It’s a big year for Audemars Piguet. The prestigious’ holy trinity’ brand celebrates 150 years since its inception this year, and they’re going all out. Of course, the big news is the brand new perpetual calendar calibre 7138 — released in two Royal Oaks and one Code 11.59. But this trilogy of big-ticket releases isn’t the only complicated offerings Audemars Piguet has made for their first semester releases; there’s also an openworked perpetual calendar tribute to an outgoing favourite and a small-scale tourbillon that makes a big impact.

In many ways, you could consider this stunning swan song for the Calibre 5135 the companion piece to last year’s collab with John Mayer — the ‘Crystal Sky’. While that watch was the last production piece for the Calibre 5134, this is its open-worked equivalent, powered by the Calibre 5135, a movement that the brand has used for a decade and was most recently seen in the Travis Scott Cactus Jack LE. This celebratory piece offers a far more traditional design — one inspired by a remarkable pocket watch (ref. 25729) on display in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. But make no mistake, this is still a thoroughly contemporary piece, albeit one with plenty of horological easter eggs built into the design. The case is made from one of the most interesting materials in watchmaking — Bulk Metallic Glass, an amorphous alloy that has a glossy lustre and unwavering glow. And Audemars Piguet has paired it with titanium for an all-round high-tech appeal.

A design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Pocket Watch Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 25729

If the Royal Oak case is looking to the future, then the dial has its heart in the past. First and foremost, it’s a cut-back celebration of the Calibre 5135, with rich blue highlights, bathtub hands and even a distinctive white printed typeface — all details inspired by that singular pocket watch. There are also nods to the 150th anniversary, with a special signature inspired by historic documents and unique caseback engravings celebrating the sesquicentennial.

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked 41mm

Self-winding Calibre 5135

Flying tourbillon introduced in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet 38mm

Proof that complicated mechanisms don’t always come in big packages, as the new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in a 38mm case helpfully demonstrates. Not only is this an object of beauty and technical savoir-faire, but it’s also the first time Audemars Piguet has placed a tourbillon within a 38mm case. And don’t let the petite diameter fool you, this watch is also quite slender at only 10.7mm tall, thanks to the ultra-thin calibre 2968, first seen in the impressive RD#3 from 2022. In case you need a refresher, this state-of-the-art movement boasts an escapement with a titanium case that drives the peripherally, resulting in improved energy efficiency — something that’s always front of mind when designing a smaller caliber.

On top of that, there’s a host of modern touches in architecture and design that results in a movement that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is technically proficient. The housing for this caliber is just as impressive the design of the Code 11.59 case looks wonderful in the soft hue of sand gold — an 18K alloy of gold, copper and palladium that has been further elevated by the careful setting of 235 brilliant diamonds (around 1.2 carats) on the lugs, crown and geometric case middle. Often watches made with women in mind (as this tourbillon no doubt is) tend to favour aesthetics over technical prowess. In this case though, it’s clear that Audemars Piguet has compromised on nothing.

Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38mm

Selfwinding Calibre 2968

Tech Specs: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked 41mm

Reference: 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 5135; 40-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; perpetual calendar with week indication; day; date; astronomical moon; leap year indicator
Case: 41mm × 9.9mm; titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG); water-resistant to 20m
Dial: Sapphire dial, blue brass inner bezel, round-hour makers and blue bathub hour and minute hands
Strap: Titanium bracelet links with BMG studs
Availability: Limited to 150 pieces

Tech Specs: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38mm

Reference: 26665SG.ZZ.D209CR.01
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2968; 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; flying tourbillon
Case: 38mm × 9.6mm; 18K sand gold set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Sand gold-toned dial
Strap: Beige large square scale alligator strap with sand-gold folding clasp set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds