This is the brand-new, refined and completely redesigned Oris Aquis dive watch. If you know the collection well, you might be squinting right now—the differences aren’t readily apparent to the untrained eye. But put it on the wrist and you’ll start to get it. Then look closer, and you’ll see that this represents a thoughtful and thorough evolution of the brand’s flagship diver.

The second generation Aquis was introduced in 2017. It represented a design overhaul of the original model (launched in 2011), resulting in a more mature product with broader appeal. The third generation is less of a transformation, but reconsiders nearly every element to improve the overall experience. Oris has applied these changes across three case sizes, each with different color options and even in a special Upcycle model using recycled plastic for its dial.

The most impactful element of the new model is its case which has a slimmer feel on the wrist. This is slightly odd, since its dimensions actually show that it’s technically slightly thicker. This is the power of design and ergonomics, one supposes. For the 43.4mm model, the thickness is 13.1mm which is up from 12.5mm. The 41.5mm and 36.5mm models are 12.9mm and 12.2mm, respectively.

Elsewhere, nearly every element seems to have been tweaked, even if very subtly. Every model will match the date wheel to the dial color, and that’s the kind of feature a lot of enthusiasts can get behind. Oris also points out that everything from the hands and indices have been reconsidered, but you’d probably have to put models from each generation side by side and examine them with a loupe to spot the differences. For example, there’s a new proprietary font, which will be only used on the Aquis dial text going forward.

The three sizes feature traditional colors with the two larger diameters offering blue, green or black colorways and the smaller model has dials with black or a creamy hue of mother-of-pearl. In addition to the traditional colors is the Upcycled model which features a dial made of recycled plastic showing unique mixes of color for an avant-garde look. This model will be available in a couple sizes and versions, including those with the Oris 733 (Sellita SW200-based) automatic movement and with the brand’s own in-house Calibre 400. The Calibre 400 movement is also available as an upgrade option for the 43.5mm models, while the others will all feature the 733.

Though subtle, the differences in the new generation Aquis will hopefully translate into the kind of refinement that will come through with ownership and over time. And this is exactly the kind of watchmaking dedicated enthusiasts tend to appreciate. We’re happier if a watch can be made even better in small ways than for a brand to make big, unnecessary changes just to grab your attention. The Oris Aquis wasn’t a model that needed massive fixing, and now it’s even better—if subtly so.

Movement: Oris 733 (Sellita SW200) automatic; Oris Calibre 400 automatic
Case: 43.5mm, 41.5mm, 36.5mm; 300m water resistance
Dial: Blue, green, black, mother of pearl (36.5mm model), upcycled plastic
Availability: Not limited
Price: CHF 2,200 (with Oris 733); CHF 3,600 (with Calibre 400); CHF 3,750 (Upcycle)