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From hand-painted numerals to miniature knights, the craft behind the watches took centre stage at Siam Paragon @bangkokwatchweek Symposiums on 24 September.
@vacheronconstantin’s Style and Heritage Expert @morgan_maillard_vc connected its archives with its latest creations, exploring the platinum Overseas Ultra-Thin as well as the maison’s rich tradition of métiers d’art, including the stone marquetry and miniature origami showcased in its “One of Not Many Crafts Programme.” There was a surprise on his wrist, too: a limited edition blue-dial Overseas Perpetual Calendar ultra-Thin, unveiled during the session as its global launch went live, celebrating the collection’s 30th anniversary.
At @franckmuller_geneve, CEO @nickrudaz discussed how manufacturing independence gives the brand the freedom to create, before a live dial-painting demonstration brought that craftsmanship into focus. The expressive numerals may look playful, but painting them demands precise coordination, concentration and a remarkably steady hand, as Thai celebrities @lekteeradetch and @bow_maylada discovered.
The last symposium for the day turned the spotlight on @roger_dubuis, where Chief Marketing Officer Jean-Philippe Bonneau and @thecarsonchan traced its founder’s legacy through complicated watchmaking, the Geneva Seal and a taste for the unconventional. From double retrograde displays to motorsport collaborations and the miniature artistry of Knights of the Round Table and the new Excalibur The Metamorph Merlin unveiled just earlier in the week, the conversation explored the many forms that identity takes.
@longines expands its aviation-inspired Spirit collection with four new blue references for 2026, divided between the three-hand Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback chronograph.
Introduced in 2025, the Spirit Pilot now receives a matt blue dial with applied Arabic numerals, silvered hands and Super-LumiNova. Its stainless-steel case measures 39mm × 11.5mm and is fitted with a screw-in crown and screw-down case back, helping provide 100 metres of water resistance. Inside is the Longines-exclusive Calibre L888.4. The COSC-certified automatic movement uses a silicon balance spring, offers magnetic resistance up to 10 times greater than the ISO 764 standard and delivers a power reserve of up to 72 hours.
The Spirit Pilot Flyback measures 39.5mm × 13.4mm and pairs its blue dial with a bidirectional rotating bezel containing a blue ceramic countdown insert. Its chronograph display comprises a central seconds hand, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire case back, the hand-wound Calibre L792.4 combines a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a flyback function and up to 68 hours of power. It is also COSC certified and recalls Longines’ early work with the complication, which led to a flyback chronograph patent filing in 1935.
Both models are offered on a stainless-steel bracelet with a micro-adjustable folding clasp or a Swiss-made blue rubber strap.
@montresbreguet refreshes the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 with hand-guilloché gold dials, new colour combinations and date displays repositioned at 6 o’clock.
The collection’s maritime identity dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. That history is reflected in the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché motif, inspired by the contours of Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis, as well as the movement of waves.
The three-hand Marine 5517 measures 40mm across and arrives in three combinations: white gold with ice blue, rose gold with black, and titanium with gradient blue. Inside, the self-winding Calibre 777A offers a 55-hour power reserve.
Measuring 42.3mm, the Marine Chronographe 5527 adds a flyback chronograph with central seconds, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Its Calibre 582QA provides 48 hours of power. The white- and rose-gold models receive blue-gradient dials, while the titanium edition is paired with grey.
Both movements operate at 4Hz, incorporate silicon components and feature an 18K gold oscillating weight inspired by a ship’s rudder. Each model is water-resistant to 100 metres and available on patterned rubber or a matching metal bracelet.
@vacheronconstantin marks 30 years of the Overseas with a new Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, pairing an azure dial with an 18K white gold case for the first time.
Introduced in 1996 as the successor to the 222, the Overseas has evolved across three generations while retaining its travel-focused character. Its current form arrived in 2016, bringing more fluid lines, collection-specific movements and a tool-free interchangeable strap system.
For this 200-piece anniversary edition, the lacquered dial adopts a lighter, less saturated azure than the collection’s familiar blue. Its tone shifts with the light, while the matching moonphase display and white-gold hands and markers maintain a cohesive calendar layout.
Inside is the self-winding Calibre 1120 QP/1, measuring just 4.05mm thick. This allows the 41.5mm white gold case to retain an ultra-slim profile of 8.1mm while displaying the date, day, month, leap year and moon phases. The perpetual calendar automatically accounts for different month lengths and leap years, requiring no correction until 2100. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the Geneva Seal-certified caliber offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve. Its finishing includes Côtes de Genève, bevelled bridges and perlage, completed by a 22K gold oscillating weight engraved with a compass rose.
