The future of the watch industry lies in technical talent, and brands are increasingly proactive at identifying and publicizing the work of promising watchmakers. For many years now, both A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe – specialist brands that cater to a similar audience – have sought to recognize the best young watchmakers through annual watchmaking contests. But today, the world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton, has come forth in a notably inclusive initiative led by Jean Arnault, director of the watch division and the 24-year-old son of Bernard Arnault, to recognize and support emerging watchmaking creatives across the spectrum of the business.
Organized by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the complications powerhouse helmed by respected duo Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize contest differs from those of recent years in that it is open to people of all ages, nationalities and areas of specialization; be it watchmaker, designer or entrepreneur. It welcomes not only watchmaking students and recent graduates, but also fledging startups and experienced watchmakers hoping to make the leap towards independence.
Held biennially, the contest will not only award the winner with a one-year mentorship program with La Fabrique du Temps and a grant of EUR 150,000, which could be used to help get their project off the ground, but will also offer guidance in areas such as commercial strategy, copyright and corporate legal aspects, financial management and communication, invaluable skills for an emerging professional.
To evaluate the watch submissions, Louis Vuitton has assembled a panel of industry experts made up of artists, artisans, collectors and specialized journalists, including our founder Wei Koh. The works will be reviewed based on five criteria: creativity and innovation, sense of design, the quality of craftsmanship and technical complexity.
Registration will open online on the dedicated Louis Vuitton Watch Prize website where candidates can submit their work from the beginning of 2023 through to the end of May 2023. Twenty semi-finalists will then be shortlisted from the pool of candidates and announced online in September 2023.
In the second leg of the contest, the expert committee will go on to select five finalists in December 2023. They will also elect a five-member jury among themselves to perform the final round of judging. All five finalists will be auditioned by the jury in Paris in January 2024 and the winner will be announced at a special reception hosted by Louis Vuitton.
The initiative arrives at a time when independent watchmaking has become, for many, the centre of the horological universe, but equally when the global financial outlook is dark. This exercise of influence by a powerful conglomerate appears not only to be for the greater good of the watch world but might also provide small and nascent independents critical economic support.
