Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Champions Women’s Complicated Watches
“Today we show and talk about women’s complicated watches more than before, but they have always been there,” says Head of Creation Sandrine Stern. “What is important to us, and to our female clients, is that they have their own watch, so we do not just take the same movement and case and add precious stones, we insist on a collection that is specifically for ladies. Interestingly, the optimum case size has remained static for women at about 36 or 37mm. Wearability is important so there are a lot of details that we have to adapt — even more so when we are talking about a complication.
Sound Out
Famed for listening to and approving every minute repeater that leaves the manufacture, Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern believes that the watchmakers’ skill is at such a level he can ask for a woman’s minute repeater to be made “more feminine”. Describing the sound, however, is something he finds more difficult, insisting that it is instinctual. “We have the skills to fine tune,” he says. “The watchmaker who regulates the gong has to deal with tiny differences, all of which impact on the sound. For a woman’s piece, I ask for it to be more feminine. It is not easy. For a man, it will be a deep dong, for a woman a high ding. It’s tiny adjustments, but at this level, that is what we are aiming for.
An obvious question is whether the range and depth of women’s complicated watches offered by Patek are a result of having a woman as Head of Creation, but this is seen as irrelevant by Thierry and Sandrine who both see movement innovation as the key to their success in the female market. “It’s not only a question of design,” explains Sandrine. “Thierry insists on not using calibres from men’s timepieces for ladies watches and that is why we have such a phenomenal collection.”
Having grown up in the watch industry, learning the business from the ground up before building his own vision, Thierry believes that everything starts with a movement. “If you have a big chunky calibre, you can’t expect a beautiful feminine watch – it doesn’t work,” he says. “So, if you want to be a leader in women’s watches, you have to be able to fabricate a thin movement which is small in diameter and has complications. The external design comes way after the movement. We have beautiful cases because we have beautiful calibres.”
The Women’s Movement
“There is nothing wrong with quartz,” adds Sandrine, “but it is important to have the whole collection. Today you have both the woman who likes a quartz movement and the woman who likes a mechanical watch — with or without a complication — and, most of the time, those women are buying the watches themselves. When we launched the Twenty-4, it was often bought by men for women, but today women buy complications for themselves because they are able to and because they know about the product. They are successful and don’t need a man to buy for them.”
And although the demand for women’s complications is growing, Thierry insists that Patek Philippe does not follow a marketing brief, preferring to use his 20 years of experience, of listening, interpreting and adapting the collection. “There is no secret,” he says. “If you are passionate, it works. People can feel it. If I was only trying to make money I would not do this; I would make two women’s complications, market them to death and sell 50,000 pieces. Of course, we would be successful, but that is not what Patek Philippe is about. Where would be the pleasure?”
Did he feel that he was taking a big risk that could alienate Patek clients? “I was not afraid. I knew men may be jealous and may refuse to buy the movement afterwards. But we gave enough information for people to understand that the movement is neutral and that is what happened. It worked and it was fun because no one expected it. It was revenge for every woman.”
Looking Forward
When it comes to what female clients want from Patek, Thierry says the answer is pretty much universal: they want to be surprised. But they also want something for a reason. “The chronograph is still one of the most popular complications. But demand for world timers and annual calendars is also growing for practical reasons.
“Our complications are always intuitive and easy-to-use,” says Sandrine. “This is paramount because the most important thing is to wear your watch and not be scared of it. People are worried about setting perpetual calendars because they think they are going to break them. There are simple rules to follow, however, you should not be afraid. On the plus side, the fact that breaking such a mechanism is a worry shows great respect.” Thierry continues: “That’s why we are successful at auction. Customers know they can send us their watches and they will be restored perfectly. And I think this is more important for women than men.”