Auctions
Only Watch 2023: All the new piece unique watches to go on auction in November
Auctions
Only Watch 2023: All the new piece unique watches to go on auction in November
Covering literally every brand from A to Z, come and see what will dominate the charity auction this year.
Only Watch, the biennial charity auction of luxury timepieces, is back for its tenth edition this year. Inaugurated in 2005 by its founder Luc Pettavino to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, the event has come a long way since. With one-of-a-kind timepieces specially created and contributed by some of the world’s best names in luxury watchmaking, it has now become one of the most keenly followed events on the haute horlogerie calendar.
The last Only Watch edition in 2021, for instance, saw 53 piece unique watches net a combined total of CHF 30 million, with a Patek Philippe complicated desk clock raking in CHF 9.5 million despite its relatively modest estimated price of CHF 400,000. But that’s rather par for the course for a Patek Philippe unique lot at any Only Watch. The FP Journe X Francis Ford Coppola FCC Blue did extremely well too, hammering for CHF 4.5 million (est. CHF 300,000), while the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin came in close at CHF 3.1 million (est. CHF 160,000).
But while show-stopping, they still paled in comparison to the star lot of the 2019 Only Watch: a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A – yes, A – which sold for a staggering CHF 31 million. It is the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. To get a sense of how incredible this was, consider that the combined total hammer price of all 50 lots of Only Watch 2019 was CHF 38,593,000. And this was already more than three times the total amount achieved by the 2017 edition.
So for 2023, Only Watch will see 62 lots jostling for limelight, the most number of watches it has ever had. A total of 73 watchmakers and brands have participated in the creation of these timepieces, 16 of which are collaborations between watchmakers and artists or legendary brands.
This year’s auction will be presided by Christie’s and is set to happen on 5th November 2023 at 2pm CET at the Geneva Palexpo, as well as online via the Christie’s website and via telephone. As in previous editions, no buyer’s premiums or commissions are applicable throughout the sale. Click here to express interest in attending the auction in person.
This 10th edition celebrates Only Watch’s bright and colorful story by including all colors of previous editions in its visual identity and green as well, as an added emblem of hope. The lots will embark on a world tour beginning on 6th September in Los Angeles, with more dates and cities to be announced shortly. Click here to find out more about Only Watch 2023.
Ok that’s enough chit-chat, let’s get into the main reason we’re all here for: the watches! Scroll through to find out more about the complete list of 62 piece-unique timepieces from Only Watch 2023.
Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours Only Watch
Andersen Genève’s contribution to Only Watch 2023, is an exercise in minimalism. This unique piece of artistry features a platinum case and a pink gold crown. Aside from that, this watch is all dial, a dial crafted from pure jade stone. Meticulously cut to a mere 0.4mm thickness and flawlessly finished, the jade dial showcases the exceptional skill required to handle such delicate materials.
Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours Only Watch
At first glance, the dial appears as a captivating black, beautifully contrasting with the powdered pink gold minutes hand, chapter ring, and brand logo. Look closer though, and the intricate veins and details inherent to jade become apparent, revealing the distinct characteristics of this exquisite stone. The dial’s thinnest point, where the hour wheel resides, measures a mere 0.15mm.
This pared-back example of Andersen Genève’s distinctive Jump Hours is a masterful example of what makes the artisanal brand great.
Estimate CHF 40,000 – 50,000
Angelus Chronodate Gold X Château Angelus
Proving that wit and humour have a place in watches, Angelus has teamed up with their namesake in the wine industry, Château Angelus, for a one-of-a-kind admission to Only Watch. Château Angelus, one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious wines, serves as the inspiration for the Chronodate Gold, featuring a dial crafted from freeze-dried wine lees sourced from the estate’s 2022 vintage.
Angelus Chronodate Gold X Château Angelus
This partnership makes sense in a lot of ways; beyond their shared heritage, watchmaking and winemaking both thrive on the geographical influences that shape their respective crafts. Bordeaux’s terroirs provide an exquisite palette of flavors and aromas. Similarly, Swiss watches have long been associated with a limited geographic area that fosters traditional craftsmanship and horological excellence.
The Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus exemplifies the harmonious fusion of these worlds. The dial is composed of finely powdered wine lees, delicately deposited to create texture and color, embodying the essence of the wine. The presence of a red-gold applique at 6 o’clock, depicting the Château’s bell, is another nod to the vineyard. And the strap? Well, it’s black, but it’s got a burgundy lining.
Estimate CHF 50,000 – 60,000
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023
With the Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023, Armin Strom continues to break the laws of watchmaking in unique style. The automatic calibre with constant force mechanism is, of course, iconic Armin Strom. For Only Watch though, we get it with a green twist. The off-centre, transparent green sapphire dial stands out on its own but also allows the wearer even more of a glimpse into the heart of this watch. The finishing is naturally superb, with no effort spared to showcase the brand’s tri-bridge design, here coated with ruthenium. Adding a touch of collaborative flair, the black movement plate has been hand-guillochéd at Kari Voutilainen’s atelier, so you know it’s good.
Estimate CHF 15,000 – 30,000
ArtyA Purity Moissanite
ArtyA’s Only Watch entrant this year is the ID Purity Moissanite timepiece. This impressive number gives us not only a new architectural manufacture movement but also showcases a cutting-edge case material never used before in watchmaking.
The case is made of Moissanite—a stunning stone originating from a meteorite crater. With a hardness rating of 9.5 on the Mohs scale, Moissanite is the second hardest material on Earth, surpassed only by diamonds. The faceted design of the Moissanite case gives the impression that the movement is floating within a perfectly cut gemstone, creating a captivating visual experience with an ever-changing symphony of colors.
Once you look past the chromatic case, there’s the Purity manufacture movement, the result of three years of close collaboration between ArtyA and Telos. The movement’s circular and layered bridges, exemplify visual harmony and highlight the intricate craftsmanship of the skeletonized movement, all finished to a high degree, with sandblasted cast iron bridges and hand-beveled finishes. Most brands would have offered either the unique movement or the case. That Artya did both is a testament to their vision and dedication to craft.
Estimate CHF 40,000 – 50,000
Atelier de Chronometrie AdC30 Only Watch
Atelier de Chronométrie’s Only Watch this year — the AdC30 — represents a significant step forward for the brand. Showcasing a new in-house calibre (M284), an enhanced case design, and a handmade dial crafted by the Barcelona-based team for the very first time, there’s a lot to like about this glimmering, 18K grey gold watch. Note the enlarged stepped shape for the lugs, and the sandwich dial, all executed with Atelier de Chronométrie typical level of craft.
The movement is impressive too. The M284 has a hand-frosted finish that draws inspiration from vintage calibres of the 1940s. In addition there’s a range of other high-end finishes, including anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, black polish and more. By focusing on craft and finish, the Atelier de Chronométrie team has created a unique piece that is an excellent expression of their brand identity.
Estimate CHF 50,000 – 70,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
Audemars Piguet is one of the more hotly anticipated lots from Only Watch 2023, and their offering, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, does not disappoint. First released in 2022 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked was already a special watch.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
What makes this version stand out even more is the striking treatment, with its white ceramic case and bracelet, beautifully contrasted by the vivid blue hue of the open-worked movement. The 41mm white ceramic case and matching bracelet is a contemporary take on the iconic design, yet somehow it manages not to overshadow the movement, with the main architecture in bold blue, and the flying tourbillon cage gear train in a rich and rhodium-tone, creating a captivating sense of depth and visual impact.
