This year marks the 160th anniversary of the company founded by George Favre-Jacot in Le Locle in 1865, a brand that became known as Fabrique des Montres Zenith S.A.in 1911, taking its name from Favre-Jacot’s award-winning “Zenith” movement that was said to be the most precise caliber of its time. In celebration of this milestone, CEO Benoit de Clerck will be unveiling some surprise models throughout 2025 as well as honouring three of the brand’s most popular watches in a colorful way — with a brand-new ceramic in Zenith blue.

“Blue has always been a signature color of Zenith going right back to our founder,” says de Clerck. “George Favre-Jacot would gaze up at the sky in Le Locle and for him it always looked blue. That’s why the color is dominant in a lot of things at Zenith and why it has always played a significant role in the products over the years. Of course, you know, we have used different shades, but for the 160th anniversary we wanted to keep a single look across this special collection.”

de Clerck says that for now at least, the new blue ceramic will be reserved for special 160th anniversary models. “A ceramic watch case may sound simple to produce, but it’s technically very advanced,” he says, emphasising the difficulty of working with the material. “And to create a new color is even more complicated – many colorants become muted at high temperatures, and we really wanted something bright, which is not at all easy, so it will always be limited by production.”

A trio of ceramic Zenith Blue

The color — somewhere between Royal and indigo — is indeed unusual, the material meaning that it appears lighter than the shade usually associated with Zenith. The three Ceramic Zenith Blue watches announced so far will be rolled out at regular intervals starting from April and will include a Pilot Big Date Flyback, a Defy Skyline Chronograph and a Chronomaster Sport. Each piece will be limited to 160 pieces with a special “160th Anniversary” oscillating weight and, as the names indicate, each will be a chronograph, highlighting one of Zenith’s most widely known complications and calibers — the El Primero.

The monochromatic blue monochrome blue is complemented by a titanium crown and rectangular push-pieces. Image: Revolution ©

Image: Revolution ©

First out of the blocks will be the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th. With a 41mm case, it is the only watch in the trio not to be equipped with a ceramic bracelet, opting instead for a pair of interchangeable Cordura effect rubber straps in Zenith blue and white. Still today the only brand that can use the word “Pilot” on a watch dial, Zenith’s history in aviation timepieces goes back to 1904, when it trademarked the word and pilot’s watches have remained in the brand catalog over the decades, with the latest version being a contemporary, sleek interpretation. 

In the Pilot Big Date Flyback, two huge chrono counters sit at 3 and 9 o’clock, while a patented instantaneous big date is positioned at 6. The dial features the signature horizontal grooves of the modern Pilot watch and the applied arabic numerals and hands are treated with blue and white Super-LumiNova. Powered by the El Primero 3652 caliber with column wheel and lateral clutch, the additional flyback function lets consecutive events be timed without stopping, resetting, and restarting the chronograph. 

The deep hue of the faceted 42 mm case and bracelet is echoed on the dial, adorned with an engraved geometric motif inspired by the brand’s four-pointed star. Image: Revolution ©

Image: Revolution ©

The second piece, which will go to market in June, is a 42mm Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th with the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second movement. Every detail of the caliber 3600 can be admired through the skeletonised dial. The watch has a ceramic bracelet in Zenith blue as well as an interchangeable Zenith blue rubber strap.

The striking blue hue extends to the sunray-finished dial, which features the brand’s signature 3-6-9 tricolour overlapping counters. Image: Revolution ©

Image: Revolution ©

Finally, September will see the launch of what is likely to be the most popular model, the Chronomaster Sport 160th. Housed in a 41mm ceramic case, the watch features pump-style chronograph pushers and a matching blue ceramic bracelet (and, of course, it also comes with an interchangeable Zenith blue rubber strap).

