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Czapek & Cie is launching two new models, as a part of Geneva Watch Days 2022, that revisits its first movement with a makeover that whilst staying true to the spirit of the brand offers some improvements that brings the calibre SXH1 into line with the rest of Czapek’s movements. To launch the new movement, two new dials have been created as part of the Ricochet line.

Let’s take a look at the dials first. Czapek’s unique Ricochet guilloche pattern is a familiar sight to fans of the brand. Made in collaboration with partner Donzé Cadrans, the flinqué enamel is present in two new hues – Sapphire Blue L and Emerald Green L. The blue is, according to Czapek a “dreamy, iridescent, marine hue” that is exclusive to Czapek & Cie, whilst the emerald is “close to British racing green that gives the dial an unusual intensity.” Each dial is finished with stunning guilloche that has become something of a trademark of the line, with two sub dials in the lower half of the dial: a small seconds and a power reserve indicator. The dials are set with Fluer-de-Lys hands. The main part of this story is, however, beneath the dial.

At the heart of these two watches is a reworking of calibre SXH1. Fans of Czapek & Cie are a noisy bunch it would seem and the brand has listened and is making the modifications in line with what the fans ask for. Personally, I find this inspiring and applaud the brand for taking their loyal customers’ view so seriously. Lovers of the original need not panic though, as CEO Xavier de Roquemaure explains, “The spirit of the watch has not been touched, but we have had a second look at the movement and identified what you might call evolutionary inflection points.”

The original Quai des Bergues’ SXH1 caliber was both sober and technical and was designed in the spirit of traditional Genevan craftsmen known as the cabinotiers. Later movements from the brand have been of more complex architecture as seen in the Antarctique line and so it was time for the humble SXH1 to get its makeover. The most obvious change is the extensive openwork including a three-quarter plate that exposes the geartrain. The bridge plate and balance bridge have also been hollowed out to give the movement a more dynamic look. The movement finishing has also been developed with deeper chamfering on the edges. Chapek has also, at the suggestion of a good friend of the brand, introduced “mi-glace” rubies for improved lubrication that give a more fluid look to the movement and catch the light.

Tech Specs

Quai des Bergues, Ref. Sapphire Blue L and Emerald Green L

Movement: Calibre SXH1 manual wind movement with seven day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: 42.5mm steel case with sapphire case back
Dial: Handmade “Flinqué” enamel dial with exclusive Ricochet® design and elongated Roman numerals in either blue or green
Strap: Alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Availability: CHF 18,000 from 29th September 2022