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Last Week In Watches: Rolex Revives the Padellone, Hublot Goes Full Koons
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Reviews
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Up Close: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince
Reviews
Up Close: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince
Editorial
A Closer Look: Rolex Perpetual Padellone
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A Closer Look: Rolex Perpetual Padellone
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@formexwatch takes the rugged architecture of its Field collection into aviation with the new AirField, a 40mm titanium watch designed around legibility, low weight and everyday durability.
Its cockpit influence appears through broad sword-shaped hands, recessed Arabic numerals individually hand-filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9 and a triangle-and-dot orientation marker at 12 o’clock. A slender seconds hand adds a quieter aviation reference through its aircraft-shaped counterweight.
The finely grained stamped dial is framed by a sloped chapter ring, while Formex’s beveled date window uses a colour-matched wheel. The AirField is available in four configurations: Desert Sand, Horizon Blue, Jet Black and Tarmac Grey.
Its titanium watch head weighs just 54g and receives a hardening treatment that raises its surface hardness to approximately 900 Vickers — around five times that of conventional stainless steel. A screw-down crown, 150m water resistance and a caseback depicting a radial aircraft engine reinforce its tool-watch credentials.
Inside, the updated Sellita SW200-2 Power+ increases the power reserve from 41 to 65 hours. Strap options include a lightweight, water-resistant nylon strap with Velcro closure or leather paired with Formex’s carbon-fibre deployant clasp, which offers 7mm of gradual fine adjustment.
@roger_dubuis Roger Dubuis has never been shy about a little theatre, and the Excalibur The Metamorph Merlin leans fully into it.
From its forest-green dial built up in faceted hexagons to the miniature Knights of the Round Table standing guard around the hours, this is a watch that treats myth not as reference, but as material. The storytelling continues across the pink gold case, where Merlin and scenes of battle are engraved directly into the flanks, giving the piece a sense of narrative depth that feels entirely in keeping with the maison’s flair for spectacle. High watchmaking, yes — but also a little fantasy, rendered with conviction.
#RogerDubuis #Excalibur #TheMetamorphMerlin #KnightsOfTheRoundTable #HauteHorlogerie #RevolutionWatch
For 25 years, @ulyssenardin’s Freak has been defined by unconventional mechanics. The new Freak [ONE Guilloché] brings traditional decorative craft to that architecture.
The 2023 GPHG-winning Freak [ONE] now features a sand-toned hour disc carrying a diamond-patterned “Maille” motif. Its original pattern is created by hand before being transferred onto the production discs through a traditional stamping process described by the brand as flinqué.
The Freak retains its signature absence of a conventional dial, hands and crown. Its decorated hour disc completes one rotation every 12 hours to indicate the hours, while the orbital flying carousel circles the dial once every 60 minutes to display the minutes. Time is set by releasing the safety lock at 6 o’clock and rotating the bidirectional bezel.
Powering the display is the self-winding UN-240 calibre. Ulysse Nardin says around 95% of its 229 components are designed for motion, while the Grinder winding system helps deliver a 90-hour power reserve. The movement also incorporates a silicon balance wheel and hairspring, along with a diamond-coated silicon DIAMonSIL escapement. The Freak [ONE Guilloché] is housed in a 44mm light-grey titanium case with a subtly redesigned bezel and an integrated grey rubber strap. Water resistance is 30m and production is limited to 99 pieces.
More than three decades of @rolex collecting are heading to auction. @phillipswatches has announced Stopping Time, The Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex Chronographs: Part I, comprising 16 watches to be offered at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7 and 8 November 2026.
Based in Rome, collector, publisher, author and curator Pucci Papaleo has spent more than 30 years studying and documenting Rolex chronographs. His approximately 70-watch collection traces their development from the 1930s through the manual-winding Daytona era, with rarity, originality and exceptional condition running throughout this first selection.
The early highlights include a circa-1940 steel Ref. 3525 “Bariletto,” Rolex’s first chronograph wristwatch housed in an Oyster case. Its dial is signed by Sydney retailer Prouds and, according to current research, it is the only Ref. 3525 known to the market with that signature. A circa-1941 Ref. 3335 follows with a substantial 37mm pink-gold case, pink dial and the signature of Naples retailer Monetti. Both are estimated at CHF 250,000–500,000.
Two watches carry estimates in excess of CHF 1 million. The most probably unique Ref. 3830 places a champagne, Verga-signed dial inside an unconventional 30mm square case in 18K yellow gold. Meanwhile, the possibly unique Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” combines a creamy-yellow dial with a 14K yellow-gold case and, to the best of Phillips’ knowledge, is the only known 14K example from the 2.3-million serial range. Also included is a circa-1969 steel Ref. 6239 with the rare black “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, distinguished by azurage covering only part of each subsidiary register. It carries an estimate of CHF 250,000–500,000.
