By now, the Ulysse Nardin Freak should probably feel less astounding than it still does. After all, it has been a whole 25 years since the original Freak landed in 2001 with no dial, hands or crown, choosing instead to let the movement itself be the time display.

This year has been a big one for Ulysse Nardin. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand marked the Freak’s 25^th anniversary with the Super Freak, a wildly ambitious piece that pushed the idea of the movement-display to its most extreme and technically complex – crowned as the most complicated time-only watch with its 511 components crammed into its caliber.

Even after all this time, the Freak still remains one of those rare watchmaking signatures that genuinely feels unlike anything else. And the 25^th year anniversary celebrations continue with the new generation of the Freak [X].

With the new Freak [X], Ulysse Nardin takes this same disruptive spirit and packs it into a watch that is now smaller, cleaner and far easier to imagine as a daily watch. Since its debut, the Freak has never exactly been shy on the wrist. It was born as a statement piece, and for most of its life, has worn like one too.

Even the previous generation of the Freak [X], introduced in 2019 as the more approachable member of the line, still measured at 43mm. It brought a crown to the Freak, simplified the user experience and made it feel more accessible without losing the technical and visual complexities of the signature flying carousel. But it was still a Freak in terms of presence.

This new generation changes that. The case has been reduced from 43mm to 41mm, while the lug-to-lug has gone down as well from 49.6mm to 47.3mm. Thickness also went down slightly, from 10.7mm to 10.3mm, or 13.6mm when including the new glassbox sapphire crystal. On paper, these numbers might come off as small changes but the difference should be much more apparent on the wrist.

The new Freak [X] is also built around an entirely new in-house caliber, the UN-232, developed over 2 years by the brand. It’s still the same flying carousel idea that rotates once every 60 minutes, and hours that are displayed via a pointer on a rotating disc. The way this watch tells the time is still the main event.

What has changed is more on the practical side, and in the physical space that the movement takes up. The UN-232 is more compact than the previous generation, and for the first time in a Freak [X], the escapement now features DIAMonSIL, Ulysse Nardin’s diamond-coated silicon technology designed to improve hardness, efficiency and durability on the key stress-point of the watch. This movement also includes an oversized silicon balance wheel and silicon hairspring, produced at SIGATEC, the brand’s silicon laboratory.

Another first for the Freak line is the use of a rose gold micro-rotor, fully integrated into the movement. It’s adds a nice bit of warmth to the view on the open caseback. The caliber itself is made up of 216 components, runs at 3Hz and delivers a respectable 72-hour power reserve.

The case has also been redesigned here on the new Freak [X]. The previous models used to have modular titanium constructions, but this new one moves to a monobloc case in either 80% recycled steel or full rose gold. This move to a monobloc case improves structural rigidity and acoustic stability – slightly reducing noise made from all the mechanical magic happening in there. It also comes with a screw-down crown and a very welcome 100 metres of water resistance.

The finishing here should be highlighted as well. The hour and minute indicators, along with the oscillator bridge, are all hand-bevelled, while applied hour markers with white Super-LumiNova add a bit more depth and legibility to the display. The open caseback showcases satin-brushed, grained and polished surfaces across the UN-232 movement, while the rose gold micro-rotor is finished with a colimaçon decoration.

Then there is the new bracelet and strap system, which is an amazing change for those looking at this as the daily-wear watch. The new Freak [X] now has quick release interchangeable straps with nine different configurations across an integrated metal bracelet, leather straps and rubber options. The integrated steel bracelet feels right at home, and is made from the same 80% recycled steel with the same finishing as the case. It also has a 2mm micro-adjustment support on both sides, which I know many will appreciate.

Three versions are available at launch: the Freak [X] Grey featuring grey sandblasted hour disc and the recycled steel case; the Freak [X] Blue with blue gradient satin sunburst hour disc; and the Freak [X] Gold, set in precious metal case and rose-gold coloured bridge and indexes, and a black sandblasted hour disc.

Personally, I’m infatuated with the grey version paired with the integrated metal bracelet. It looks so amazingly clean for the theatrics it packs, and definitely has that kind of everyday versatility.

All in all, the new Freak [X] is a brilliant 25-year evolution from the original Freak. It makes this unique concept easier to live with. And for a watch that has spent many years proving how far Ulysse Nardin can push things, that feels like a very welcome development.

Tech Specs: Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]

Movement Automatic manufacture Calibre UN-232; 72-hour power reserve; 21,600vph or 3Hz

Functions Hours and minutes

Case 41mm diameter × 10.35mm height, or 13.6mm including crystal; 47.3mm lug-to-lug; monobloc case in 80% recycled steel or rose gold; glassbox sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 100m

Dial Grey sandblasted hour disc with rhodium-plated bridge and indexes; blue gradient satin sunburst hour disc with rhodium-plated bridge and indexes; or black sandblasted hour disc with rose gold-coloured bridge and indexes; applied hour markers with white Super-LumiNova

Strap Light brown calfskin leather strap with steel deployant buckle; integrated steel bracelet in 80% recycled steel with micro-adjustment; or black alligator leather strap with rose gold stitching and rose gold deployant buckle; all compatible with the new quick-release interchangeable strap system

Price CHF 33,500 for the Freak [X] Grey; CHF 34,500 for the Freak [X] Blue on integrated steel bracelet; CHF 52,000 for the Freak [X] Gold, all prices inclusive of 8.1% VAT