o’clock and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock; Swiss Super-LumiNova
Strap Stainless-steel bracelet with double-security folding clasp and micro-adjustment, or interchangeable blue rubber with pin buckle
Price CHF 4,600 on bracelet; CHF 4,300 on rubber strap

 

Eternity by Tiffany Featuring a Venini Glass Dial

 

 

Eternity by Tiffany Featuring a Venini Glass Dial

Eternity by Tiffany Featuring a Venini Glass Dial

 

Tiffany takes the Eternity watch to Murano through a collaboration with Venini, the Venetian glass house founded in 1921. Each watch in this limited series gets a one-of-a-kind glass dial, with its swirling blues tastefully punctuated by 12 hand-set aquamarines. A full pavé diamond bracelet totaling nearly 5 carats adds to its dainty, high-jewelry personality.

 

Tech Specs: Eternity by Tiffany Watch Featuring a Venini Glass Dial

Ref 77158642; limited to five pieces
Movement Swiss quartz movement
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 28mm; cushion-shaped 18K white gold set with 44 round brilliant diamonds totaling approximately 0.86 carats; crown set with one approximately 0.19-carat diamond
Dial One-of-a-kind Venini glass crafted in Murano; 12 hand-set aquamarine hour markers in different cuts totaling approximately 0.41 carats
Strap Full-pavé 18K white-gold bracelet set with 455 round brilliant diamonds totaling more than 4.42 carats
Price Upon request

 

Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable

 

Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable

Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable

 

The frog is back, this time hopping in either Turquoise or Brown. Both colorways of the 178-piece Unfrogettables use a 40mm Grade 5 titanium case with its crown sitting at 12 o’clock. The horizontal regulator uses the eyes to display the hour and running seconds, with the minutes indicated by a central hand. It’s powered by the automatic Sellita SW266-1 caliber and provides 38 hours of autonomy. Each watch also comes supplied with a Himeji Kurozan leather strap finished with Urushi-lacquer.

 

Tech Specs: Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable

Ref 85340AA03.BVA192 (Turquoise); 85340AA04.BVA193 (Brown); limited to 178 pieces per version
Movement Self-winding Sellita SW266-1; minimum 38-hour power reserve
Functions Regulator display with hours at 9 o’clock, seconds at 3 o’clock and centrally displayed minutes
Case 40mm; satin-finished and polished Grade 5 titanium; crown at 12 o’clock; sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback; water resistant to 50m
Dial Turquoise or brown frog-face regulator with rotating eye displays and central arrow-shaped minute hand; Super-LumiNova accents
Strap Black Himeji Kurozan calf leather, naturally tanned and finished with Urushi lacquer; quick-release bars and Grade 5 titanium pin buckle; violet stitching and lining on the Turquoise version
Price CHF 4,500 excluding tax each