Patek Philippe Introduces Its First Complicated Quartz Wristwatch: the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Ref. 5269/200R

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is a relatively late comer to the realms of the elegant sports-chic wristwatch, having been introduced a whole 21 years after its predecessor, one of two Genta-designed pieces that dominate the genre, the hallowed, Nautilus. But in the near quarter of a century of its existence, Patek has built the Aquanaut in a fully fleshed out collection that clearly holds its own ground. Incidentally, the Aquanaut also holds Patek’s most affordable mechanical wristwatch offering in the present catalog, in the form of the time-only reference 5167A in stainless-steel, fitted on the signature composite black strap.

The Aquanaut's family portrait as illustrated by Patek Philippe on the occasion of the watch's 20th anniversary
The Aquanaut's family portrait as illustrated by Patek Philippe on the occasion of the watch's 20th anniversary
2018: The Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A-001
2018: The Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A-001
2019: The Aquanaut Jumbo in Khaki Green ref. 5168G
2019: The Aquanaut Jumbo in Khaki Green ref. 5168G

Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R

Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R
Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R

Patek Philippe has already had several landmark moments in 2021, with the end of series sunburst olive green dial 5711 and the 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar. The 5269/200R is possibly the latest addition to this list, but in a very different manner. Because with the 5269/200R the maison is introducing its first quartz caliber loaded with a complication, in that the all new E 23-250 S FUS 24H boasts Patek’s Travel Time complication. The movement takes on an existing quartz base and adds to it the Travel Time complication all adjustable via the crown. In order this to be possible Patek has reworked the Travel Time mechanism to be controlled by the clutch-pinion that activates hand-setting, therein, doing away with the need for the pushers in the mechanical Travel Time watches. 

The E 23-250 S FUS 24H does, however, present a more simplified variation of the Travel Time complication. It retains the two central hour hands, which include the skeleton hand for home time and the solid, lume filled for local time. Pulling the crown out to its initial stop, you are able to adjust the local time forwards and backwards, in one-hour increments. This adjustment is made while the home time hour hand and seconds hand continue to run, thereby, ensuring there is no loss of time.

Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R
Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R
Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R

The quartz caliber seems to have done away with the dual home and local time day/night apertures, in favor of a solo aperture at 6 o’clock that is meant to correspond specifically with the home time indicator. The other aspect of the typical combination of Travel Time indications that has been omitted on the 5269/200R, is the date indication at 6. These differences and amendments aside, expect that the caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H will be finished and perform to Patek’s exacting standards, never mind that it is a quartz movement.

The 5269/200R is being presented in a 38.8 mm rose gold case with 48 diamonds set on its bezel and a solid caseback. It comes fitted with a composite material, matte white strap that perfectly matches the white dial of the timepiece.

Aquanaut Luce Travel Time ref. 5269/200R

Tech Specs: Reference 5269/200R-001

Movement: Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H; quartz; two time zones: local and home time indication; day/night indication for home time in an aperture at 6 o’clock; sweep seconds; diameter: 23.9 mm; height: 2.95 mm; number of parts: 96

Dial: Matte white, embossed with Aquanaut pattern, gold applied numerals; local time hand: rose gold baton-style with luminescent coating; home time hand: skeletonized rose gold baton-style

Displays: Hour hand for local time (solid); hour hand for home time (skeletonized); minute hand seconds hand; aperture: day/night indication for home time

Case: Rose gold; diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm; height: 8.77 mm; water-resistant to 60 m; solid caseback

Three-position crown: Pushed in: normal operation; pulled out (1): to set the local time (in one-hour step clockwise or counterclockwise) pulled out (2): to set the time and stop the movement

Diamonds: 48 diamonds: ~1.1 ct. (bezel)

Strap: Composite material, matte white; Aquanaut fold-over clasp

Price: USD 40,216

Aquanaut Luce References 5268/200R & 5267/200As

The Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268/200R
The Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268/200R

Patek Philippe is also extending the time-only 38.8mm segment of the Aquanaut family with four new additions, starting with the 5268/200R, which is a white dial version in rose gold, decorated with 48 diamonds on its bezel. The 5268/200R is powered by the automatic Caliber 26-330 S C.

From there, we have black, white and olive dial versions of the timepiece in steel decorated with 48 diamonds on the bezel, all of which are powered by the Caliber E 23-250 S C quartz movement. And, of course, each watch is fitted on a composite material in colors that match their specific dials.

