A. Lange & Söhne’s luminous saga started in 2010 with the launch of the extraordinary, Zeitwerk “Luminous” ref. 140.035. The timepiece featured the Zeitwerk in a platinum case powered by the initial caliber L043.3 — an alternate of the L043.1, differentiating only in the mechanism used for the adjustment of the balance spring. It had a black PVD-coated time bridge in German silver and it set the tone for future “Lumen” pieces to have this signature “smoked” sapphire crystal dial. The watch was limited to a run of just 100 pieces.

What is interesting to recall here is that when the Zeitwerk itself was launched In 2009, it wasn’t exactly a creation that was well received right off the bat. Referencing the launch of the Zeitwerk, langepedia.com records, “Although Lange produced some conversational pieces the conversation was almost purely around mechanics or wearability or thickness etc. but not out of the perceived image or the looks. A controversy as ‘this is not Lange’ was not heard — until 2009.”

langepedia.com goes on to say further than rather than shy away from the initial sentiments around the Zeitwerk, Lange chose to ride the bull and launched the “Luminous” ref. 140.035 in the next year. Today, the watch, the complication and the combination of this unique use of lume on the Zeitwerk has, of course, so enamoured the watch community that it’s bestowed the timepiece with the uber cool moniker, Phantom.

Lange followed through on the Zeitwerk “Luminous” with the Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” ref. 117.035 in 2013 (200 pieces), the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen” ref. 139.035F in 2016 (200 pieces) and in 2018, with the Datograph UP/DOWN “Lumen” ref. 405.034 (200 pieces). Now make a note for yourself to realise that all of Lange’s Lumen pieces have thus far, maintained this black and white color theme to extenuate their lume in dark. Every Lumen model launched till have all been executed, in fact, in platinum. That is until today.

Enter the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” ref. 142.055, a limited edition of 200 pieces. Honeygold — very quickly — is proprietary patented gold alloy that Lange has used for the cases of very select timepiece to date. Its name is derived from the superbly warm hue that it exudes. However, not just the warm and fuzzies, Honeygold also boasts “extraordinary hardness” higher than that of traditional yellow gold, according to Lange. Which therefore makes the material harder to work with and shape into Lange’s cases.

While the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen“ ref. 142.055 is the first instance of a Lumen watch in Honeygold, it is also only the second instance of a Zeitwerk in Honeygold. The other being, the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike Honeygold ref. 143.050.

We must now take a moment to discuss the movement that’s being used for the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen“ ref. 142.055. It is the newly developed Calibre L043.9. It maintains the Zeitwerk’s instant minutes and hour displays, all of which is kept in line thanks to the incredible patented constant-force escapement that was created to manage the immense energy and its dissipation required by the Zeitwerk. The L043.9 now also incorporates the a pusher at 4 o’clock for quick setting of the hour display (first introduced in the Zeitwerk Date). This is achieved by a clutch that uncouples the hour ring from the jumping numerals mechanism each time the pusher is pressed. The movement also boasts 72 hours of power reserve now, up from the 36 in the basic Zeitwerk’s L043.1 movement.

Lastly, we can’t end without mentioning the “smoked” sapphire crystal dial of the watch which allows enough UV light to pass through and thus provide the light energy needed to charge the lumed numerals and therein enable the light show that is the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen’s” digital time display.

Tech Specs

Tech Specs

Ref: 142.055

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.9, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance and escape-wheel cocks engraved by hand; minute jump via constant-force escapement; crown for winding the watch and setting the time; pusher for rapid correction of the hour indication; 72-hour power reserve when fully wound

Case & dial: diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.6 millimetres; case in Honeygold®; coated sapphire crystal dial with Honeygold® hands

Strap: Hand-stitched leather in dark brown with prong buckle in Honeygold®.

Limitation: 200-piece numbered limited edition to be sold only at A. Lange & Söhne boutiques

More information: alange-soehne.com