The watch is delivered on an integrated white gold bracelet with a micro-adjustable clasp, accompanied by white and denim-blue rubber straps. All three options can be exchanged without tools, while water resistance is rated to 50m.
From the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour to New Bahru: @audemarspiguet is bringing its padel partnership to Singapore for the first time.
Earlier this year, the watchmaker became the tour’s Official Timekeeper. Its three-day Padel Pop-Up Club puts the sport’s social side in focus, welcoming newcomers and experienced players for friendly sessions in New Bahru’s School Hall. A courtside lounge offers a place to gather off court.
The pop-up is open to the public from 25 to 27 September. Bookings for court play and the lounge are available through AP’s online booking links. Food and drinks will be available for purchase daily from 12pm to 8pm, with last orders at 7.30pm.
@mbandf has never needed much encouragement to transform a childhood memory into a mechanical object. For the 15th anniversary of M.A.D.Gallery, it has joined forces with @carandache to create the GorillaSharpener, a fully functional desk sculpture limited to 300 pieces.
The project begins with Caran d’Ache’s familiar Sharpening Machine, a fixture of Swiss classrooms since 1933. MB&F creative designer Maximilian Maertens has lifted it onto muscular stainless-steel and cast-iron limbs, giving the object a forward-leaning, knuckle-walking stance that appears to hover above the desk.
Finished in Alpine Frost blue, the GorillaSharpener combines zinc alloy, steel and chrome-plated mechanical components. It accepts round or hexagonal pencils measuring between 4mm and 10mm in diameter and uses an interchangeable cutter. Each piece arrives in a special case with an instruction booklet, securing clamp and Caran d’Ache wooden pencils in packaging featuring artwork by Maxime Schertenleib.
The GorillaSharpener follows the rocket-inspired Astrograph writing instrument from 2016 and the DinoSharpener from 2024. Maertens imagined the new creature as a King Kong counterpart to the earlier dinosaur’s Godzilla character.
Released on World Gorilla Day, the project also marks MB&F’s partnership with the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund through the symbolic adoption of Rwanda’s historic Pablo mountain gorilla group. MB&F’s support contributes to the organisation’s ongoing protection and study of endangered mountain gorillas. The GorillaSharpener is available exclusively through the MB&F eShop, M.A.D.Galleries, MB&F LABs and the MB&F Lounge in New York.
From enduring icons to 360-lifestyle marketing and ambitious comebacks, Day Two of symposiums at this year’s @bangkokwatchweek explored how watchmaking builds on its past and where it goes next.
FHH’s “The Life of an Icon” kicked off the conversation with @vacheronconstantin’s Style and Heritage Expert Morgan Maillard and @franckmuller_geneve CEO Nicolas Rudaz. Moderated by Clio Godrèche, the discussion zeroed in on what keeps a design relevant through the generations and the delicate balancing act between preserving a watch’s identity and giving collectors something new in examples such as the American 1921 and Crazy Hours.
Up next was a fireside chat led by our friend from Hodinkee Tan Tan with Georges Kern. The House of Brands CEO spoke about building a community and a watch brand that extends well beyond the wrist, widening the lens considerably. His plans include the @breitling social club in Williamsburg, New York, announced a few weeks back with the Breitling Miles Davis tribute and slated for 2027. There is also to be a Breitling Residences in Miami, a real estate concept in the works that’s targeted for completion in 2030. Sister brand @galletwatch got a shout-out from Kern as well as he discussed the revival of the 200-year-old brand first founded in 1826.
Revival is the order of the day, or so it seems. @universalgeneve took centre stage in a snazzy presentation by Kern and his team featuring the brand’s signature collections — the Polerouter, Compax and reversible Cabriolet, alongside watches for women and bespoke creations. Micro-rotor movements, stone dials and couture-inspired details make up a return shaped by both its archives and fresh creative ambition.
Three conversations with plenty for collectors and watch lovers to think about, and plenty to look forward to. Stay tuned for more updates on the ground from Bangkok.
@formexwatch takes the rugged architecture of its Field collection into aviation with the new AirField, a 40mm titanium watch designed around legibility, low weight and everyday durability.
Its cockpit influence appears through broad sword-shaped hands, recessed Arabic numerals individually hand-filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9 and a triangle-and-dot orientation marker at 12 o’clock. A slender seconds hand adds a quieter aviation reference through its aircraft-shaped counterweight.
The finely grained stamped dial is framed by a sloped chapter ring, while Formex’s beveled date window uses a colour-matched wheel. The AirField is available in four configurations: Desert Sand, Horizon Blue, Jet Black and Tarmac Grey.
Its titanium watch head weighs just 54g and receives a hardening treatment that raises its surface hardness to approximately 900 Vickers — around five times that of conventional stainless steel. A screw-down crown, 150m water resistance and a caseback depicting a radial aircraft engine reinforce its tool-watch credentials.