Tech Specs: Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition

Reference: 49.4002.3652/51.I009
Movement: Self-winding 5 Hz El Primero 3652; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; instantaneous big date; flyback chronograph
Case: 41mm × 14.25mm; blue microblasted ceramic; 100m water resistantance
Dial: Blue with horizontal grooves
Strap: Blue cordura effect rubber strap; additional white cordura effect strap; both with steel triple folding clasp
Availability: Limited edition of 160 units; available September 2025
Price: CHF 15,400 / EU 16,500 / USD 15,500 

Tech Specs: Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition

Reference: 49.9502.3600/51.I001
Movement: Self-winding 5 Hz El Primero 3600; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; 1/10th of a second chronograph functions; date
Case: 42mm × 12.7mm; blue ceramic; 100m water resistance
Dial: Blue-toned sunray starry sky pattern
Strap: Blue ceramic bracelet with a double folding clasp; additional blue rubber strap with steel folding clasp
Availability: Limited edition of 160 units; available June 2025
Price: CHF 22,900 / EU 24,800 / USD 23,800 

Tech Specs: Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition

Reference: 49.3102.3600/51.M3100
Movement: Self-winding 5 Hz El Primero 3600; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; date; 1/10th of a second chronograph
Case: 41mm × 13.6mm; blue ceramic; 100m water resistance
Dial: Blue-tones sunray with three different-coloured counters
Strap: Blue ceramic bracelet with ceramic folding clasp; additional blue rubber strap with steel folding clasp
Availability: Limited edition of 160 units; available September 2025
Price: CHF 21,900 / EU 23,700 / USD 22,700 

Zenith G.F.J. in celebration of the 160th anniversary

Harkening back to the glory days of the great Observatory Chronometry competitions, the brand new Zenith G.F.J. resurrects the Calibre 135 manual movement, which was originally utilized between 1949-1962. Named in honor of the manufacture’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, the new G.F.J. is a testament to the dedication that Zenith has had to creating the most accurate and reliable timepieces possible throughout its history.

The movement was briefly resurrected in 2022, when Zenith partnered with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo took ten vintage 135 movements and restored and refinished them to magnificent modern standards. This first step inevitably led to today, when the Calibre 135 has been reborn anew with all the contemporary capabilities and technologies now at Zenith’s disposal.

Utilizing a Breguet overcoil and beating at 2.5 hz,  movement is regulated to an impressive +/-2 seconds per day. The power reserve has been increased from 40 (for the historical movement) to 72. But perhaps even more impressive than the function of the movement is its finishing, which is magnificently displayed through a sapphire caseback. Judicially placed sections of “blue bricks” guilloche engraving are intersected by beautiful anglage. Apart from the balance wheel and 5 jewels, it is a stark and stunningly monochrome movement.

The dial is a tapestry of fine materials and finishing techniques. Divided into 3 separate textural segments, the dial of the G.F.J is just wild. The outer track features a combination of beautifully detailed “blue bricks” guilloche pattern engravings, punctuated by 18 ct white gold indices and 40 white gold beads which are hand applied. The white gold indices are beautifully finished and faceted, creating perfect reflective highlights amidst the textured guilloche.

Moving in further, the core of the dial is comprised of a solid piece of rich lapis lazuli stone. Inevitably, each piece will be unique, with its own textures, color variations, and magnificent striations of gold toned pyrite. At 6 o’clock, a subsidiary seconds dial of light blue mother of pearl punctuates the luxurious, dark azure display. As though the movement and dial combination were not striking enough on their own, the whole piece is cased in 950 Platinum and paired on a fine dark blue alligator leather strap (though it should be noted that a full platinum bracelet is available, should one be so inclined.)

Tech Specs: Zenith G.F.J

Reference: Ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200
Movement: Manual-winding Calibre 135; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 39.15mm × 10.5mm; platinum; 50m water resistance
Dial: Lapis lazuli; mother-of-pearl (small second counter); Blue bricks guilloché on the outer ring
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle; additional black calfskin leather and blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather. Optional for purchase: platinum bracelet with double folding clasp
Availability: Limited edition of 160 units
Price: CHF 48,900 CHF / EU 52,900 Euros / USD 49,900