As you’d expect, every element of this timepiece is meticulously finished with refined Haute Horlogerie decorations, including “traits tirés”, circular and sunray brushing, snailing, and polished chamfers. The blue inner bezel and luminescent-coated white gold hour markers and hands ensuring optimal visibility while maintaining a sleek and modern appearance. While the fundamental design of the RO might be 50 years old, this unique piece is unmistakably 2023.
Estimate CHF 300,000 – 350,000
Baltic Premier Quantième Perpétual
Often at Only Watch, you get a lot of entrants that are slight revisions of existing models. Exciting up-and-comer Baltic has not walked that path. They have entered the remarkable Premier Quantième Perpétuel, a collaborative creation with the experienced watchmakers at Maclef (led by Emmanuel Bouchet). But before we get to the watch, it’s also worth noting the name on the dial ‘Baltic Experiments’, which marks the debut of the brand’s fine watchmaking line.
Baltic Premier Quantième Perpétual
This watch is the result of an ambitious challenge was to craft a highly legible and perfectly balanced Perpetual Calendar. The result is a slim 37mm timepiece that seamlessly blends steel and titanium. With three sub-registers and a prominent pointer date, the watch is powered by the newly developed ultra-thin Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor movement with a new perpetual calendar module. The dial is what you’d expect from Baltic: it draws inspiration from mid-century watch design, and is elegant and readable. The vivid aubergine hue is a little more surprising, but a perfect fit for Only Watch. While we’re sure this unique piece will do very well indeed, we can’t wait to see what’s next for Baltic Experiments.
Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000
Barbier-Mueller Mosaique II
You might not know the name Barbier-Mueller, but based on their impressive Only Watch entry, Mosaïque II, that’s probably something that should change.
Barbier-Mueller Mosaique II
Mosaïque II is an extraordinary timepiece, made even more remarkable because it is, to date, the only collaboration F.P. Journe has made to date. On top of that, the watch has employed the visionary design of Eric Giroud, with the exceptional craftsmanship of Les Cadraniers de Genève and Les Boîtiers de Genève.
The result is a 41mm platinum watch, with a mesmerizing mosaic of stones, to create a lotus flower that represents over 1000 hours of work, and incorporates 12 different métiers d’art techniques. The stones, set using the champlevé technique, adorn the dial, case middle and clamshell back, for a fully sculptural effect. The watch is powered by Journe’s caliber 1304, completing this wrist-worn love letter to Geneva.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000
Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Rainbow
Bell & Ross always has fun with their Only Watch entries, and 2023 is no different. The BR 03 Cyber Rainbow, a daring and innovative timepiece created exclusively for the 2023 edition of Only Watch. A ‘cyber’ take on their BR 03 design, this watch showcases avant-garde flair and vibrant colors.
Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Rainbow
The meticulous craftsmanship is evident in both the manufacture movement and the intricately detailed case. The 3D skeleton movement with its oscillating weight and DLC micro-blasted metal bridges is adorned with varnish-filled pockets, filled in a riotous rainbow of colors. This polychromatic spree continues onto the titanium case, which offers a neon-stained glass look, achieved with even more varnish. The effect even continues onto the rubber strap, which sees the bold pattern wrap around the wrist.
Estimate CHF 45,000 – 55,000
Biver Catharsis
One of the newest entrants into the Only Watch roster, Biver watches already has big shoes to fill. Conceived by legendary watchmaker Jean-Claude Biver, this remarkable creation stands as a testament to Biver’s relentless pursuit of the edge in watchmaking. Showcasing a fusion of traditional craftsmanship and avant-garde design, Catharsis is full of intricate details.
Biver Catharsis
Like previous Biver watches, this is an automatic minute repeater carillon with a tourbillon, in a 42mm titanium case. It’s the dial though, that is set to impress. The lower part of the dial represents an agitated sea made of sapphires. The upper part of the dial is a sunset representing a starry sky made of meteorite, silver obsidian, and opal. Beyond its technical prowess, the Biver watch captures the imagination with its distinct aesthetic. The harmonious interplay of colors, textures, and shapes creates a visual symphony, and a truly wearable work of art.
Estimate CHF 500,000 – 700,000
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Piece Unique Only Watch
Blancpain pays homage to the iconic Fifty Fathoms timepiece with a special edition for Only Watch 2023. Celebrating its 70th anniversary, Blancpain presents a unique variation of the 70th Anniversary Act 1 model, featuring a captivating blue color scheme that symbolizes its connection to the ocean.
Based off the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1, this unique piece features a blue unidirectional bezel made of scratch-resistant sapphire and a subtly graduated blue dial. In a nod to Blancpain’s ongoing work with ocean conservation, the watch is accompanied by a blue NATO-style strap made from recycled nylon sourced from reclaimed fishing nets, contributing to environmental cleanup initiatives.
Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000
Boucheron Joy de Lumière
When a legacy jeweller such as Boucheron creates timepieces, you just know it is going to be a stunning elevation of the tried-and-true – and even more so when it’s creating a unique piece for Only Watch. The classical Joy de Lumière is one of the most quintessentially Boucheron timepieces as evinced by its monochromatic Art Deco-inspired styling. But the black-and-white juxtaposition isn’t the only creative tension found in this watch. Boucheron’s inventive approach to gemstone pairings can also be appreciated here, where brilliant white diamonds feature alongside dramatic black spinels.
Boucheron Joy de Lumière
Yet this is no ordinary Joy de Lumière timepiece, and Boucheron has truly gone the extra mile for the Only Watch charity. See how the watch now boasts much more sumptuous volumes, with diamond paved white gold components taking a three-dimensional form allowing the precious gems to sparkle with even more intensity. The bracelet, as well, appears completely different, arranged not in straight lines, but a twist spiral design echoing the elegant volumes of the case. And as a final touch of jewellery making ingenuity, there are no visible clasps throughout the watch, because it has been cleverly integrated with the link at 12 o’clock.
Estimate CHF 35,000 – 45,000
Bovet Orbis Mundi
Bovet has offered up a unique twist on the Orbis Mundi for Only Watch 2023. This complicated beast showcases a remarkable fusion of craftsmanship and functionality.
Bovet Orbis Mundi
Crafted from 18K red gold, this 42mm watch stands out with a magenta guilloché dial (achieved thanks to seven layers of magenta lacquer) with a world time display that can be easily set using the crown. In a nice nod to the charitable nature of this piece, the Only Watch home town of Monaco has a place on the dial, and the matching pink ‘X’ symbolizes the fact that this is the 10th instalment of the series.
It is impressive that more than 95% of the components in this timepiece are produced in-house, making it abundantly clear that Bovet truly deserves its status as one of the few truly integrated manufactures.
Estimate CHF 52,000 – 65,000
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555
Breuget’s Hora Mundi complication is one of the most ingenious takes on the travel timer — and a constant joy to use. So we’re glad that the brand has chosen to showcase it in a special manner for Only Watch 2023.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555
The Hora Mundi watch boasts a unique and impressive mechanical complication—an instant-jump time-zone display. By simply selecting the first city’s time and date and setting the second city, the watch’s mechanism calculates and adjusts the time and date using a clever system of cams, hammers, and an integrated differential. The push of a button allows for seamless travel across different time zones without disrupting the watch’s accuracy.
What makes the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 special, though, is the dial. Multiple layers and materials create depth and visual interest, with hand-guilloché waves on a gold base and a sapphire plate showcasing luminescent hour markers and engraved navy blue continents. In this special edition, rose gold dots highlight Earth, symbolizing its continuous activity. A rubber strap complements the watch’s 43.9mm gold case and rose gold folding buckle, combining elegance and durability.
