Oris has been on an absolute tear with the movement development recently, most recently (and notably) with the cal. 400. This latest is a different beast in many ways, but the Calibre 473 shares the same spirit. It’s a manually wound pointer date movement, a worthy update to one of Oris’ most historically famous models. And while the 38mm pale-blue dialled watch might look like a museum piece, the 120 hours of power reserve, 10-year warranty and 10-year service interval suggest otherwise. It’s a good-looking calibre from the back, with a neatly finished bridges and a rear-mounted power reserve. I know I’ve spent most of my time talking about the one part of the watch you can’t see, and while it’s understandable, it’s unfair. The front shows off what Oris does so well, classically proportioned vintage-inspired timepieces with a modern edge. Here the modernity isn’t just in the shade of blue, but also the sapphire crystal and generous lume. The strap is worth mentioning too, its sustainably sourced deer from Cervo Volante, with a finely adjustable butterfly clasp.
The only way is up for Oris. The brand has spent a long time honing its offering and iterating on them. The Big Crown with its pointer date is one such pillar, and today it just got significantly better. It’s great to see the fan-favorite brand offer elevated versions of its popular offerings, and the new Calibre 473 is elevated in all the right ways.
Oris Big Crown Calibre 473
Movement: Calibre 472, hand-wound, 120 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, pointer date, power reserve on rear
Case: Stainless steel, 38mm, water-resistant to 5 bar
Strap: Olive brown strap crafted from sustainably sourced deer leather
Price: CHF 4200