Inside, the updated Sellita SW200-2 Power+ increases the power reserve from 41 to 65 hours. Strap options include a lightweight, water-resistant nylon strap with Velcro closure or leather paired with Formex’s carbon-fibre deployant clasp, which offers 7mm of gradual fine adjustment.
@roger_dubuis Roger Dubuis has never been shy about a little theatre, and the Excalibur The Metamorph Merlin leans fully into it.
From its forest-green dial built up in faceted hexagons to the miniature Knights of the Round Table standing guard around the hours, this is a watch that treats myth not as reference, but as material. The storytelling continues across the pink gold case, where Merlin and scenes of battle are engraved directly into the flanks, giving the piece a sense of narrative depth that feels entirely in keeping with the maison’s flair for spectacle. High watchmaking, yes — but also a little fantasy, rendered with conviction.
#RogerDubuis #Excalibur #TheMetamorphMerlin #KnightsOfTheRoundTable #HauteHorlogerie #RevolutionWatch
For 25 years, @ulyssenardin’s Freak has been defined by unconventional mechanics. The new Freak [ONE Guilloché] brings traditional decorative craft to that architecture.
The 2023 GPHG-winning Freak [ONE] now features a sand-toned hour disc carrying a diamond-patterned “Maille” motif. Its original pattern is created by hand before being transferred onto the production discs through a traditional stamping process described by the brand as flinqué.
The Freak retains its signature absence of a conventional dial, hands and crown. Its decorated hour disc completes one rotation every 12 hours to indicate the hours, while the orbital flying carousel circles the dial once every 60 minutes to display the minutes. Time is set by releasing the safety lock at 6 o’clock and rotating the bidirectional bezel.
Powering the display is the self-winding UN-240 calibre. Ulysse Nardin says around 95% of its 229 components are designed for motion, while the Grinder winding system helps deliver a 90-hour power reserve. The movement also incorporates a silicon balance wheel and hairspring, along with a diamond-coated silicon DIAMonSIL escapement. The Freak [ONE Guilloché] is housed in a 44mm light-grey titanium case with a subtly redesigned bezel and an integrated grey rubber strap. Water resistance is 30m and production is limited to 99 pieces.
More than three decades of @rolex collecting are heading to auction. @phillipswatches has announced Stopping Time, The Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex Chronographs: Part I, comprising 16 watches to be offered at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7 and 8 November 2026.
Based in Rome, collector, publisher, author and curator Pucci Papaleo has spent more than 30 years studying and documenting Rolex chronographs. His approximately 70-watch collection traces their development from the 1930s through the manual-winding Daytona era, with rarity, originality and exceptional condition running throughout this first selection.
The early highlights include a circa-1940 steel Ref. 3525 “Bariletto,” Rolex’s first chronograph wristwatch housed in an Oyster case. Its dial is signed by Sydney retailer Prouds and, according to current research, it is the only Ref. 3525 known to the market with that signature. A circa-1941 Ref. 3335 follows with a substantial 37mm pink-gold case, pink dial and the signature of Naples retailer Monetti. Both are estimated at CHF 250,000–500,000.
Two watches carry estimates in excess of CHF 1 million. The most probably unique Ref. 3830 places a champagne, Verga-signed dial inside an unconventional 30mm square case in 18K yellow gold. Meanwhile, the possibly unique Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” combines a creamy-yellow dial with a 14K yellow-gold case and, to the best of Phillips’ knowledge, is the only known 14K example from the 2.3-million serial range. Also included is a circa-1969 steel Ref. 6239 with the rare black “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, distinguished by azurage covering only part of each subsidiary register. It carries an estimate of CHF 250,000–500,000.
@panerai brings its distinctive tourbillon architecture into full view with the new Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784.
Inside the 47mm Grade 5 titanium case, the blue skeletonised P.2005/T calibre becomes the visual core of the watch. Its titanium bridges and plates expose the gear train, three spring barrels and tourbillon cage, while the numerals and indexes are mounted around the rehaut.
Panerai’s patented tourbillon cage completes one rotation every 30 seconds around an axis perpendicular to that of the balance. Three barrels connected in series supply a six-day, or 144-hour, power reserve, with the remaining energy shown through an angular indicator.
The calibre also incorporates a Traveller GMT function, allowing the local hour hand to jump forward or backward in one-hour steps without affecting home time. A 12-hour GMT hand and AM/PM indication track the second time zone, while orange accents distinguish the GMT and power-reserve displays. It is water-resistant to 100m and introduces a domed sapphire crystal to a Panerai tourbillon for the first time. The PAM01784 is delivered on a blue alligator strap with an additional blue rubber strap.