Estimate CHF 70,000 – 80,000
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble
The unique Octo Finissimo Tourbillon watch in marble is a testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship achieved by Bvlgari. The standout feature is the 40mm DLC treated titanium case and bracelet adorned with Verdi Alpi marble, applied in a layer only 0.5mm thick, across 110 facets. The dial is also treated with the stone in a 0.6mm layer, which opens to reveal the 1.95mm thin tourbillon.
Aside from the fact that it looks incredible, the stone, which is sourced from the Aosta Valley, the natural passage linking Switzerland and Italy through the Alps, is a symbolic link between the dual identities of Bvlgari’s watchmaking identity. The hues of the stone evoke alpine forests and snowy peaks, and the choice of material is Inspired by the ancient use of marble in Roman architecture; Bvlgari pays homage to the material’s historical significance.
There are a lot of stunning pieces offered at Only Watch, but for sheer visual impact, it’s hard to top Bvlgari.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch
Carl F. Bucherer’s contribution to Only Watch is the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch, a blacked-out, technical take on the signature design that showcases a cutting-edge forged carbon case and boasts an urban aesthetic with its distinctive carbon-flecked black marbled appearance.
Unmissable in this black-on-black watch is the ‘floating’ tourbillon, highlighted in vibrant green, embodying the signature of CFB. The tourbillon is supported by three ceramic bearings, creates the illusion of suspension within the timepiece.
On the reverse side, the sapphire crystal case back unveils an oscillating weight finished in the same striking green hue. With black-coated bridges and gray engravings, the movement’s only additional pops of color come from the gemstones visible within.
Estimate CHF 60,000 – 100,000
Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch
If we’re being completely honest, Chanel is being a bit cheeky with their Only Watch entrant for 2023, offering up not one, but two timepieces. A twin-set of contemporary takes on the J12, the Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch is realised in both black and white ceramic.
Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch
The ‘La Pausa’ name comes from a photograph of Mademoiselle Chanel in her garden at La Pausa, the watch dials feature her silhouette dressed in a striped jersey and sailor’s pants. The silhouette of Mademoiselle Chanel is delicately printed on a sapphire glass plate and placed on the dial.
Of course, the movements are the self-winding Caliber 12.1 movement, developed and produced by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, which is co-owned by Chanel. All told, a chic and stylish pair. Typically Chanel.
Estimate CHF 40,000 – 50,000
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition
This year for Only Watch, Chopard follows up on the successful return of their historic 36mm dress watch with the L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition. First introduced in 1997, this elegant dress watch debuted the brand’s L.U.C collection. For this year’s only watch we get a one-off version of the recent reissue.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition
With an Ice Green-toned gold dial symbolizing the fragility of icebergs and environmental challenges paired with a Lucent steel case, this charming watch represents Chopard’s commitment to sustainability, and good taste. The movement used is the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, chronometer-certified and powered by a gold micro-rotor, with 65 hours power off two barrels and bearing the prestigious Geneva seal.
Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000
Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Complicite – Courage Every Second
We’re going to have to wait a little bit longer to see what Czapek Genève’s Only Watch offering looks like IRL, but we’re sure its going to be worth the wait. The brand will Place Vendôme Complicité – “Courage Every Second”, as the watch will be called is a truly unique timepiece that showcases a reinterpretation of a double escapement combination, something you don’t see very often. Each escapement will beat at its own pace, with any rate variations skillfully balanced by a differential. If you’re going to this much effort, you might as well show it off, which is just what the brand is planning to do, with an open-worked — champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans inscribed with “Courage Every Second” on the réhaut.
Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Complicite – Courage Every Second
The concept for this watch emerged as an evolution of Czapek’s previous models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, with a focus on respecting the positioning of the escapements and the central differential. Through a fortuitous connection between Xavier de Roquemaurel and watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, a collaboration was forged, leading to the realization of this exceptional timepiece.
Estimate CHF 80,000 – 100,000
De Bethune DW5 Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 2023
De Bethune has a strong track record at Only Watch, and that form doesn’t look set to falter for the 2023 edition. The watch is called DW5 Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 23, and its the case that makes it truly unique.
De Bethune DW5 Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 2023
Embracing ancient iron and steel-making techniques, Denis Flageollet meticulously forged the case using Damascus iron and steel from Auberson iron ores, located near the De Bethune manufacture.
The patterns on its surface bear witness to the various stages of metal preparation. This unique timepiece also features a blued meteorite dial and a spherical meteorite moon, evoking the origins of time itself. On the back, the Calibre DB2149 movement, crafted by the skilled De Bethune team can be admired. As with everything De Bethune does, this watch embodies the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and showcases a truly special, hand-forged iron case.
Estimate CHF 220,000 – 270,000
F. P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu
When not blowing our minds with mechanically astounding creations, FP Journe continues to slay the horological game by coming up with some truly intriguing designs. The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu ignites some favorite conversational topics all watch aficionados love to have: what our relationship with time is, and the emotional appeal of the modern luxury watch. Furtif translates to ‘stealth’ in English and here it refers to the dial crafted with translucent blue Grand Feu enamel. Thanks to laser engraving for the numerals and minute track, as well as matt blue hands, everything barring the bright red seconds hand are all but impossible to clearly read.
F. P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu
Taking a completely oppositional route with legibility, Journe intends this watch as an ode to watch appreciation, since the indications can only be enjoyed by its wearer. The moon phase and power reserve indication, too, are hidden away, located on the back of the watch, integrated with the movement, a gorgeous Caliber 1522 in 18K rose gold. This 42mm tantalum timepiece is worn on an elegant flat-link bracelet, with alternating sand-blasted and polished surfaces all around.
Estimate CHF 200,000 – 400,000
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 Only Watch
As an independent brand dedicated to the life and work of an extraordinary watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud consistently delivers the goods where chronometry is concerned. But this unique piece for Only Watch exceeds even these lofty standards, for not only is it a watch for charity, it honors the year the eponymous watchmaker received his ‘Master Watchmaker’ title – 270 years ago in 1753. Fittingly, Ferdinand Berthoud’s present day leadership premieres an impressive new caliber which features the world’s first COSC-certified cylindrical balance spring. You can admire this breath-taking component in full on all angles including the generous porthole on the caseband at 9 o’clock.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 Only Watch
Meanwhile the 42.3mm case is made of patinated bronze, with a unique color tone and nuances necessitating several months of trial and testing to obtain. It is a beautiful complement to the movement’s sandblasted and 3N gilded plates and bridges sitting underneath the domed sapphire crystal glass. The buyer of this timepiece will also be offered a manufacture visit including behind-the-scenes look at the creation of this watch, as well as a guided tour of a private collection of 18th century marine clocks and pocket watches made by Ferdinand Berthoud.
Estimate CHF 160,000 – 180,000
Frederique Constant X Christiaan van der Klaauw Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023
Known for its affordable yet complicated timepieces, Frederique Constant turns its flagship perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch for Only Watch 2023, but it comes with an unexpected twist: the perpetual calendar has been replaced by something more unusual – a planetarium created by Dutch independent watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, positioned in lieu of the month register at 12 o’clock.
Frederique Constant X Christiaan van der Klaauw Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023
The planetarium is a noteworthy feature of this wristwatch, as it functions as a genuine representation of the solar galaxy. However, instead of featuring the conventional eight planets, this planetarium includes six. One fascinating detail is that the planetarium accurately displays the orbital period of each planet. For example, the disc representing Saturn takes a full 29 years to complete a rotation. The result of this collaboration surpasses the individual strengths of each brand involved. It marks the first time Frederique Constant features a planetarium in their timepiece, while Christiaan van der Klaauw incorporates a tourbillon for the first time as a result of this collaboration.