@panerai brings its distinctive tourbillon architecture into full view with the new Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784.
Inside the 47mm Grade 5 titanium case, the blue skeletonised P.2005/T calibre becomes the visual core of the watch. Its titanium bridges and plates expose the gear train, three spring barrels and tourbillon cage, while the numerals and indexes are mounted around the rehaut.
Panerai’s patented tourbillon cage completes one rotation every 30 seconds around an axis perpendicular to that of the balance. Three barrels connected in series supply a six-day, or 144-hour, power reserve, with the remaining energy shown through an angular indicator.
The calibre also incorporates a Traveller GMT function, allowing the local hour hand to jump forward or backward in one-hour steps without affecting home time. A 12-hour GMT hand and AM/PM indication track the second time zone, while orange accents distinguish the GMT and power-reserve displays. It is water-resistant to 100m and introduces a domed sapphire crystal to a Panerai tourbillon for the first time. The PAM01784 is delivered on a blue alligator strap with an additional blue rubber strap.
The @artyawatch ArtyA Complexity was already a remarkable piece of mechanical watchmaking. Now, the Complexity Métiers d’Art brings an entirely new level of craftsmanship to its double Cônillon architecture.
In Geneva, @constant.kw meets with ArtyA founder Yvan Arpa and his son Stan to explore the latest evolution of the watch, which places two inclined Cônillon tourbillons at 12 and six o’clock, connected by a differential that mechanically averages their rates.
The new edition retains that extraordinary mechanical arrangement while introducing a fully reworked dial and movement. Hand engraving, hammering, shot blasting and polished bevels create an intricate play of light and texture, all visible through the sculptural sapphire case and its two optical domes.
Constant also takes a closer look at the 35mm Luminity Wavy Micro-Rotor and the interchangeable coloured O-rings that bring a fresh dimension of personalisation to ArtyA’s sapphire watches.
In our full video, Constant, Yvan and Stan explore the technical ambition, craftsmanship and family spirit behind @artyawatch.
Full video on our YouTube channel. Link in bio.
#ArtyA #Complexity #MetiersdArt #Tourbillon #IndependentWatchmaking #ConstantKwong #RevolutionWatch
Advance a conventional perpetual calendar by one day too many and correcting the mistake can become a lengthy affair. With the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince, @iwcwatches lets you simply turn it back.
The ProSet mechanism keeps the date, weekday, month, four-digit year and moon phase synchronised while allowing the calendar to be adjusted forwards or backwards in precise daily steps from a single crown position. There are no separate correctors or complicated setting sequences to navigate.
Making this possible required IWC to completely redesign its perpetual calendar module. The traditional grand-lever construction has been replaced by a gear-based architecture, with a multilayer programme wheel and flexible fingers accounting for the different month lengths and leap-year cycle. Many of its unusually complex components are produced using the high-precision LIGA process.
Ref. IW339601 houses this new mechanism inside a 42.9mm white zirconium oxide ceramic case, paired with the deep blue gradient dial associated with IWC’s Le Petit Prince editions. The familiar four-subdial calendar layout remains, although the running seconds have moved to the centre for a cleaner, more technical display.
Inside is the automatic calibre 82665, running at 4Hz with Pellaton winding and a 60-hour power reserve. Its re-engineered Double Moon display deviates by just one day every 1,040 years, while a gold-plated medallion depicting the Little Prince on his asteroid decorates the rotor.
Head to RevolutionWatch.com for the full story (link in bio).
@moserwatches has already ventured into digital territory once before. The Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition was developed for the Formula 1 paddock; now, the Off-Grid takes that analogue-digital thinking into everyday life, replacing race-specific alerts with travel tools and familiar watch complications.
Its 42.6mm × 14.4mm case carries the rounded architecture of the Streamliner and combines steel with either blue or black composite. Beneath the slightly domed sapphire crystal, a skeletonised dial frames a digital display at six o’clock, while a small domed Blackor fumé or Red fumé dial at 12 o’clock bears the Moser logo in transparent lacquer. Super-LumiNova ceramic indices and luminous hands provide the analogue time display.
Developed with SEQUENT, Calibre D10 comprises 186 components, operates at 32,768 vibrations per second and offers a stated accuracy of +/- 0.3 seconds per day. It connects to iOS and Android devices through Bluetooth Low Energy 5.3, while Moser quotes 12 months of battery life in time-only mode.
Its digital functions include GMT with a country selector, a split-seconds chronograph displaying 1/100th of a second, a perpetual calendar, perpetual moon phase, sunrise and sunset times, vibrating alarm and timer. The dedicated Off-Grid button also provides quick country selection and a dictionary containing 10 words in 21 languages, without the usual stream of smartwatch notifications.
