When it was first created in 1912, the Tortue was described as a “platinum bottom gold watch in a so-called turtle shape”. Indeed, to this day, the softly rounded lines of the barrel-shaped case resembles that of a turtle’s shell viewed from the top. Accordingly, it was christened “Tortue”, which means “turtle” in French, and it became one of the first major shaped watches from Cartier, after the Santos (1904) and the Tonneau (1906).

At a time when watches were mostly round, Louis Cartier had wanted something different. Where the Santos was all masculine with angular lines, and the Tonneau was elongated and elegant, the Tortue proved far more versatile.

Tortue CPCP wristwatch, Cartier, circa 2000. Cartier Collection (©Revolution)

“Our clientele was ready for this new shape,” explains Pascale Lepeu, Cartier Collection Director. “And it became extremely popular among both men and women.”

From the start, the Tortue was variously embellished — adorned with enamel, diamonds and other precious stones, on its bezel and lugs, proving itself a versatile canvas for the creativity of the maison’s artisans. Even amongst the earliest models, the Tortue watches bear subtly varying proportions and sizes, but always with that distinctive shape that Lepeu describes as “when a circle meets a rectangle”. Between the 1910s and 1920s, the Tortue swiftly became one of the maison’s most popular wristwatches.

Its beautifully curved case also afforded precious space for Cartier’s watchmakers to fit in complications. “The shape of the Tortue case allows for a bigger movement than the Tank or the Santos,” Lepeu explains. “This is why it is one of the very first Cartier wristwatches with a complication.”

Tortue XL Tourbillon CPCP, Cartier, circa 2006. Cartier Collection (©Revolution)

Tortue XL Tourbillon CPCP, Cartier, circa 2006. Cartier Collection (©Revolution)

The Iconic Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir

Released in 1928, the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir became the first Tortue models equipped with a complication. It measured a mere 25mm wide and 35mm lug to lug, with a dial framed by a round chemin de fer minute track encircling Cartier’s signature Roman numerals, apple-shaped hands and two chronograph subdials. That same year, Cartier released the Tortue Minute Repeater in yellow gold, with a discreet slider on the left of the Tortue case that triggers the repeater.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir from the 1920s

In the years since, the maison has continued experimenting with the possibilities afforded by the Tortue case. Then in 1998, Cartier re-released the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, this time as part of the exclusive Collection Privée Cartier Paris, or CPCP as it is affectionately known. Powered by the manual-winding Caliber 045 MC developed by THA and presented in white or yellow, it instantly became one of the most iconic and coveted references amongst the Cartier collector community.

The Cartier ‘CPCP’ Tortue Monopoussoir Ref. 2714 powered by the manual-winding Caliber 045 MC (Image: Sotheby’s)

Throughout the 2000s and after CPCP was discontinued in 2008, the maison released various Tortue models with different complications, such as perpetual calendars, and in assorted sizes, including XL and a muscular XXL alongside more petite women’s sizes.

Cartier XL Tortue Monopusher CPCP, Ref. 2762 (Image: Christie’s)

Then in 2024, Cartier brought back the Cartier Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir as a 200-piece limited edition that is part of the Cartier Privé collection, and fervor for the Tortue hit an all-time high. It was presented alongside time-only models, similarly limited. They were available in yellow gold and platinum, and they retained the curvy proportions and design hallmarks of their predecessors while remaining distinctly modern in their executions. The former, for instance, is powered by the manual-winding Caliber 1928 MC that is beautifully finished and carefully shaped to match the curved case, gorgeously showcased via the sapphire caseback.

Cartier Privé Tortue Monopossoir Chronograph

The Caliber 1928 MC

A Bold New Tortue for 2026

For 2026, Cartier once again shines the spotlight on the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, presented as part of Cartier Privé’s 10th Opus trilogy alongside the Tank Normale and the Crash Skeleton, all cast in platinum with striking burgundy accents and gorgeous blued hands.

This latest iteration of the iconic monopusher chronograph draws from the 1998 Cartier Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) design. It taps on the popular variant with an extra-large XII numeral at 12 o’clock, paired with discreet beaded hour markers around a specific minute track design. Triangular motifs, found in earlier models, are placed at four corners of the case, accentuating its distinctive shape. In place of the movement of its predecessor, Cartier has fitted it with the Caliber 1928 MC movement that is the manufacture’s thinnest chronograph at 4.3mm thick, developed to fit the shape of the Tortue case.

Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, presented as part of Cartier Privé’s 10th Opus trilogy

Cartier has also turned its attention back to the versatility of the Tortue case, showcasing its potential with eight other stunning new iterations, in varying sizes from mini (26.1mm x 20.9mm) to the significant real estate of the Metiers d’Art models (43.7mm by 34.8mm).

At first glance, the new Tortue case looks distinctly more curvaceous across all sizes, with rounder, more generous proportions that extend smoothly into the lugs. While Cartier has retained the iconic Roman numerals on the dial, it has done away with the classic rail track of earlier models. Instead, this is replaced with a minimalist frame of dots, referencing a historic watch from 1922 that featured a dotted line on the bezel. The Tortue dial, too, received a small makeover with an embossed sunray motif in relief that reaches out to its edges, in place of the traditional guilloché pattern. Last but not least, Cartier’s secret signature is now integrated in the numeral X, instead of the VII of earlier Tortue references.

Cartier Tortue in yellow gold

These hallmarks of the new Tortue are vividly displayed in the classic two-hand yellow gold SM model with champagne-colored dial. For added sparkle, there are the rhodium-finished white gold and rose gold models in two sizes (Mini and SM models), all paired with brilliant-cut pavé diamonds on the bezel and powered by quartz.

Cartier Tortue in Rhodium-finish white gold and Rose gold

The platinum iteration in Large size, on the other hand, is presented with more traditional Tortue codes, such as the stamped dial with guilloche effect, rail track, Roman numerals and the secret signature at VII. It is powered by the manual-winding ultra-thin Caliber 430 MC with 38 hours power reserve.

But the most spectacular showcase of the Tortue this season lies in Cartier’s métiers d’art interpretation, which leans on another legendary Cartier icon — the Panthère.

Cartier Panthère Métiers d’Art Tortue

Here, the Tortue case extending from the dial to the case-middle, is the tabula rasa on which the maison’s artisans work their intricate magic. Using champlevé enamel, where cavities are cut into the base then filled with enamel for a three-dimensional effect, they create an optical depth of field on the dial. The iconic panther gazes out from behind a veil of raindrops. Each drop is gently domed, standing in sharp relief against the gold- or silver-flecked panther.

Cartier Panthère Métiers d’Art Tortue

Two different interpretations are presented: in white gold with emerald eyes, and yellow gold with tsavorite eyes. Over 15 different colors were used and more than 36 separate firings required for each piece. The entire enameling process requires 80 hours for just the dial alone, and another 50 hours for the case, to create the remarkable tableau that elevates the Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art Watch beyond watch and jewelry.

More than 100 years after it was first launched, the Tortue continues to hold its audience spellbound. Its versatility and appeal endure, cementing its place amongst Cartier’s shaped-watch canon.

Tech specs: Cartier Privé Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir

Movement Manual-winding Caliber 1928 MC; 44-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter
Case 34.8mm × 43.7mm; platinum; water resistant to 30m
Dial Silvered dial
Strap Burgundy alligator leather
Price

Tech specs: Cartier Tortue Watch

Movement High autonomy quartz
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 26.1mm x 20.9mm, or 33.4mm × 26.7mm; white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold (SM only); water resistant to 30m
Dial White dial on paved versions; champagne-colored dial on gold version
Strap Alligator leather in navy blue, red or black
Price

Tech specs: Cartier Tortue Watch

Movement Manual-winding Caliber 430 MC
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 41mm x 33mm; platinum set with 46 baguette-cut diamonds the bezel; water resistant to 30m
Dial Stamped dial with guilloché effect
Strap Gray alligator leather with second blue strap
Price

Tech specs: Cartier Panthère Métiers d’Art Tortue Watch

Movement Manual-winding Caliber 430 MC
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 43.7mm x 34.8mm; champlevé enamel on white gold with emerald eyes, onyx nose and inverted-set emerald crown, or champlevé enamel on yellow gold with tsavorite eyes, onyx nose and inverted-set tsavorite crown; water resistant to 30m
Dial Champlevé enamel
Strap Blueish gray or deep green alligator leather
Price