Oris at Watches and Wonders 2026: The Star is Reborn and the Artelier Complication returns
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Oris at Watches and Wonders 2026: The Star is Reborn and the Artelier Complication returns
Oris never fails to surprise when it comes to its annual Watches & Wonders release schedule — the independent maker is capable of leaning into its eco cred one year, rapidly pivoting to Miss Piggy the next. This year, the brand has highlighted more classic — yet still surprising releases. The Artelier collection is back, and leading the urban dress parade is an assured moon and date model. Meanwhile, the Oris star looks back to one of the most meaningful chapters in the brand’s history — a decade-long legal struggle pioneered by Dr Rolf Portman, who worked to overcome unfair industrial legislation that prevented the brand from innovating. Eventually, Portman succeeded, and the first watch Oris created in its new era was the Oris Star — and this year, we get a faithful recreation of the seminal 1966 model.
The Oris Star Edition
The back story for this tasty little retro design is, much like George Lucas’ tariff and embargo-packed opening crawl in Star Wars: The Phantom Menace, a little convoluted, but strangely relevant for 2026. The Oris Star is an incredibly important watch in Oris’ history, not for its technical prowess or pioneering design, but for its symbolism in overturning draconian laws.
We need to go back to the 1930s, to the introduction of the Swiss Watch Statute — an anti-competition law born from the Great Depression that effectively enshrined an industrial status quo, and quashed innovation. For Oris, this law meant that they were limited to using the cheap and less accurate pin-lever escapements. Any attempt to challenge these punitive laws was thwarted by a powerful lobby of watchmakers, who (unsurprisingly) benefited from the Swiss Watch Statute. In 1956, Oris hired Dr Rolf Portman, who fought the ‘Swiss Watch Cartel’ for over a decade. In 1965, the ordinance was scrapped, and Oris was able to create and compete unhindered by archaic laws. Portman’s involvement with Oris continued beyond this fight — in 1982, he and Ulrich W. Herzog staged a management buyout of the firm, ushering in Oris’ era of independence that continues today. Portman, now in his 90s, is still an Honorary Chairman of Oris.

Dr Rolf Portman and Ulrich W. Herzog — key figures in Oris’ fight for independence and its modern identity
But where does the Star come in? Well, after Portman overcame the Swiss Watch Statute, the Oris Star of 1966 was the first watch Oris released with a Swiss lever escapement, and this latest version is a faithful recreation of that 1966 original, with a 35mm steel case with a cushion-y silhoutte that was all the rage in the 60s, and a domed plexi-crystal that might not be scratch-proof but is incredibly charming. The silver dial has a bold and blocky handset, and matching applied indices, with a few pleasing period details like the slightly trapezoidal date display and the sector design. As for the calibre, just like the original, the Cal. 733 has a lever escapement (though that is not too remarkable), and offers 41 hours of power reserve. All told, it’s an incredibly charming little piece that speaks to a surprisingly significant legacy.

The Oris Star Edition revives a 1966 icon, complete with bold applied markers and a clean, period-correct silver dial
The Oris Artelier Complication

The Artelier Complication pairs a textured blue dial with a poetic moonphase and pointer date — understated, but full of detail
At its heart, Oris excels at making high-quality mechanical watches for people who want a good everyday timepiece. They don’t chase status, trends or higher price points like some watchmakers. The revived Artelier collection epitomises this approach. Really, it’s a watch from another time — a pre-digital era when a reliable and stylish watch was an everyday essential rather than a style accessory. The Artelier isn’t a diver, a tool watch or any of the myriad other trend pieces; it is, and we mean this in the best way possible, a nice watch. The hero of the new Artelier collection is the Artelier Complication, which adds some detail to the urban and dressy design. Before that, fundamentals. The stainless case measures 39.5mm across, and a moderate 11.8mm tall. The dial is subtly finished, with a smooth chapter ring making way to a softly grained centre dial, surrounded by modern applied indices and a slender but legible handset. The complications in question are a pointer date register at six, stacked underneath a quite charming moonphase at six, where the semi-realistic moon is nestled in a field of stars that extends from the moon disc onto the scalloped aperture cover. The movement is the Calibre 782, with all the functions adjusted via the crown or a single recessed pusher on the right case flank. The Artelier Complication is being launched in six versions: leather or bracelet versions of three dials — ivory, midnight blue or chestnut. The ivory and blue are classic choices, while the chestnut delivers a dose of that accomplished colour for which Oris is famous.
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