Time to Move: Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon SQ 5395By Suan Futt Yeo
This year, the Swatch Group pulled out of Baselworld to stage its own event called Time To Move. Here are 2019 novelties from Breguet.
Classique Tourbillon SQ 5395
Breguet’s innovation and mastery of mechanics and aesthetics is amply demonstrated here, a slim, skeletonized tourbillon offering unobstructed views of splendid hand decoration with the convenience of a self-winding movement. At 3mm in height, the cal. 581 has been used in earlier Breguet watches, the ref. 5377 and ref. 5367, but is being used for the first time in a fully skeletonized watch. Some 50 percent of material has been excised from the movement, which delivers 80 hours of power reserve. By having a peripheral winding rotor, the cal. 581 not only makes the SQ 5395 elegantly slim, the view of the movement through the caseback is also unblocked.
The tourbillon with silicon escapement is itself a technical feat: the carriage is driven directly by the gear train rather than via a pinion at its base, and it is constructed from titanium, making it very light, at 0.290g. We expect this to have some part in explaining how the cal. 581 can achieve 80 hours of power reserve while running at an unusually brisk (for a tourbillon) 4Hz.
Skeletonised self-winding cal. 581; gold plates and bridges; titanium tourbillon carriage; silicon escapement and balance spring; peripheral rotor; 80 hours power reserve; 4hz
41mm rose gold or platinum case with fluted caseband; 7.70mm height; water resistant to 3 bar (30m)
Alligator leather with folding buckle in gold
Reine de Naples 8967
One of the most recognisable women’s watches, Breguet’s uniquely (and deliciously) oval Reine de Naples gets a stunning blue dial that was created in a feat somewhat like latte art. The dramatic storm of turquoise swirls within a sea of deep blue began as an application of clear lacquer on still-liquid dar material. In this way, the colors mix spontaneously to make each dial unique.
While it grabs one’s attention with visual flair, the 8967 is also more than able on the technical front. The 4hz self-winding 591C beating within features silicon escapement and balance spring for precision and reliability and is tested in six positions.
Self-winding 591C; 38 hours power reserve; silicon balance spring and escapement; 4hz; adjusted in six positions
Steel case with fluted caseband; water resistant to 3 bar (30m)
Blue denim fabric strap with steel folding buckle
The Marine collection of sporty, robust, titanium-cased timepieces now get a bracelet they ought to have: in titanium, all the better to weather the rigors of life in a marine environment where the air and water is salty… and corrosive. Beautifully brushed to complement the Marine’s brushed case and polished bezel.