SIHH 2019: Laurent FerrierBy Melissa Lim
Laurent Ferrier has firmly held the horological expressions and traditions from the 19th century dear to its heart, but we careen straight into 2019 for its first foray outside of round cases with the Bridge One, bar a unique collaboration piece for Only Watch in 2017. Here we see a stainless steel case that sits 30mm by 40mm on the wrist, with flared lugs that add a historical touch to the silhouette and highlight the curved flanks of the case. Not only does this result in a more curious shape, but increases comfort.
Coming full circle back to round cases (oh, then puns!), we now turn to the rather sporty Galet Traveller in opaline black or white dials. An automatic LF230.02 calibre is housed in the 41mm 18K white gold case and includes an off-centre micro-rotor to give life to a dual-time complication; the latter featuring an unusual approach. At 3 o’clock, there is a window to show the date at home and a reference time at 9 o’clock. The simple addition of hour and minute hands and pared-down small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock spells for an extremely clean dial, despite its functions, owing only to the technical prowess and sophistication of Laurent Ferrier. The choice to go with opaline over the expected enamel adds dimension and a sense of animation to the piece.
Keeping with the black and white theme, we wrap this up with a look at the Galet Micro-Rotor Opaline in, you guessed it; black and white dials. With three slightly different case shapes on offer, ranging from 40mm to 41mm, the negative space on the dial is able to shift and shape. Here, the FBN 229.01 automatic micro-rotor movement offers an hour and minute display with small seconds, along with a 72-hour power reserve. Amidst the flurry and chaos that is SIHH, it’s almost refreshing to see a time-only piece, further bolstering Laurent Ferrier’s keen eye and palpable sense of confidence. Sometimes less is more.