Tudor pays homage to its dive watch history with the new Pelagos FXD.
The story begins in the mid-50s when Tudor’s diving watches started undergoing rigorous tests by the US Navy. By 1958, they were officially adopted for use by Navy divers.
This modern Mil-Sub (Military Submariner) seamlessly combines elements from historic Tudor diving watches with modern engineering. With a 42mm titanium case, the new Pelagos FXD features a 60-notch rotating bezel with luminescent material-filled ceramic inserts, adhering to ISO standards for diver’s watches. Its aesthetics pay homage to Tudor’s late 60s Oyster Prince Submariner; the iconic “Snowflake” hands and square hour markers are a nod to this heritage.
The “FXD” in its name stands for “FiXeD strap bars”, and it’s a feature that makes total sense for a NATO-strapping timepiece as such. Structurally, spring bars would be the weakest links for tool watches — break it, and your strap comes off.
Historically, US Navy divers preferred fabric straps for their Tudor watches. This flagship configuration includes a one-piece green fabric strap with a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system. A black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap provides a contemporary alternative.
From SEAL teams to UDTs, Tudor watches accompanied Navy personnel on missions of all kinds. These watches even played a role in underwater submarine maintenance and pioneering underwater technologies worldwide.
Interestingly, Tudor watches issued by the US Navy rarely bore specific markings, making it a challenge for today’s watch enthusiasts to trace their military origins. Official records, however, confirm that large quantities of Tudor watches were delivered to the Navy over several decades.
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 drives the hours, minutes, and seconds functions. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed, while bridges and main plates feature sand-blasted and polished surfaces.
It comes with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and like all of its modern in-house movements, it’s COSC-certified.
Tech Specs: Tudor Pelagos FXD
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; Central seconds; uni-directional rotating bezel with 60-minute diving scale
Case: 42mm; Titanium; Water-resistant to 200m (660 ft)
Dial: Matt black; Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system (forest green with red central thread); Additional black rubber strap with woven motif and titanium pin buckle
|Movement||Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date|
|Case||42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m|
|Dial||Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals|
|Strap||Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp|