Reporting in Swiss news outlet Le Temps and the Business of Fashion tells us that around 100 jobs at the brands Le Locle HQ are at risk — around 50% of the workforce, along with a further 100 international roles. Le Temps says that Zenith has begun formal negotiations with staff, and no result can be reached before mid-November. In addition, the brand will likely discontinue many of its collections soon and close retail operations until 2029.

Speaking to BoF, Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck said that “Every watch brand in our segment is facing a severely depressed market right now.” De Clerck also noted that a strong Franc, US tariffs, and shrinking markets in Asia and the Middle East all contributed to a challenging outlook for the watchmaker. Morgan Stanley puts the brand’s sales at 98 million CHF in 2025, a significant drop from its 2023 turnover of 138 million.

But while the short-term outlook for Zenith is challenging, de Clerk is hopeful about the future of the brand — citing the bright spot that is the higher-end segment, an area in which it has had success in recent years thanks to the G.F.J. Calibre 135, a model that evokes the brand’s history in chronometric excellence rather than the El Primero for which it is best known. The G.F.J. models are low production and higher price, and, if the limited edition made with Naoya Hida is any indication, they have clear appeal with collectors.

Regardless of the current difficulties, Zenith’s legacy is unimpeachable. From its founding in 1865, to strong performance in chronometry competitions and the birth of the El Primero in 1969, and more recently its innovation in high-frequency chronographs, the brand has been a staple of watchmaking, and we look forward to the next chapter of this storied brand.