The three dial variations of the 2021 Aquanaut Luce ref. 5267/200A
The three dial variations of the 2021 Aquanaut Luce ref. 5267/200A

Tech Specs: Reference 5268/200R-001

Movement: Caliber 26-330 S C; self-winding; date in an aperture; sweep seconds; diameter: 27 mm; height: 3.3 mm; number of parts: 212; winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor; frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz); power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours

Dial: Matte white, embossed with Aquanaut pattern, gold applied numerals; rose gold baton-style hands with luminescent coating

Displays: Hour hand; minute hand; seconds hand; aperture: date

Case: Rose gold; diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm; height: 8.5 mm; water-resistant to 120 m; screw-down crown; sapphire crystal case back

Three-position crown: Unscrewed: to wind the watch; pulled out (1): to set the date; pulled out (2): to set the time

Diamonds: 48 diamonds: ~1.11 ct. (bezel)

Strap: composite material, matte white; Aquanaut fold-over clasp

Price: USD 49,914

Tech Specs: Reference 5267/200A

Movement: Caliber E 23-250 S C; quartz; date in an aperture; sweep seconds; diameter: 23.9 mm; height: 2.5 mm; number of parts: 80

Dial: 5267/200A-001: black; 5267/200A-010: matte white; 267/200A-011: khaki green; embossed with Aquanaut pattern, gold applied hour markers; white gold baton-style hands with luminescent coating

Displays: Hour hand; minute hand; seconds hand; aperture: date

Case: Steel; diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm; height: 7.9 mm; water-resistant to 120 m; screw-down crown; solid case back

Three-position crown: Pushed in: normal operation; unscrewed and pulled out (1): to set the date; unscrewed and pulled out (2): to set the time and stop the movement

Strap: composite material, black, matte white or khaki green; aquanaut fold-over clasp

Diamonds: 48 diamonds: ~1.11 ct. (bezel)

Price: USD 20,108

Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968G

The 2021 Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G offered in a khaki green and blue, black-gradient dial variations
The 2021 Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G offered in a khaki green and blue, black-gradient dial variations

It was at Baselworld of 2018 that Patek Philippe introduced the chronograph to the Aquanaut family, with the reference 5968. Specifically, it was the 5968A-001, in a 42. 2 mm stainless steel case powered by the automatic Caliber CH 28-520 C/528. It featured a central flyback chronograph with a 60-minute totalizer at 6 o’clock and a date indication at 3 o’clock to go along with the hour and minute hands.

The 5968A-001’s most striking feature was its black gradient dial paired with a bold orange color applied to all of the chronograph displays, including the hands and sclaes for the chronograph seconds and minute hands. Curiously the watch delivered fit onto a black composite strap but also included an orange strap in the box, which played off the colors used for the chronograph elements on the dial.

Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G-001: blue, black-gradient
Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G-001: blue, black-gradient

For 2021, Patek is expanding the 5968 line with two additions that are decidedly sober compared to the 5968A-001. Both pieces are in white gold, with options for either a blue, black-gradient or a khaki green, which we first saw in the 2019 reference 5168G.

Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G-010: khaki green
Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968G-010: khaki green

Tech Specs: Reference 5968G

Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 C/528; self-winding; flyback chronograph; central chronograph hand; 60-minute counter; date in an aperture; diameter: 30 mm; height: 6.63 mm; number of parts: 308; winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor; frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz); power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours

Dial: 5968G-001: blue, black-gradient; 5968G-010: khaki green; embossed with Aquanaut pattern, gold applied numerals with luminescent coating; white gold baton-style hands with luminescent coating

Displays: Hour hand; minute hand; chronograph hand (sweep seconds); subsidiary dial: 60-minute counter; aperture: date

Case: White gold; diameter (10–4 o’clock): 42.2 mm; height: 11.9 mm; water-resistant to 120 m; screw-down crown; sapphire crystal case back

Two-position crown: Unscrewed: to wind the watch; pulled out: to set the time;

Pushers: chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock; chronograph reset and flyback function at 4 o’clock;

Corrector: Date correction at 8 o’clock

Strap: Composite material, midnight blue or khaki green; aquanaut fold-over clasp

Price: USD 69,194

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