Cartier Privé

Let’s start with Cartier Privé, which, this year, is revisiting the aesthetically distinctive (yet still quintessentially Cartier) Tank Chinoise. Originally created in 1922, this model took for its inspiration a European understanding of Chinese decorative arts. In the case of the Chinoise, it was the architecture and geometry of Chinese temples and porticos that served as the inspiration for the strong lines of the watch. One hundred years after the model’s debut, we’re treated to two new interpretations of this elegant watch.

Coussin de Cartier

You would think, with more than a century of watch designs under its proverbial belt, that the maison would have fully explored all possibilities when it comes to shaped watches. Thankfully, that isn’t the case, as this completely new collection demonstrates.

Coussin de Cartier takes, as its inspiration, that most fluid of shapes: the cushion. Cartier describes this pillow of preciousness as a watch made for going out in the evening; a square hemmed with diamonds arranged in a spiral. This dynamic design gives the Coussin a real sense of dynamism, like some sort of dazzling whirlpool. Take, for example, the two-tone version with diamonds and black spinels, or Paraiba tourmalines and tsavorites, where the colored stones have been set inverted to give them a stud-like appearance. Even in the more conventionally set models, Cartier has used a new triangular setting that allows the stones to be directly integrated into the case, requiring less metal and allowing them to shine even more.

Tank de Cartier

The return of the Must de Cartier was one of last year’s biggest horological success stories — particularly the colorful and stripped-back monochromatic models. For 2022 Cartier is following up on the initial acclaim the Tank Must earned with red and gray takes on the Tank Louis Cartier.

Masse Mystérieuse

The final collection we’re going to explore from the swathe of new releases is a modern take on a classic Cartier signature — the mysterious time display. This new fine watchmaking family presents a new mystery, where the entire caliber is transferred into a semi-circle that not only looks after the business of keeping time, but also serves as the oscillating weight. This remarkable achievement, the caliber 9801 MC, is the result of eight years of research — an incredible achievement that sees the ultra-thin rotor open-worked to display the workings — all built around a complex central differential system borrowed from the automotive space. Displayed in a 43.5mm platinum case, the Masse Mystérieuse blurs the lines between timekeeping, engineering and kinetic art.

Tech Specs

Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

Coussin de Cartier

Tank Louis Cartier

Tank Must

Masse Mystérieuse