I could have taken the predictable Watches and Wonders route and filled this page with the usual names and headline pieces. They were there, as expected. But what stood out this year was the spread. Strong watches came from every level, not just the top end, and the interest wasn’t confined to one type either. There were serious complications, alongside lighter, more playful pieces that held their own among the bigger players. All this suggests a more interesting market than that of the past few years, one that isn’t moving in a single direction, but exploding in several at once.

Chopard L’Heure du Diamant

From my perspective, Chopard is still not receiving the attention it deserves. My brand of the year for the third time in a row (although tying this year with Parmigiani Fleurier), two of my Top 5 watches of the fair came from the house. Chopard has always created jewelry watches with the same seriousness it applies to its men’s watchmaking and the new L’Heure du Diamant is a shining example of this. Inspired by a 1960s design, the fluted white gold dial flows directly into the bracelet so the whole piece reads as one continuous expanse of worked metal, punctuated by the crown-set diamond bezel. Crucially, it is driven by the COSC-certified 09.01-C automatic movement, which measures 20.4mm.

At the other end of the spectrum, the new L.U.C 1860 gets almost everything right by doing very little, celebrating 30 years of the L.U.C manufacture by refining what was already there. The Areuse Blue ties it back to Fleurier and the origins of the manufacture, while the movement traces directly to the first L.U.C caliber. The 36.5mm case hits the current industry sweet spot. The hand-guilloché gold surface carries just the right amount of texture and the layout of hours, minutes and small seconds keeps everything legible. Removing the date, which sat on the original, means there is nothing to interrupt the symmetry.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 (©Revolution)

Also celebrating its 30th birthday, Parmigiani introduced an anniversary trilogy of Toric models consisting of the Petite Seconde, Quantieme Perpetual and Chronograph Rattrapante, each limited to 30 pieces with special, hand-hammered, white gold dials best seen in the platinum-cased Petite Seconde. The effect is made through dozens of individual strikes that soften the way light hits, giving the dial a sense of movement.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde (©Revolution)

Celebrating its 30th birthday, Parmigiani introduced an anniversary trilogy of Toric models

At the Oris booth, a revival piece was a standout not because of its name, but because of what it represents. The Star Edition is tied to a moment in 1965 when Oris moved from restriction to independence, introducing its first lever escapement watch after reversing a Swiss law that had stifled innovation for decades. The 35mm case, integrated lugs and stripped-back dial are balanced in a way that many larger, more ambitious pieces miss. Inside, the automatic caliber is simple but appropriate, acting as a reminder that significance in watchmaking is not always measured by complexity.

Oris Star Edition

The Star Edition is tied to a moment in 1965 when Oris introduced its first lever escapement watch

My wildcard watch is one that I love because it just makes me happy. Growing up in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the Reebok Pump with its internal inflation system and basketball-shaped pump on the tongue was not just a shoe, it was something you either had or didn’t. My sister had. I didn’t. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump feels like it could be a moment of fraternal correction. The Reebok reference is not superficial — the orange pusher on the case replaces the crown and winds the movement. It is playful, but purposeful. There’s lots of technical stuff that I could talk about but more importantly, this watch keeps a memory alive.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump Black

Its orange Pump-style pusher replaces the crown and winds the movement with each press