The Off-Grid Blue pairs its blue composite case with a Blackor fumé dial and white rubber strap, while the Off-Grid Black combines black composite, a Red fumé dial and black rubber. Each is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at CHF 3,900 excluding VAT. Existing Moser clients receive early access from September 21 to 23, before availability opens more widely on September 24. Orders close on October 5, 2026, exclusively through Moser boutiques and their website.
The discovery of @rolex’s patent filing for an instantaneous annual calendar has made the wait for this year’s launches rather more interesting, but even with the advance notice, the return of the Padellone lands hard. Introduced in 1949, the ref. 8171 was affectionately dubbed the Padellone, which translates to “large frying pan” in Italian. It offered a complete calendar in its simplest form, shortly before the professional watches began arriving in quick succession and established the identity we know today. The brief excursion into complete calendars left it as something of an outlier, and over the decades the ref. 8171 and the oyster-cased ref. 6062 became objects of fascination for collectors. Given that it is a complication thoroughly of its epoch, and one that was not unique to the company, there was little reason to expect a second act.
But now it has one, and Rolex has put some serious engineering behind it. The calendar has been upgraded to an instantaneous annual calendar, built on the highly innovative, high-frequency movement launched in the Land-Dweller.
We take a closer look on RevolutionWatch.com (link in bio)
Revolution USA September 2026 is out now.
This issue is led by @glashuetteoriginal and the new 70s, which appears on the cover in an original artwork created for Revolution by collector and artist @moebiusart Michael Moebius. Inside, we look at the new collection, Moebius`s long connection to the brand and the history of Glashütte that sits behind the 70s line.
George Daniels would have been 100 this year, and we mark the anniversary with a major section on independent watchmaking. We look at his life, his watches and the enormous influence he had on the generations that followed. We revisit François-Paul Journe @fpjourneofficial, philippe_dufour_officiel Philippe Dufour, @franckmuller_geneve Franck Muller, @danielrothofficial Daniel Roth, @derekprattwatches Derek Pratt and @de_bethune Denis Flageollet, alongside others who helped define independent watchmaking over the past four decades. We also turn to the latest generation of independents, the young watchmakers and new brands now making their mark, and consider how different their world is from the one Daniels knew when he was starting out.
Elsewhere, @jeffkoons discusses his new collaboration with @hublot. The new @blancpain1735 Lady B gives us the opportunity to revisit Betty Fiechter, who took control of Blancpain in 1933 and remains one of the most important, yet still shockingly under-celebrated, figures in watchmaking history.
Alongside new launches, interviews and history, this edition offers a broad view of the people, watches and ideas that have shaped independent watchmaking and continue to define it today.
Available now at revolutionwatch.com. Link in bio.
#RevolutionWatch
Last week’s biggest launches included the @rolex Perpetual Padellone, which takes its name and broad calendar layout from the Ref. 8171, now updated with an instantaneous annual calendar, meteorite moons and caliber 7190. @blancpain1735 also looked back, marking 70 years since the Ladybird Bullet with the tiny 19mm Lady B, while @chopard returned to the original 1976 Happy Diamonds design for the collection’s 50th birthday.
@hublot’s Jeff Koons collaboration went in two very different directions. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog transforms the artist’s famous sculpture into three playful 42mm watches, while the 30-piece MP-14 Origin houses Hublot’s first automatic central tourbillon. @audemarspiguet, meanwhile, paired white ceramic with pink mother-of-pearl for the 38mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph “Serena Williams”, limited to 500 pieces.
Elsewhere, @glashuetteoriginal gave the Seventies its first full redesign in 15 years and renamed it simply “70s”. @iwcwatches celebrated 50 years of Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL with a 1,150-piece anniversary edition, while @girardperregaux and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team introduced time-only and chronograph versions of the Laureato.
Closing out the week, @venezianico_official unveiled the 48g Redentore Levius, combining Grade 5 titanium with an Italian-made movement and a Zefiro guilloché dial cut by hand on an 1850 rose engine.
Swipe through for last week’s biggest launches, and read the full stories now on RevolutionWatch.com (link in bio)
@baumeetmercier gives the Clifton a cooler, more expressive appearance with two new steel references built around ice-blue, stamped guilloché-patterned dials.
The Clifton Baumatic 39mm Ref. M0A10870 offers the clearest view of the geometric texture, complemented by a black central crosshair, rhodium-plated indexes and alpha hands. Its polished and satin-finished case measures 39mm × 11.22mm and is paired with an interchangeable three-row steel bracelet. Inside, the automatic BM13-1975A Baumatic caliber delivers a five-day power reserve.
The Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar Ref. M0A10872 places the complication in a newly reduced 40mm steel case. Its display accounts for the day, date, month, leap-year cycle and phases of the moon, requiring no calendar correction until 2100 if the watch remains running and correctly set. The automatic BM13-1975AC2 also provides a five-day reserve. Both watches are water resistant to 50 metres and offered in limited production.
Read the full story on RevolutionWatch.com (link in bio).