Estimate CHF 90,000 – 110,000
Furlan Marri X Dominique Renaud X Julien Tixier – Secular Perpetual Calendar Pièce Unique For Only Watch 2023
One of the highlights in the Only Watch 2023 collection comes from Furlan Marri, a notable maker of affordable watches with a distinctive retro flavour. For this special occasion, the brand has ventured into new territory by presenting a complicated timepiece: a secular perpetual calendar watch, which represents the highest echelon of such complication. More importantly, this represents a breakthrough in creating a remarkably simple solution to a historically intricate complication, which is a significant achievement for the advancement of watchmaking. Additionally, user-friendliness is improved by replacing recessed pushers with a large slider, akin to a minute repeater.
Furlan Marri X Dominique Renaud X Julien Tixier – Secular Perpetual Calendar Pièce Unique For Only Watch 2023
A standard perpetual calendar isn’t perpetually accurate, as it requires adjustment every 100 years due to the exclusion of leap years when the year is divisible by 100 (unless it is also divisible by both 100 and 400). In contrast, a secular perpetual calendar is meticulously programmed to account for these specific intricacies. Secular perpetual calendar watches are objectively, historically rare, and they typically require very complex mechanical solutions.
The secular perpetual calendar module has been developed in collaboration with Dominique Renaud, co-founder of complication specialist Renaud & Papi (now part of Audemars Piguet), and Julien Tixier, a watchmaker specialised in prototyping. The duo has previously collaborated with Dr. Benoît Dubuis to create the DRT Tempus Fugit, a timepiece that features a secular perpetual calendar.
Building upon their expertise from that collaboration, the latest module in this watch has been improved to achieve efficiency and affordability, with the secular assembly comprising just 5 parts and the date module totaling 25 parts. Stay tuned for more technical insights in an upcoming in-depth story.
Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000
Gerald Genta Only Watch 2023
Having recently been revived by the LVMH group earlier this year, Gerald Genta is participating in the Only Watch event for the first time. For the charity auction, Gerald Genta has created a minute repeater with a retrograde minute hand and jumping hours, along with a new octagonal case (likely new, although it’s difficult to say for sure given Mr. Genta’s extensive portfolio of over 100,000 watch designs) and a dial featuring Mickey Mouse.
Genta Gerald
Fans of La Fabrique du Temps, the workshop behind Gerald Genta that has also produced similar watches for Louis Vuitton in recent years, may find this complication familiar. Nevertheless, it remains a rare and commendable combination of complications deserving of applause.
As expected, the case features Gerald Genta’s distinctive geometrical design, but the octagonal format is a new variation. Its lines have a charming appearance that complements the dial, which features Mickey Mouse. Notably, the dial demonstrates traditional craftsmanship, as it is made of champlevé enamel. This involves engraving the dial with the outline of the key elements and then filling it with enamel.
Interestingly, this marks the first time in Gerald Genta’s history that a Mickey Mouse dial is combined with the minute repeater complication, both being signatures of the brand. This exemplifies the value of revitalising the Gerald Genta name, as the team continues to inject new life into the brand. They have successfully incorporated the key elements that defined the late Mr. Genta’s work while introducing a unique combination that was unforeseen.
Estimate CHF 350,000 – 500,000
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
When Girard-Perregaux introduced the Constant Escapement a decade and a half ago, it was a remarkable achievement, as it was one of the few systems that provided a constant amount of impulse directly to the balance. Unlike a remontoir, which is typically positioned at the end of a gear train, the Constant Escapement is a constant-force system situated after the gear train, offering a more direct solution. The execution of this Constant Escapement is equally astonishing: a slender silicon blade running horizontally across the dial flexes and transmits energy to the balance. However, despite its initial debut, the design of the watch has undergone minimal changes until now, while the mechanism has received subtle updates.
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
Girard-Perregaux has finally given it a regal makeover by incorporating the brand’s iconic golden bridges, an element associated with the brand for over 150 years. By combining these two significant and representative elements of the brand – one being classic and the other contemporary – they have created something interesting and fitting for special occasions like this. Furthermore, the gold-on-gold palette, along with the openworking on both the front and back, adds a touch of luxury classicism to the watch and elevates its appeal.
Estimate CHF 140,000 – 220,000
Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala
Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala
For the charitable auction, the Dutch independent watchmaker Gronefeld has unveiled a uniquely vibrant version of its entry-level automatic wristwatch, distinguishing it from its regular production models. The 1941 Principia Mandala showcases a mesmerizing mandala design incorporating 16 vivid colors, which holds auspicious symbolism. Additionally, the case back has been dressed up for the occasion with a hunter case back, meaning a hinged lid over the sapphire back, reminiscent of traditional timepieces. Notably, the inside of the case back is engraved with portraits of Bart and Tim, the founders of Gronefeld, along with their father, Sjef.
Estimate CHF 55,000 – 65,000
H. Moser & Cie. X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
The two Swiss independent brands known for their distinctive characters, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, have once again collaborated to create a one-of-a-kind timepiece for Only Watch 2023. This time, they have chosen Moser’s iconic Streamliner integrated bracelet sports watch as their canvas, injecting it with an extra dose of fun.
While the complete watch design has yet to be unveiled, several detailed images have already been released, revealing an exciting feature: the Streamliner Pandamonium will showcase a miniature panda DJ within the watch, accompanied by a vibrant colour palette that embodies the spirit of the beach. There is no doubt that this is going to be one hell of a fun watch.
More importantly, the brands have revealed that a unique one-off movement has been developed for this occasion. Notably, the poster depicts MB&F’s signature steel bridge that holds an elevated balance, adding to the distinctive design. This revelation hints at promising details to be unveiled in the future.
Estimate CHF 300,000 – 400,000
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyager Only Watch
Last year, Hermes introduced a whimsical and innovative travel watch with the Arceau Le Temps Voyager. It’s no surprise that this watch has been chosen as the foundation for the Only Watch 2023 editions. Similar to other dual-time zone watches, the Le Temps Voyager displays the local time in a 12-hour format and the home time in a 24-hour format.
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyager Only Watch
However, what sets it apart is the unique presentation of the 12-hour local time. By using a pusher on the left side, the wearer can easily synchronize it with one of the 24 time zones represented by the cities on the ring. Additionally, the sub-dial that indicates the 12-hour local time gracefully moves around the dial as time passes. This year, Hermes has given the watch a makeover that complements the theme of Only Watch 2023. The addition of a rainbow of colors on the dial adds striking bursts of brightness to the black-on-black case and dial combination.
Estimate CHF 30,000 – 40,000
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire
Continuing their fruitful collaboration with artist Takashi Murakami, Hublot presents the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire. But this timepiece differs from any previous collaborations with the artist, as it has been developed from scratch for the occasion and is far more complex in every aspect.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire
Hublot introduces a brand-new case for this watch, made entirely of clear sapphire and resembling the shape of flower petals, adding a dynamic visual appeal to the watch. But the MP-15 goes beyond aesthetics with Hublot’s first-ever central flying tourbillon movement, a rare and remarkable achievement among esteemed watchmakers. This concept stems from the creative mind of Takashi Murakami himself, and Hublot deserves applause for its dedication to bringing this idea to life. They went above and beyond by creating an entirely new movement and case specifically for this charitable sale.
