As Watches & Wonders 2023 kicks off, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin is turning heads with a collection of timepieces that celebrate the brand’s haute horlogerie roots by showcasing a classic yet rarely seen complication: the retrograde date.

Amidst the array of new models, one watch truly stands out — the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. This timepiece marks a milestone for the Overseas collection as it’s the first to feature a retrograde display. Plus, the charming moonphase and retrograde date brings a touch of sophistication to the sporty-elegant line of Overseas watches, making it even more compelling.

The Low-Down

A retrograde display is an interesting feature where the indicator moves along a non-circular scale, requiring it to return to its original position at the end of the scale. On the latest Overseas, the retrograde date features a fan-shaped scale at 12 o’clock that spans almost 180 degrees, with a dark blue date pointer gracefully gliding along the arc before flying back to its origin at the end of each month.

While ultimately serving as a date display, the retrograde date introduces several layers of visual interest to the watch. Unlike a typical digital date disc with a window, the retrograde date’s scale creates a more integrated and refined look, with the date becoming part of the overall dial design. The dynamic motion of the date indicator also makes the practical complication more engaging to watch.

Beneath the retrograde date is the moon phase, a feature that is already prevalent in the Overseas line but has never stood out until now. This is because earlier moon phases are found in the perpetual calendar models, which makes them smaller and more subtle. Here, the oversized moonphase takes centre stage and enhances the watch’s romantic appeal, which is an unexpected and appealing feature for a sports watch.

As a sports-chic watch, the Overseas Moon Phase boasts a confident appearance at 41 mm wide, while still displaying an element of restraint. At just 10.48 mm thick, the watch maintains an ideal aspect ratio against the case width, appearing sleek yet not too flat.

Inside the watch is the brand’s cal. 2460 R31L/2, an automatic movement with classic construction and finishing, complete with a luxurious 22k gold rotor. The watch’s settings, including the moon phase, can be easily performed using the crown, eliminating the need to fiddle with small buttons on the case flank. The only downside is the limited power reserve of just 40 hours.

IMHO

While luxury sports watches with complications are common these days, the Overseas Moon Phase sets itself apart by incorporating two unusual features, the retrograde date and moon phase. More importantly, these complications are executed in a daring manner, with large symmetrical displays that proudly take center stage on the dial. As a result, the Overseas Moon Phase is one of the most interesting models in the collection and arguably one of the most unconventional integrated bracelet sports watches available today.

Tech Specs

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Movement: Val. 2460 R31L/2; automatic; 40 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date and moon phase
Case: 41 x 10.48 mm; steel; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Steel bracelet with additional calf skin and rubber strap