Some milestones carry more weight than others, and a centenary is among the most impactful. Certainly it is for Panerai, which this year celebrated 100 years of its historic Florence boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, with an immersive exhibition at the Museo Marino Marini, an exhibition that offered a holistic exploration of the feel and essence of Panerai.

Panerai Florence boutique in Piazza San Giovanni

The “Orologeria Svizzera” will be familiar to Panerai cognoscenti: the famous black and white photograph of the Florentine shop front, with its ornate hand-painted signage, is a tangible link to the brand’s Italian heritage. But, as Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai’s Chief Marketing and Heritage Officer, explains, it’s only part of the brand’s early story. “The Orologeria Svizzera shop was opened in 1926, but at that time it was not a Panerai shop,  because Panerai was covered by military secrets. The family business was managed by the brother and sister. Maria Panerai was managing the Orologeria, which was just one door with four windows on the top. We have an historic picture with all the pocket watches and table clocks, because at the time there were not really wristwatches. This is only one side of the Panerai business; the other was overseen by Giuseppe Panerai, who was developing and producing instruments and then watches for the Italian Navy, but this was covered by military secrecy until 1993.”

The time for such secrecy has long since passed, and Panerai’s military history, along with its family story, diving expertise, adventurous spirit and maritime legacy were focal points in the “Immersion” exhibition, which took guests on a journey through the brand’s history. Ficarelli explains: “It’s a great way to discover a selection of artifacts, watches, instruments, documents and other items that are incredible today. We don’t yet have a museum, so it’s a great, rare opportunity to see this really important history up close.”

Panerai “Immersion” exhibition

Ficarelli explains that the exhibition does an excellent job of reflecting Panerai’s diverse identity, “So we have both the historic and the contemporary sides to the story. This exhibition is a great way to explore the world of Panerai, from the history to the value, to the statement on the wrist. It’s your ideal companion for any adventure. In addition to the historical items and artifacts, we display a mix of materials and new calibers that serve to illustrate the bridge between the past and the future. Our objective is to inject creativity and innovation in our collection, while always honoring our DNA.”

The Spirit of Firenze

Of course, it’s a time-honored tradition to celebrate a milestone with a special watch, so it should come as no surprise that Panerai has created not one, but two, limited edition references that celebrate not just the brand’s DNA, but also the city of Florence, known in Italian as Firenze, which is so crucial to the story of the brand. Those watches are the PAM01734 and PAM01794, both making use of the famous Luminor case in a 44mm size, and continue to express Panerai’s focus on the history and fundamentals of the model, with the classic silhouette, dial configuration and powerful manually wound movement, in a contemporary size.

Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni (©Revolution)

As to the origins of this reference, it’s inspired by the famous Ref. 6152/1, but Ficarelli can provide some additional insight not found in the press release. “Three years ago, before Watches and Wonders in Geneva, a collector and friend called and said he saw a wonderful prototype, and he wanted to show it to me. We met up in Geneva, and he showed me a wonderful prototype 6152. It was an amazing and unique watch, with tone-on-tone Panerai Firenze engraving on the dial. This version was unique because the crown bridge had been modified by hand with a file. He had all the documents from Giuseppe Panerai and his watchmaker at Villa Panerai that explained the story of this watch. The Italian Navy wanted to improve the grip on the crown, as the naval operators were wearing gloves, so the idea was to hand-file the bridge to improve the grip.”

A vintage Panerai Ref. 6152/1 (Image: Phillips)

The new references, PAM01734 and PAM01794, don’t feature this unique customization on the crown, but they do pay homage to the Ref. 6152/1. However, unlike other models in the brand’s catalog, these releases feel less like a trip down memory lane and more like a modern interpretation of a classic. PAM01734 is cased in Platinumtech and is obviously the more exclusive of the two, only made in 100 pieces, while the steel PAM01794 is limited to 1,000 pieces.

The dials on these releases are a nod to the rare prototype Ficarelli mentioned, with “Panerai Firenze” etched onto their circular-brushed surfaces (green for the platinum model and black for the steel model). Purists will appreciate the use of the famous sandwich-style construction and the familiar, vintage-inspired pencil hands in gold or blue, depending on the model.

Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni (©Revolution)

While the experiential brand exhibition “Immersion” in Florence might be the best way to explore the brand’s history and its relationship with the city of Florence, wearing one of these two limited editions on the wrist surely comes in a close second.

Tech Specs: Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734

Movement Manual winding Caliber P.5000; eight-day power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 44mm; Platinumtech; water resistant to 100m
Dial Green circular brushed; Arabic numerals and hour markers with Super-LumiNova coating
Strap Black calf with hot stamp inspired by the Florentine lily and brushed white gold trapezoidal buckle; additional green military caoutchouc
Price AUD 88,400 including taxes
Availability Limited edition of 100 pieces

Tech Specs: Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794

Movement Manual winding Caliber P.5000; eight-day power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 44mm; polished steel; water resistant to 300m
Dial Anthracite circular brushed; Arabic numerals and hour markers with Super-LumiNova coating
Strap Dark brown calf with hot stamp inspired by the Florentine lily and brushed steel trapezoidal buckle; additional black caoutchouc
Price AUD 17,200 including taxes
Availability Limited edition of 1,000 pieces