Estimate CHF 350,000 – 400,000
Jacob & Co X Concepto Watch Factory Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension
Having recently debuted the world’s fastest remontoir system – releasing six times per second – in the Astronomia Revolution earlier this year, Jacob & Co. seizes the opportunity to showcase its highly innovative wristwatch at Only Watch 2023. However, for this special occasion, there are notable updates and upgrades.
Jacob & Co X Concepto Watch Factory Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension
When it comes to style, what could be more fitting for a bold timepiece than an equally unconventional design? The dial no longer features the understated honeycomb pattern seen in the Astronomia Revolution, but instead serves as a canvas adorned with precious stones like topaz and sapphire, arranged in a captivating yet geometric pattern that exudes an organic feel.
Most importantly, the latest Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension features an upgraded movement with a quadruple-axis tourbillon, surpassing the original model’s triple-axis tourbillon. In fact, this timepiece boasts an additional axis compared to all other multi-axis tourbillons in the world, making it truly noteworthy. It represents the ultimate combination of daring design and mechanics, embodying a sense of “crazy” in a positive way.
Estimate CHF 700,000 – 750,000
Jaquet Droz The Rolling Stones Automaton
Historically specializing in intricate automaton creations, Jaquet Droz once again leverages its greatest strength in its contribution to the Only Watch 2023. However, this time, it takes a remarkably different approach. Departing from the classical depictions of flora and fauna found on its past watches, the brand presents the Rolling Stones Automaton—a vibrant display featuring a teeming scene of the musical instruments used by the rock band.
Jaquet Droz The Rolling Stones Automaton
But what truly sets it apart is the unconventional and eye-catching use of super trippy colors found on both the time sub-dial and the outer dial. The outer dial, functioning as an automaton, can rotate upon activation through the pusher on the crown. This whimsical color scheme is accompanied by the iconic tongue figure associated with the band.
Estimate CHF 250,000 – 300,000
Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer Only Watch 2023
Renowned for his whimsical and creative watches, independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin once again presents his signature “joker” or “rolling-eye” design in the charity auction. Staying true to tradition, the timepiece created for this event is unlike anything found in his regular creations. Konstantin Chaykin has gone the extra mile to bring forth the Stargazer Only Watch 2023, boasting an impressive lineup of 16 complications (including the tourbillon, if counted as a complication). It is truly commendable how the watchmaker has devoted extra effort to ensure that this creation stands out as a bona fide “only watch”.
Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer Only Watch 2023
With an impressive array of 16 complications ingeniously integrated into both sides of the watch, its reversible design allows for convenient wearing on either side, thanks to a well-conceived case and buckle system. Among these complications, the brand claims to introduce three world premieres. These include the sunrise and sunset azimuth angle indicator, providing a unique way to track these celestial events, as well as a moonphase display that moves in distinct steps. From its intriguing design to meticulous construction, the Stargazer undeniably stands among the top lots at Only Watch 2023.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 220,000
Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2023
In its latest contribution to the charity auction, Krayon once again presents its impressive Anywhere wristwatch – a seemingly simple timepiece with incredible complexity. It has the ability to accurately display the sunrise and sunset times for a specific location, as programmed by the watchmakers at Krayon’s workshop, tailored to the winner’s chosen destination.
Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2023
What sets the Anywhere apart is its clever design, showcasing a beautiful representation of the sunrise and sunset times. The two-color ring surrounding the painted center symbolizes the length of a day, dynamically changing with the seasons. The light blue segment represents daytime, while the dark blue segment signifies nighttime, with the intersection between the two indicating the precise moments of sunrise and sunset.
To commemorate this special occasion, the center part of the dial features a miniature painting that reimagines the Coastal Scene by the renowned Belgian painter Théo van Rysselberghe. Rather than replicating the painting in exact detail, the artwork captures the distinctive brushstrokes that define the original piece. It presents an abstract interpretation that stands on its own while paying homage to the historical masterwork.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000
L. Leroy Minute Repeater Only Watch
A brand with a storied history in 18th and 19th century French watchmaking, L. Leroy was quietly revived in the early 2000s. While maintaining its understated approach, the brand occasionally surprises enthusiasts with remarkable timepieces like the Chronometre Observatoire created for Only Watch 2015. This year, L. Leroy returns with a minute repeater tourbillon wristwatch that boasts an unusual design.
L. Leroy Minute Repeater Only Watch
The latest creation features a dial that may initially appear unrelated to time, but in fact, the entire dial is a rotating disc with an arrow indicating the hour by pointing at the 24 diamonds set in the bezel, thereby displaying the time in a 24-hour format. Notably, the watch showcases lavish decorations, including intricate engravings on the case and movement, along with a guilloche pattern on the dial. The movement within is a hand-wound minute repeater with a hidden flying tourbillon, believed to be a variant of the movement conceived by La Fabrique du Temps, which supplies minute repeater movements to top brands such as Laurent Ferrier. Although the movement may be shared among watchmakers, Leroy’s creativity sets it apart, making this minute repeater one of the more unusual options available in the market.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 180,000
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto On Track
For Only Watch 2023, Laurent Ferrier seizes the opportunity to pay homage to the iconic race car event, Le Mans, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. In doing so, they present their renowned integrated-bracelet sports watch with a unique twist.
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto On Track
While high horology independent brands typically lean towards a more reserved color palette, the latest Sport Auto On Track boldly embraces a vibrant array of colors, resembling a racing track encircling the dial. This distinctive design sets the watch apart from its predecessors, adding an exciting touch to the timepiece.
Estimate CHF 55,000 – 85,000
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
The Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is an exceptional timepiece that incorporates an advanced natural escapement, boasting twin escape wheels and a twin gear train. Naturally, it stands out as one of the technical highlights in terms of chronometry at Only Watch 2023. However, like most submissions for this charity auction, the special edition created by Lederer for Only Watch 2023 diverges significantly from its usual production style.
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
In an unexpected departure from tradition, this particular timepiece features a captivating array of colors on its black-coated movement. Although this may seem unusual for such a traditional watch, the colors are applied using luminescent painting, resulting in an eye-catching glow in the dark. Notably, the movement is presented in its full glory on the front, with the hours and minutes hands also displayed on the same side of the movement.
Estimate CHF 100,000 – 200,000
Louis Moinet Art-Tech
At its core, the Louis Moinet Art-Tech is a strictly traditional watch with a hand-wound tourbillon movement. However, its dial immediately distinguishes it as an ultra-modern timepiece. The vibrant color palette and intricate pattern on the dial are indicative of its contemporary styling.
Louis Moinet Art-Tech
What sets it apart, however, is the use of laser engraving on a silicon wafer, a technique that only a few brands have explored in watchmaking. This approach creates an iridescent surface, showcasing a captivating play of light and adding a unique character to the watch. In the context of this charity auction, where colorful dials are commonly featured, the Louis Moinet Art-Tech stands out with its modern appeal.
Estimate CHF 80,000 – 120,000
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023
For Only Watch 2023, Louis Vuitton debuts a creative makeover of its signature Tambour watch, resulting in the Tambour Einstein Automata (without the minute repeater) featuring an enamel dial. However, instead of depicting an object or a landscape, the dial portrays the physicist Albert Einstein, renowned for his realisation that time is not absolute but rather relative. Who better than Einstein, the person who possesses profound knowledge of time, to personify its essence?
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023
While the concept of featuring a playful portrait on a watch dial may initially appear tongue-in-cheek (pun unintended), Louis Vuitton’s keen eye for design has effortlessly executed this idea. The end result is a demonstration of audacious creativity, a rarity in the world of watches.
