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Roger Dubuis at Watches and Wonders 2026: Roger Dubuis Returns to the Biretrograde

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Roger Dubuis at Watches and Wonders 2026: Roger Dubuis Returns to the Biretrograde

At Watches & Wonders 2026, Roger Dubuis revisits one of the most defining signatures in its history, using the biretrograde display as the foundation for two calendar-driven novelties that bring together celestial aesthetics, mechanical depth and the maison’s unmistakable Genevan flair.

 

For Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026, Roger Dubuis turns back to one of the signatures most deeply entwined with its identity: the biretrograde display. Long before the maison’s more extrovert expressions came to define its modern image, this was one of the ideas that established Roger Dubuis’ own watchmaking language — technically intelligent, visually dynamic and infused with a sense of play that never came at the expense of seriousness.

 

This year, that legacy is reasserted through two new calendar watches that approach the complication from different directions. One is a sport-chic steel day-date in Cosmic Blue, the other a more elevated perpetual calendar in pink gold with astronomical moonphase.

 

Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Full view of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in stainless steel with blue dial and integrated bracelet against a blue background

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar pairs its Cosmic Blue dial with a 40mm steel case and integrated bracelet for a sport-chic expression of the complication

 

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is the more direct and immediate of the novelties, though no less central to the story Roger Dubuis wants to tell this year. Housed in a 40mm steel case, it takes the maison’s patented biretrograde display and places it in a format that feels sporty, contemporary and assured. The new Cosmic Blue dial, with its layered construction, gives the watch more depth than a straightforward calendar model might initially suggest. Roger Dubuis has long understood that mechanical identity is only half the equation; the other half lies in how that mechanics is staged. The seven-level dial, shifting finishes and open-worked elements all contribute to a watch that feels alive on the wrist. Behind it is the automatic RD840 calibre, visible through the sapphire caseback and finished to meet the demands of the Poinçon de Genève.

 

Close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar dial showing blue multi-layer construction with retrograde day and date indicators and visible mechanical components

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Cosmic Blue, highlighting the signature twin retrograde day and date displays across a multi-layered dial

 

Caseback view of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar showing the automatic RD840 movement with skeletonised rotor and Geneva Seal finishing

The RD840 calibre is visible through the sapphire caseback, finished to Poinçon de Genève standards with a skeletonised rotor

 

Tech Specs: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Movement Automatic in-house RD840 calibre; day and date calendar with biretrograde display; 4 Hz or 28,800 vph; 60-hour power reserve
Functions Hours and minutes in the centre; day and date with biretrograde display; small seconds at 6 o’clock
Case 40mm by 11.25mm; stainless steel with open caseback; water resistant to 10 bar/100m
Dial Multi-layered Cosmic Blue dial with double-surface flange, sun-brushed ecliptic counters, circular-brushed centre plate, counters at 6 and 12 o’clock, circular-brushed dial ring, sun-brushed main plate and open-worked calibre with retrograde bridges decorated in Côtes de Genève
Bracelet Stainless steel bracelet with integrated QRS Quick Release System and triple folding clasp; additional strap included with stainless steel triple folding buckle
Price Upon request

 

Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Macro detail of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar dial showing moonphase display, retrograde day and date arcs, and visible mechanical components

A closer look at the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar reveals the moonphase display set beneath the twin retrograde scales, framed by layered blue textures and exposed mechanics

 

The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is the more stately release of the pair: a 40mm pink gold watch that combines the maison’s hallmark day-and-date biretrograde display with one of high watchmaking’s most exacting complications. The new RD850 calibre is central to that proposition. Developed in-house, it advances Roger Dubuis’ perpetual calendar architecture with the addition of a month corrector for easier adjustment, while integrating an astronomical moonphase at six o’clock that will remain accurate for around 122 years before requiring correction. The Astral Blue colourway, mother-of-pearl indications, aventurine moonphase display and domed pink gold moon create a dial that feels expansive rather than dense, as though the complication has been opened up and given room to breathe. Add the Poinçon de Genève and the movement’s inner angle finishing, and what emerges is a watch that feels true to Roger Dubuis in the most meaningful sense: expressive, technically serious and entirely unwilling to separate performance from spectacle.

 

Full view of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in rose gold with blue dial, retrograde indicators, and leather strap against a black background

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in rose gold pairs its openworked dial with bold retrograde displays and a richly textured blue aesthetic

 

Tech Specs: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Movement Automatic in-house RD850 calibre; biretrograde perpetual calendar with astronomical moonphase; 60-hour power reserve; 435 components
Functions Hours and minutes in the centre; day and date with biretrograde display; perpetual calendar; month indication; leap year indication; astronomical moonphase at 6 o’clock
Case 40mm; 18K pink gold
Dial Open-worked nine-layer dial in Astral Blue with mother-of-pearl ecliptic counters and month disc, leap year disc at 1 o’clock, moonphase counter in Astral Blue mother-of-pearl, aventurine moonphase disc and domed 18K pink gold moon
Strap Astral Blue calfskin leather strap
Price Upon request