Twenty years of MB&F is an odd milestone for many of us. The bulk of the industry decision-makers are now middle-aged and above. Those of us hovering around the 4-0 mark were practically kids when Max and Co. launched their first daring concept watch, the Horological Machine No. 1 (HM1) in 2007, two years after the company was signed into existence.

Since the seismic debut of the Horological Machine No.1, MB and his Friends have collaborated on more than 20 calibers. The company has ballooned from a skeleton crew into a 60-strong unit, working tirelessly to bring color to the often gray and conservative world of Haute Horlogerie.

When he started out, not even Max Büsser himself could’ve imagined the success of the project, no matter how much he believed in it personally. “It is like a dream come true, only I never dreamt it,” said Büsser. “I could never have even imagined we would be where we are today back then; it is surreal.”

Surreal as it may be (and surreal as many of his and his teams’ creations have been), MB&F is firmly established as the gold standard in experimental watchmaking. The Legacy Machine Longhorn Perpetual Calendar and the accompanying Legacy Machine Flyback Chronograph arrive at the perfect time, powered by arguably two of the most impressive movements within the brand’s extensive stable.

Upon its release, the Perpetual Calendar movement, developed by Northern Irish watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell, was a sensation. Soon after, the LM Sequential EVO (the Flyback Chronograph version) stormed to a deserved victory at the GPHG awards, winning the storied Aguille d’Or category, instantly enshrining itself as an all-time great in the process.

Renowned for their simple setting systems, collectors marveled at how such complex complications could be made so user-friendly. In addition to the revolutionary setting mechanism, the team (which included legendary watch designer Eric Giroud) succeeded in devising a layout that was extremely legible without sacrificing any of the “wow” factor for which the brand is well known. 

The first two limited editions for MB&F’s 20th Anniversary

Both the LM Perpetual Longhorn and the LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn are limited to just 20 pieces each. It is a fitting limitation given the anniversary, but one that will no doubt send the legions of MB&F die-hards scrabbling for their wallets to secure what will surely be highly sought-after pieces in years to come.

However, let it never be said that MB&F doesn’t think of its customers (or members of “The Tribe”, if you prefer) when conceiving product release strategies. Following in the footsteps of the LM Longhorn Perpetual Calendar and LM Sequential Flyback Chronograph will be several more timepieces released to commemorate this special occasion, which hopefully means many more existing and would-be customers’ desires will be satiated.

What was particularly successful about the original Perpetual calendar and the flyback that followed is how natural they appeared to the eye. The swooping balance bridge of the Legacy Machine was a sight to which we were already well accustomed. Pairing it with crisp, high-contrast enamel sub-dials displaying the complications’ essential information felt immediately comfortable. So much so, that you could almost have convinced yourself that you’ve seen them before.

And in the case of this release, of course, we have. The major aesthetic change from the original production series run of the Perpetual Calendars and Flyback Chronographs is the shift from white to black sub-registers. Although even that has been seen before, albeit only once …

Because of the instant familiarity of these pieces, the change in the lug length and profile almost goes unnoticed. When your eye is drawn to the lugs (or “horns”, as in the inspiration for the watches’ names), you find yourself questioning if they are in fact new or whether you’d just forgotten that’s what they’d looked like all along.

Truth be told, they are both entirely new and also rather old already. Although these lugs never made it onto the production model, the design was considered for the original Legacy Machine way back in 2009 (while the model which would eventually be released in 2011 was under development).

Although these lugs never made it onto the production model, the design was considered for the original Legacy Machine way back in 2009.

Questions of where to locate the spring bar to ensure a good fit on wrists of all sizes stopped the earlier development of the Longhorn lugs in its tracks, but Max and his cohort never forgot about them and their elegant elongated form.

Then, in 2021, the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine provided the first opportunity for the Longhorn lugs to see the light of day. One stainless steel prototype case with Longhorn lugs remained, following the rapid sell-out of every production series Legacy Machine.

The original concern regarding the placement of the lug holes was fixed with the simplest of solutions (by drilling two sets of holes so the customer could decide on their preference), and the usual white sub-dials were replaced by glossy black alternatives before this pièce unique was sent off to Phillips Auction House to be sold (with a sizeable chunk of the profits being donated to Save the Rhino International).

To commemorate that pièce unique and to harness the excitement generated by the elegant lugs themselves, MB&F decided to bring the now-famous stainless steel Longhorn case back for one more go-around before closing the book on the Legacy Machine series for good (or, at least, that is what we assume for now until MB&F figures out a good enough excuse to resurrect the line once more).

Both models are presented in 69-component stainless steel cases that measure 44mm × 17.5mm and are water-resistant to 30 meters. The 581-component manually would movement boasts an impressive power reserve of 72 hours, derived from twin barrels. The 14mm wide balance wheel remains the cynosure of the movement, somehow still managing to steal the show despite the wonders that surround it. A languid 18,000 vph operating speed not only facilitates the generous run time of a full wind, but also allows the wearer to fully enjoy the hypnotic swing of the balance as it keeps the hours, minutes, days, dates, months, and leap years in check.

A high domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal on the front and a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal display back reveal the movement in all its glory, while a calf leather strap with folding stainless steel buckle keeps the watch on the wrist where such a work of art belongs.

Tech Specs: MB&F LM Perpetual Longhorn

Movement: Manual-winding with fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; day; date; month; retrograde leap year; power reserve indicator
Case: 44mm × 17.5mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Openworked with black subdials
Strap: Calf leather strap with stainless steel folding buckle
Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
Price: CHF 168,000 (excl. VAT)

Tech Specs: MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn

Movement: Manual-winding with fully integrated dual chronograph flyback system developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; flyback chronograph; power reserve indicator
Case: 44mm × 18.2mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Openworked with black subdials
Strap: Calf leather strap with stainless steel folding buckle
Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
Price: CHF 168,000 (excl. VAT)