The dial incorporates both enamelling and engraving techniques, creating a visually striking depth. Notably, the portrait of Einstein is executed in grisaille enamel, a seldom-seen method that involves layering lighter enamel on a dark base. This technique results in a monochromatic painting, making it more challenging to convey intricate details due to the absence of colours.
The time-telling mechanism is as playful as the dial suggests. In fact, time can only be read when the automata are activated. The retrograde minute hand springs into action at seven o’clock, while the hour numerals replace the current formula in the top-right aperture. Additionally, as the equations change on the dial, Einstein’s tongue playfully sticks out, completing the distinctive portrait.
Estimate CHF 340,000 – 440,000
Ludovic Ballouard X Brittany Nicole Cox Upside Down Blue Feather
The Ludovic Balluoard Upside Down is a timepiece that effortlessly showcases creativity. Its ingenious hour markers captivate viewers as they rotate from the upside-down to the upright position, indicating the current hour. Placed near the dial edge, these markers create a spacious center, providing an ideal canvas for artistic embellishments.
Ludovic Ballouard X Brittany Nicole Cox Upside Down Blue Feather
For Only Watch 2023, the brand collaborates with the esteemed antiquarian horologist and guilloche artist, Britally Nicole Cox, to create a guilloche dial. Notably, the guilloche pattern adorning the dial is entirely new and distinctive, mimicking the graceful vertical lines of flying birds as described by the artist. This intricate pattern extends to the hour markers, resulting in a unified canvas of guilloche that exudes cleanliness and offers a visually satisfying experience when appreciating the artistry of the watch.
Estimate CHF 60,000 – 90,000
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Only Watch
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Only Watch
Maurice Lacroix presents the Masterpiece for Only Watch 2023, boasting an in-house movement that has been skillfully skeletonized to reveal its intricate mechanics, highlighted by the prominent balance wheel positioned at eight o’clock. A notable feature of the Masterpiece is its off-centered dial, reminiscent of the iconic Lange 1, with the time-telling sub-dials positioned on the right side of the dial. As a special touch for this occasion, the Masterpiece is adorned with a transparent sapphire case, a material that, while not entirely groundbreaking, remains relatively uncommon in the world of watchmaking.
Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000
Montblanc 1858 Géosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2N Only Watch
The spirit of mountain climbing continues with this Montblanc timepiece featuring an innovative new case material, CARBO2N. Montblanc reveals that the case is made using a pioneering technological development that captures CO2 and mixes it with ultra-light carbon fiber to create a new composite material, CARBO2N. Sized at a robust 43mm, it comes with a luminous glacier blue outline of Mount Everest on the side, facing the wearer at all times. It also has a ceramic bidirectional bezel and a case back made of titanium.
Montblanc 1858 Géosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2N Only Watch
Inside, the Montblanc automatic caliber MB29.25 provides the time as well as the manufacture’s signature world time display simultaneously showing the Northern and Southern hemispheres. It has a black interchangeable textile strap made of 80% recycled material. The buyer of this unique timepiece will also receive an ice pick from Montblanc Mark Maker, the world record-breaking alpinist, Nimsdai Purja, plus a handwritten note from Purja, delivered with the watch in an ice-like capsule.
Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000
Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Only Watch
One of the most underrated fine watchmaking houses today, Moritz Grossmann has done well to establish its own modern legacy, built on a solid foundation of product excellence and traditional craftsmanship. Watches in its Benu Heritage line are also fast becoming objects of watch collectors’ deepest desires. They offer finely crafted hands, elaborate movement construction, lavish finishing (most striking of all is the triple-band sailing of its ratchet wheel) and hand-engraving, including Moritz Grossmann’s signature Tremblage finishing on German silver which nothing short of breath-taking no matter from which direction you’re looking at it.
Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Only Watch
For Only Watch, Moritz Grossmann has created a pièce unique Tremblage made in 41mm stainless steel, with a height of 11.35mm. The German silver dial here offers the usual raised hour numerals, M. Grossmann logo and seconds circle. But instead of the standard flat polish finish, the manufacture went with a finely brushed finish just for Only Watch, as indicated by the Only Watch tribute at 6 o’clock. As a result, the entire rhodium-plated tremblage surface appears beautifully matt. And just for Only Watch, Moritz Grossmann will deliver this watch on a hand-sewn brown kudu leather strap fitted with prong buckle in stainless steel.
Estimate CHF 30,000 – 45,000
Patek Philippe
November is not just the month of the Only Watch auction. It is also the month of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. It is also the month of Dubai Watch Week. But more importantly for Patek Philippe, it is the month of Philippe Stern’s birthday. This year, the senior Mr Stern will celebrate his 85th birthday and along with the festivities, his son, president of the company Thierry Stern, wants to dedicate something very special to him. The plan? To create an exclusive limited edition wristwatch with his favorite grand complication which will feature an entirely new movement.
But that’s not all. After creating this tribute piece, that movement is to never be used again. “This is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe,” says Thierry Stern. In honour of the great man, Patek Philippe will produce 30 examples of this monumental timepiece, the first of which will go to Only Watch featuring a unique design. At the time of writing, the manufacture has not revealed any details of this watch, so watch this space for updates coming soon.
Estimate To be advised
Perrelet Turbine Chrono X Only Watch
An exclusive chronograph developed by Perrelet for charity, the Turbine Chrono X Only Watch stands out in a bright blue hue – one of the event’s official colors of the year. Like all Perrelet signature creations, this one comes with a turbine of 12 black anodized blades functioning on a ball bearing system, providing a fun visual display every time you move your wrist.
Perrelet Turbine Chrono X Only Watch
Yet by now you might be wondering where all the sub-dials are since this is a chronograph timepiece. Well Perrelet has done away with the conventional two- or three-counter format, choosing instead a single central counter in the form of a rotating sapphire crystal disc recording elapsed minutes. Not only does this allow the brand to retain its signature rotating turbine mechanism, it also ensures that you always get a full unobstructed view of its hypnotic movement even while the chronograph is running.
Estimate CHF 15,000 – 20,000
Petermann Bédat X Auffret Paris Chronomètre d’Observatoire
Everyone loves it when two independent watchmakers collaborate. This three-hand chronometer watch based on an adapted Zenith 135 movement provides all the trappings of Petermann Bédat’s signature design language and Auffret Paris’ aesthetic codes. Specifically, you can expect the former’s beautiful swan-neck regulator system as well as the latter’s famous click system and charbonnage at the surface of the bridges. Final images of the watch isn’t out yet, but initial sketches look really promising, so watch this space for updates.
Petermann Bédat X Auffret Paris Chronomètre d’Observatoire
Meanwhile, per the description from the makers, it will have a dial in flame-whitened solid silver, black lacquer engraved and adorned with rose gold indexes. Hour and minute hands will be crafted in rose gold as well, and the seconds hand will come in flame-blued steel. The case is a 38.3mm in steel with soldered lugs. We also understand that the Fleury manufacture was involved in this collaboration, responsible for the precise machining of the timepiece’s main components.
Estimate CHF 50,000 – 100,000
Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty
Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty
An ultra-thin skeletonised timepiece in gold? Not many brands are capable of such a piece, and one that immediately comes to mind is Piaget. For Only Watch 2023, the manufacture dedicates this elegant Polo model while dressing it in a lively colorway consisting of green, blue and rose gold all over the bridges of its Caliber 1200S1. This design pays homage to the creative brilliance of Hungarian-French artist, Victor Vasarely, whose 1979 artwork Hexa Grace is displayed on the roof of the Monaco Convention Center. Cased in 42mm rose gold and measuring just 6.5mm in thickness, it is delivered on a blue interchangeable strap specially designed for Only Watch.
