To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Datograph Perpetual, originally introduced in 2006 as the brand’s first watch to combine a chronograph and perpetual calendar, A. Lange & Söhne has released a rather special limited edition. Limited to 50 pieces, the latest version brings back the platinum case and bracelet of the original, complemented by baguette-cut diamond hour markers against a stark black dial.

A little bling never hurts. (Image: Revolution ©)

Return to the original

The original Datograph Perpetual debuted in 2006 with a platinum case and silver dial, with a bracelet available as an option. It was discontinued in 2011. The anniversary edition brings back both features, though the bracelet is arguably the more significant of the two.

While bracelets were once a regular offering across the Lange’s collection, they have largely disappeared from its modern, dressier watches. Today, the sporty Odysseus is the only model with bracelet options, making this Datograph Perpetual an unusual proposition.

Despite sharing the same basic construction of multiple rows of small links, the new bracelet differs considerably from the original. The original had curvier links, while the new one adopts a squarer design closer to the Odysseus. This reflects the brand’s broader design evolution, away from the Art Deco styling of its early days – exemplified by the Roman numeral markers on the first-generation Datograph Perpetual, later replaced by baton indices – towards a cleaner, more clinical style. The new bracelet suits this look, though some collectors may miss the character of the original.

A magnificent platinum bracelet. (Image: A. Lange & Söhne)

The biggest novelty, however, is the use of diamond hour markers, a first for the Datograph Perpetual. While the German watchmaker has produced several diamond-set versions of the Datograph in its earlier years, its more complicated sibling had never received this treatment. Here, baguette-cut diamonds replace the metal baton indices. Their sparkle works particularly well against the black dial, adding distinction without compromising the watch’s serious appearance. It is a very Lange take on luxury.

Diamonds are an unusual move for A. Lange & Söhne. (Image: Revolution ©)

The rest of the watch is unchanged from the regular-production models. It measures 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm in height, and is powered by the manually wound calibre L952.1, which has served the collection for many years. With its slow 2.5 Hz beat rate and 36-hour power reserve, the movement is almost a living fossil by modern standards, but that is part of its appeal: it remains unapologetically classical. And of course, the beautifully layered architecture and finishing make one forget about everything else.

Always gorgeous. (Image: Revolution ©)

A unique perpetual calendar chronograph

One of the most distinctive aspects of Lange’s perpetual calendar chronograph is that it looks nothing like its peers, which typically employ three counters. Instead, the Datograph Perpetual retains the twin-counter arrangement of the original Datograph. 

Despite its compact layout, it is surprisingly legible because the information is presented in layers. The most important indication, the date, is given prominence in the signature outsize display at 12 o’clock. The day of the week and month follow, displayed in the twin counters at 4 and 8 o’clock, respectively. Less prominent indications, such as the day/night indicator and leap year, are tucked into tiny sub-dials within the counters. A beautiful moon-phase display sits at 6 o’clock.

Subtle diamond hour markers. (Image: A. Lange & Söhne)

The functions are equally well considered from a user perspective. The flyback chronograph allows the user to reset and restart a measurement without first stopping it, a feature still uncommon even among high-end chronographs.

Lange has also made setting the perpetual calendar a relatively painless affair, offering two ways to bring it up to date. A pusher at 10 o’clock advances all the indications at once, handy when the watch has been off the wrist for just a few days. After a longer spell in the drawer, recessed correctors allow each indication to be adjusted separately, sparing the wearer from having to press the pusher hundreds of times to reach the correct date.

Careful thought has gone into preventing accidental operation, too. The rapid-correction pusher works only when the crown is pulled out, so it cannot be triggered when the watch rests on its side. Between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m., it is disabled altogether, when adjustments could damage the mechanism.

Tech Specs: Datograph Perpetual
Reference: 410.136E
Movement: L952.1; manual winding; 36 hours power reserve; 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar
Case: 41 mm x 13.5 mm; platinum
Bracelet: Platinum bracelet
Limited edition: 50 pieces