Following the revamp of its Nautilus collection in late 2022, Patek Philippe has shifted its attention to upgrading the Aquanaut with new style and mechanical features. At Watches & Wonders 2023, the Geneva watchmaker unveils three new Aquanaut models, all fashioned from rose gold, including a brand-new reference that comes equipped with an annual calendar complication.

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R

The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar ref. 5261R is the stand out of the new Aquanaut releases as it is an all new reference. This is the first time Patek Philippe has included an annual calendar in the Aquanaut collection, specifically the Aquanaut Luce collection, highlighting the brand’s efforts to expand its range of women’s complicated watches beyond gemstone-studded timepieces.

In fact, the ref. 5261R strikes a balance between understated and high-end aesthetics thanks to the omission of gemstones and several thoughtful details. The warm rose gold case is paired with a stylish blue-grey dial, creating a contemporary, casual yet luxurious appearance that has been aptly described by the brand as “modern casual chic”. More importantly, the annual calendar display adds a touch of complexity to the dial, enhancing the watch’s overall refined look.

Although the brand has an abundance of annual calendar wristwatches – having invented the complication in 1997 – the new ref. 5261R manages to stand out with a subtle twist to its layout. Instead of the typical configuration, which combines the moon phase and date at six o’clock, Patek Philippe has opted for a new (and perhaps quirky) look achieved through an inversion of the annual calendar module.

This change results in the moon phase register moving to 12 o’clock, while the month and day register swap positions, creating a dial that’s unconventionally top-heavy. However, the date remains at six o’clock since it relies on a disc that encircles the dial, so inverting the module does not affect its position. Ultimately, the date’s location depends on the opening’s placement.

Tech Specs

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001

Movement: cal. 26‑330 S QA LU.; automatic; 35-45 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar, and moon phase
Case: 39.9 x 10.94 mm; 18k rose gold; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Blue-grey composite strap with 18k rose gold folding clasp

Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5268/200R

For collectors who prefer simpler watches without the added complexity of the annual calendar, there are several time-only models available in the Aquanaut Luce collection, such as the new ref. 5268/200R. The newest ref. 5268 sports a chocolate-coloured dial that complements the rose gold case, and like many of its counterparts, it features a diamond ring on the bezel, adding a dash of sparkle to the watch. However, unlike many of its counterparts, the latest is not a quartz watch. Instead, it is equipped with an automatic movement, the cal. 26-330, which is the same base movement used in the more complex Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar.

Tech Specs

Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5268/200R-010

Movement: cal. 26‑330 S C; automatic; 35-45 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 38.8 x 8.5 mm; 18k rose gold; water resistant to 120 m
Strap: Taupe composite strap with 18k rose gold folding clasp

Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968R

Patek Philippe has also updated the men’s Aquanaut Chronograph lineup, which is distinguished by a larger case size of 42.2 mm compared to the 39.9 mm case of the women’s Aquanaut Luce Chronograph. The latest ref. 5968R expands the precious metal choices by introducing a rose gold case option to the line up. This comes after the introduction of a pair of white gold models in 2021, which featured fashionable green and blue dials. Amongst the Aquanaut Chronograph lineup, the ref. 5968R is the only option with a coloured metal case, and it conveys a more luxurious feel with its rich brown dial and rose gold case.

Tech Specs

Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968R-001

Movement: CH 28‑520 C; automatic; 45-55 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flyback chronograph
Case: 42.2 x 11.9 mm; 18k rose gold; water resistant to 120 m
Strap: Dark brown composite strap with 18k rose gold folding clasp