Estimate CHF 50,000 – 80,000
Reservoir X Telos Watch Edition Only Watch 2023 Tiefenmesser Tourbillon
Taking inspiration from nautical measuring instruments of the last century – think depth gauges abroad submarines, compasses, and the like – the Tiefenmesser Tourbillon features a bronze case and a regulator-type white enamel dial. Per Reservoir’s signature style, it has a jumping hour time display with a 240-degree retrograde minute hand.
Reservoir X Telos Watch Edition Only Watch 2023 Tiefenmesser Tourbillon
More importantly, this is the brand’s very first tourbillon, thanks to a fruitful collaboration with Telos Watch, founded in 2009 by watchmakers Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin. Through the open case back, you’ll find more tributes to old marine instruments, such as the oscillating weight in brass and engraved with indications found on engine controls of old submarines. The buyer of this timepiece will also be invited to visit the Telos Watch atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, joined by Reservoir founder François Moreau.
Estimate CHF 50,000 – 60,000
Ressence Type 12 Only Watch 2023
Capturing the essence of order and disorder, Ressence presents this unique DNA-inspired dial symbolising the pursuit of a cure. This is a watch that embodies a profound message of hope and victory. Representing genetic anomaly the dial features a blue painted DNA chain against a silver background, and relying on Ressence’s signature revolving discs, the picture assembles and disassembles with the passage of time.
Every Sunday at midnight, all the discs align to depict a healthy DNA chain, sparking hope for a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Also deeply inspiring is the notion that every passing second brings us ever closer to victory over the disease. The Type 12 Only Watch 2023 is made in 41mm polished grade 5 titanium, and has a double-domed sapphire crystal top.
Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique
Independent watchmaking superstar and founder of Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi has so much to be proud of, not least his major win at last year’s GPHG for Best Men’s Watch and also the Revolutionary of the Year 2022 presented by our own founder Wei Koh. But never has he entertained the possibility of kicking back and resting on his laurels, and year after year Rexhepi continues producing watches that are ever more phenomenal. His entry for Only Watch 2023 is a precision wristwatch bearing all of his signature hallmarks, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique.
Both a tribute to historical antimagnetic chronometers and a practical timekeeper for modern life, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique offers magnetism protection using a quaint yet highly effective solution: a Faraday cage. This involves placing the movement within a wire mesh construct known as a Faraday cage, which serves to provide resistance against electric fields.
Images of the timepiece have yet to be released at time of writing, but according to official sources, Rexhepi will debut an original movement within a 38mm stainless steel case made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop. Its dial, too, promises something spectacular, drawing inspiration from “scientific” dials of historical chronometers. The watch will come with a removable screw-down back, allowing its wearer to admire the movement, as well as a private guided tour of Geneva old town with a specialist historian, along with a tour of Atelier Akrivia and lunch with Rexhepi.
Estimate CHF 100,000 – 150,000
Richard Mille Talisman Origine RM S14
Continuing with artistic director Cécile Guenat’s creative vision incorporating a talisman motif to the dial and movement construction, this unique piece by Richard Mille evokes the power of historical relics of a bygone era and the spiritual beauty surrounding ancient folklore… Except that the present is actually the distant past, for the Talisman Origine RM S14 prompts you to delve into your imagination and consider an alternative reality where you’ve time-travelled thousands of years into the future. Given the perpetual nature of mechanical timepieces, perhaps it isn’t that farfetched an idea.
Richard Mille Talisman Origine RM S14
Designed to be worn around the neck, its red gold case and necklace is fully hand engraved and integrates rhodonite, marble and Swiss grapevine wood set on Grade 5 titanium threaded on metal and rubber string.
Estimate CHF 600,000 – 800,000
Singer Reimagined X Genus 8-Track Watch for Only Watch
Motor racing aficionados will be thrilled by this dynamic collaboration between Singer Reimagined and Genus. The pièce unique 8-Track Watch for Only Watch speeds along the dual laneways of timekeeping passion and high adrenaline motor sports. Its hefty 43mm cushion-shaped case in stainless steel, with height of 15.46mm, draws creative codes from iconic watches of the 60s and 70s – undoubtedly some of the most beautiful years for motor racing. It even has an 18K gold micro-sculpture that moves along the infinity 8-shaped track.
Singer Reimagined X Genus 8-Track Watch for Only Watch
Everything that sits under the sapphire crystal is all part of the Genus GxS-23-Ru movement – a deeply mesmerizing caliber that uses rotating number discs in place of conventional hour and minute hands for which two patents have been filed. The winning bidder of this timepiece also gets to enjoy a one-of-a-kind experience at a motorsport event of his or her choice: the Goodwood Festival of Speed 2024 or Monterey Car Week 2024 at the Laguna Seca Raceway.
Estimate CHF 100,000 – 120,000
Speake Marin Ripples Blue Royal
Emphasizing the emotional significance of time, Speake Marin intended the Ripples Blue Royal as a radiant tribute of hope. That distinct and characteristic blue you’re seeing is synonymous with Speake Marin’s quintessential style, and achieved through the meticulous process of blue PVD with a galvanic underlayer. Its rhodium plated hour hand is gracefully shaped like a heart, gently curved over the sparkling blue dial.
Speake Marin Ripples Blue Royal
Designed by Stephane Lacroix for Speake Marin, this watch features a hand-crafted wave pattern on the dial, colored blue for the very first time. Exclusively for Only Watch, the brand crafts the 40.3mm case in stainless steel, and uses this material for the Caliber SMA03-T20 movement as well. The Only Watch 2023 engraving on its case back was done by master engraver Boris Nemitz.
Estimate CHF 35,000 – 65,000
Sylvain Pinaud Origine – Only Watch Edition
Much ink has already been spilled about Sylvain Pinaud’s magnificent Origine, with its stunning extra-long balance bridge and extra-large 13.2mm diameter balance wheel. This proudly handmade watch was first presented in 2022 at the AHCI exhibition in L’iceBergues, and expresses Pinaud’s personal philosophy in watchmaking where all components can be made using traditional machinery. For him this is how he knows that everything is reliable, and that form will naturally follow function. As such Pinaud describes the Origine as “a watchmaker’s watch.”
Sylvain Pinaud Origine – Only Watch Edition
For Only Watch, he designs a one-off model for charity that includes two things that always spark passionate discussions among watch lovers: guilloche and flame-bluing. Pinaud offers a beautiful two-tone dial decorated with traditional guilloche in a personal and contemporary pattern. Special attention was also paid to the different shades of blue used for the off-centered dial and seconds display. Traditional flame-bluing is done on the hands as well as parts of the balance bridge, but just very discreetly. Other details not to be missed are the frosted finish on the base plate, beautifully bevelled edges, and black polishing around the balance bridge and steel cartouche.
Estimate CHF 70,000 – 100,000
TAG Heuer Monaco Rattrapante Only Watch
Not called Techniques d’Avant Garde without a reason, TAG Heuer debuts its first-ever rattrapante chronograph as a pièce unique for Only Watch, proving that its R&D division has been hard at work staying focused on top-shelf timekeeping complications. This could also be a hint towards more of such high-concept products in the pipelines, and knowing the immense horological ambitions of Frédéric Arnault plus the technical genius of Carole Kasapi, it would be only natural. After all, TAG Heuer had made some great inroads with cutting-edge horology in the past.
