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Tudor at Watches & Wonders 2024, including the Black Bay 58 GMT

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Tudor at Watches & Wonders 2024, including the Black Bay 58 GMT

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Inching forward and delighting collectors.
Tudor works hard every year to satisfy its fans, and this year it certainly doesn’t disappoint because it has unveiled a range of sport watches from the long-awaited and expected – a very thin GMT – to the unexpectedly luxurious dive watch. Have a dive!

Black Bay 58 GMT

The thinnest and smallest GMT from Tudor has finally arrived: the Black Bay 58 GMT, boasting a case just 39 mm wide and 12.8 mm tall! It features a striking two-tone black and red bezel, making it the only “Coke” GMT watch across the entire Rolex group lineup.

Black Bay 58 GMT

Six years after the original 41 mm Black Bay GMT debuted at Baselworld 2018, and two years after the 39 mm Black Bay Pro was announced at Watches & Wonders 2022, Tudor has taken another step forward by downsizing the brand’s GMT watch. Both the BB GMT and BB Pro had a thickness of 14.6 mm, but the latest Black Bay 58 GMT shaves off nearly 2 mm in height – a significant improvement – thanks to the new movement within, the METAS-certified MT5450-U.

Black Bay 58 GMT

Perhaps even more noteworthy than its amiable and compact sizing is the introduction of the new black and red bezel, affectionately known as the “Coke”. The “Coke” bezel insert was initially featured in Rolex’s GMT watch but disappeared from the collection in 2007. Now, it makes a return in the more affordable and funky Tudor format. Notably, the numerals on the bezel are gilt to give it a warmer look that complements the aluminum material, which always appears softer than the hard and cold ceramic insert.

 

Another cosmetic highlight of the watch is the “lollipop” seconds hand, replacing the “snowflake” seconds hand in previous iterations, resulting in a dial that appears less cluttered with too many “snowflakes” – it’s a refined look from every aspect. The best Tudor GMT has finally arrived, and the six-year wait is absolutely worth it!

Black Bay 58 GMT

Black Bay 58 GMT Watch Specifications

Movement: MT5450-U; automatic; 65 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, and date
Case: 39 mm x 12.8 mm; steel, water resistant to 200 m
Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap
Availability: At Tudor retailers and boutiques
Limited edition: No
Price: CHF 4,300 (bracelet); CHF 4,100 (strap)

Black Bay 58 18K

Another major development from Tudor is the brand’s very first solid gold bracelet! The Black Bay 58 18K represents both an expected yet surprising follow-up to the original gold version launched in 2021 on a strap. Expected because it is natural for the brand to eventually complete the look by adding a gold bracelet. Surprising, however, is the fact that the brand, considered the more affordable alternative to Rolex, has taken a major step up in luxury by boldly offering a solid gold watch from case to bracelet! 

Black Bay 58 18K

Setting aside these philosophical musings, the watch is undeniably a very handsome piece and fills a gap in the broader Rolex family – the new BB58 18K is the only solid gold watch with a green dial and bezel, and it’s exceptionally cool because it’s entirely matte.

Black Bay 58 18K

Black Bay 58 GMT Watch Specifications

Movement: MT5400; automatic; 70 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 39 mm x 12.7 mm; 18k yellow gold, water resistant to 200 m
Strap: 18k yellow gold bracelet
Limited edition: No
Price: CHF 30,000

Black Bay “Black”

Originally launched in 2012 as the inaugural model to the Black Bay family, the 41 mm Black Bay dive watch has received several upgrades over the years. Most notably, last year saw the introduction of a METAS certified movement as well as a five-link bracelet on the model with a burgundy bezel insert. Now, the new specs have landed in another iteration of the model, in the Black Bay “Black”.

Black Bay "Black"

The latest BB “Black” is a very different watch from its predecessor in terms of look and identity. It now boasts a cooler palette of black and silver, instead of the earlier black and gilt.

 

This also means that Tudor is developing its retro-inspired watch with a new identity, aiming for an unmistakably modern palette instead of solely focusing on the faux patina look. This is a forward-thinking move as it will create a watch that belongs to this era while still retaining the concepts and ideas of the past, and it will certainly age beautifully in its own way in the future.

Black Bay "Black"

Black Bay Watch Specifications

Movement: MT5602-U; automatic; 70 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 41 mm x 13.6 mm; steel, water resistant to 200 m
Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap
Limited edition: No
Price: CHF 4,250 (five-link bracelet); CHF 4,150 (three-link bracelet); CHF 3,950 (rubber strap)