TAG Heuer Monaco Rattrapante Only Watch
For now let’s look at the Monaco Rattrapante Only Watch. Presenting an evolution of the iconic Monaco’s case design, the TAG Heuer team took design inspiration from the original model of 1969 while imbuing it with a contemporary aesthetic based on an avant-garde mindset. Look at the case, which is made of texturized titanium, a material crafted in the TAG Heuer Institute specifically for this timepiece. Strong lines and crisp edges highlight the massive sapphire crystal and case back. The movement, Caliber TH81-00 is also constructed in titanium. Ceramic crown, pushers and protectors further underscore its technical spirit.
The buyer of this unique timepiece will also be invited on an all-expenses paid trip to the 2024 Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Estimate CHF 150,000 – 300,000
Tiffany & Co. Bird On A Rock Mechanical Pendant Watch
Stepping bolding into the world of haute horlogerie, Tiffany & Co. selected the perfect object to highlight three important messages. One, its unassailable jewelry crafting savoir-faire as applied to its trend-setting collections as well as exquisite high jewelry creations. Two, its beautiful history and heritage with Parisian-American designer Jean Schlumberger — always a favorite topic among jewelry lovers. And finally, its imaginative ability to marry jewelry with other product universes, as seen with this pièce unique pendant watch.
Fans of the American jeweller will immediately recognize the famous Bird on a Rock motif perched nonchalantly atop the yellow gold case with a beautiful faceted light blue aquamarine (over 34 carats) performing the role of watch’s crystal. The adorable parakeet in platinum with its signature feather tuft has been given a new lease of life, something that Tiffany & Co. had started earlier this year with its Bird on a Pearl collection. Complete with a snow-set diamond dial, it offers a mechanical movement and is worn on a yellow gold and diamond chain.
Estimate CHF 350,000 – 500,000
Trilobe Réconciliation
Inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi, the Trilobe Réconciliation embodies the philosophy of embracing life’s imperfections. In this new version of the iconic Une Folle Journée, impact marks on the rings and movement are manually cut and chiselled by a craftsman watchmaker. The same pair of hands also applied the hammered finish on the bridges, plate and symbolic rings. Finally, the cavities are gilded by hand using fine 22K gold.
Trilobe Réconciliation
With a 40.5mm diameter, the watch is cased in titanium with mirror polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments. Its domed bezel with sapphire crystal arch over concentric rings of blackened titanium offering a spectacular view of the movement, Caliber X-Centric with micro rotor.
Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000
Tudor Prince Chronograph One
For Tudor, Only Watch is that one chance every two years where it can go a little crazy with design executions and ideas it otherwise would not normally do. The usual milieu for this brand veers closer to notions of value, reliability and robustness, which often means its watches are made with performance-oriented materials such as stainless steel, titanium and ceramic. But for its pièce unique for Only Watch 2023, the manufacture went for broke with a full solid yellow gold construct powered by a brand-new prototype manufacture chronograph movement. That’s the equivalent of seeing the serious kid in class take his shirt and glasses off, and you realize the whole time he’s the one you really shouldn’t mess around with.
Tudor Prince Chronograph One
This Tudor Prince Chronograph One is a modern interpretation of a 70s classic known as the “Big Block” chronograph, the first Tudor automatic chronograph released in 1976. While the original Big Blocks were powered by the then-new Valjoux 7750 movements this special piece brings with it a prototype of Tudor’s first fully in-house manufactured column-wheel chronograph calibre which is so new it hasn’t even been properly christened yet. Visible through the open case back, the new calibre MT59XX with silicon hairspring and 70-hour power reserve is numbered “number 0” reflecting its status as a prototype movement.
Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Only Watch
A marvel, a spaceship on the wrist. These descriptors have long been used to refer to the Ulysse Nardin Freak, but this might be the manufacture’s most “far out” Freak creation ever. Based on the Freak S first launched in 2022, this unique timepiece has a double oscillator in silicon and a double escapement in DiamonSIL. It also includes a vertical differential and a “Grinder” automatic winding mechanism which, according to the manufacture, is twice as effective as a traditional rotor winding system.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Only Watch
Celebrating the occasion that is Only Watch 2023, Ulysse Nardin refreshed the movement Caliber UN-251 with vibrant on-theme colors of the rainbow. Measuring 45mm in diameter with a height of 13.66mm, this watch in black ceramic and black DLC titanium is worn on a blue “ballistic” rubber strap but comes with an added black alligator with rainbow colored stitching.
Estimate CHF 160,000 – 200,000
URWERK Space-Time Blade for Only Watch
Science fiction meets time-telling? Here’s one for all the self-professed watch nerds out there. URWERK sets out to redefine the essence of time as you’ve never seen it before, allowing you to literally wield the hours, minutes, seconds and more with your own two hands. Indeed, the Space-Time Blade not only displays the time but also the distance of Earth’s spinning – in kilometres. Sorry in advance to North Americans not used to the metric system, but we think it’s a small inconvenience in exchange for a chance to own one of the coolest time-space devices on the planet.
URWERK Space-Time Blade for Only Watch
Creation of the Space-Time Blade was achieved in collaboration with nixie tube craftsman Dalibor Farny whose extraordinary talent blends artistry and precision. Nixie tubes are also known as cold cathode displays where a wire-mesh anode and multiple cathodes shaped like numerals are encased within glass tubes. Here, URWERK and Farny have jointly created a glass capsule of approximately 2 meters, set on a bronze pedestal functioning effectively as the hilt of this incredible horological object.
Estimate CHF 45,000 – 80,000
Voutilainen CSW Only Watch
You’ve got to hand it to Voutilainen. Even though it is one of the earliest names to enter the independent watchmaking scene, every time the team behind sets out to create something completely new, it’s like we’re rediscovering the brand all over again. Fans of Voutilainen know its many creations by heart, and will attest that the majority of them are round cased watches — with three exceptions. The rectangular Chronomètre 27, the barrel-cased Tonneau and a single-piece pocket watch from 2019 co-created by Kari and Venla. And this third timepiece with a cushion-shaped case was the one that inspired the father-and-daughter team to create their 2023 unique piece for charity, the CSW Only Watch.
Voutilainen CSW Only Watch
Made of titanium, with light satin finish and polished surfaces, it features a completely new world time caliber, TMZ217, which is an evolution from the previous Vingt-8 caliber. Pressing the crown conveniently allows you to adjust the world time mechanism. The 39mm X 39mm case is secured by four screws on both sides, but nothing is going to take any attention away from the beautiful silver dial in a vibrant green hue. Guilloché decorated with a center trivague along with sunburst finishing on the outer ring, this is an amazing timepiece for modern collectors of independent watches.
Estimate CHF 175,000 – 215,000
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set
Since its introduction in 2021, Zenith’s wildly popular Chronomaster Sport has only gotten more popular among watch enthusiasts waiting the manufacture to finally create an El Primero chronograph designed for modern lifestyles. With its white dial and contrasting chronograph counters, polished ceramic tachymeter bezel and integrated steel bracelet, the Chronomaster Sport definite high all the high notes of contemporary watchmaking.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set
Espousing the same sporty spirit for Only Watch is this set of four Chronomaster Sport models, dressed in bright happy colours that will undoubtedly spark joy. The four references each feature a coloured ceramic bezel in yellow, green, blue and red, all paired with matching dials. Notably, red and yellow ceramic bezels are a first for the manufacture. Providing 1/10th of a second accuracy is one of Zenith’s all-time classics, the El Primero 3600 automatic column-wheel chronograph movement.
Estimate CHF 45,000 – 55,000
