LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer Introduces the New Aquaracer Professional 200 Collection

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer Introduces the New Aquaracer Professional 200 Collection

Last year TAG Heuer returned to the water in a big way with a revamped and refined Aquaracer 300, their dedicated dive watch with a distinctively shaped bezel. This year the brand is releasing its second underwater act with a full suite of Aquaracer Professional 200 watches. And when we say full suite, we mean it. Right out of the gate, we’re treated to an array of sizes and dials, in quartz and automatic, making this a fully-fledged collection with some neat details.

Dive watches might not be the first model that comes to mind when you think about TAG Heuer’s chronograph heavy offering. Still, the brand’s first aquatic watch was 1978’s Reference 844; a model followed up by a series of serious tool watches that set the tone for the Aquaracer collection (which was formally introduced in 2004). At its heart, the Aquaracer is defined by six design codes — a unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, 200 metres or more of water-resistance, luminous markings, sapphire crystal and a double safety clasp. These features are geared to ensure that the Aquaracer is a robust piece capable of living up to the brand’s ‘Don’t crack under pressure’ strapline, but it doesn’t come close to defining the aesthetics of the Aquaracer.

The Reference 844 dive watch from 1978. (Image : Onthedash)
The Reference 844 dive watch from 1978. (Image : Onthedash)

In a world of round divers, the Aquaracer Professional 200 stands out. The 12-sided bezel is a distinctive feature of the line, and this singular geometry flows into the shape and refined finishes of the case. The size of the case is a notable point of difference between this collection, and its sibling, the Aquaracer Professional 300, which measures in at 43mm. The 200 comes in two sizes, 40mm and 30mm. The 40mm model especially is a truly versatile size, that should please a lot of people. It isn’t just the size that makes the Aquaracer 200 an all-rounder compared to its more specialised sibling. The case is slim, the bezel insert is steel and the centre links on bracelets are polished. The dials have a distinct sartorial flair we’ll get to in a moment. All these touches add up to a watch designed to fit in under the cuff in an office, on the slopes, or in the waves.

Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2110.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2110.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2111.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2111.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Quartz, ref. WBP1110.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Quartz, ref. WBP1110.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Quartz, ref. WBP1111.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Quartz, ref. WBP1111.BA0627

One of the stand out features on the new Aquaracer 200 line are the dials, particularly on the 40mm models. Hands and hour markers have been refined to create a more pleasing, elegant dial, but it’s the colour and texture that is set to impress. The fine horizontal lines lend a dynamic quality to the dial, which, when combined with the sunray brushing and smokey effect on the black or blue dials of the automatic version adds up to a watch with a lot to offer.

Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2110.BA0627
Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic, ref. WBP2111.BA0627

While the 40mm Calibre 5 powered automatics will be the watches most people will focus on, there are plenty of other solid options in the lineup. The 30mm automatics feature the same degredé dials, along with diamond hours for a pleasing combination of smoke and sparkle, while the quartz versions offer a mixed back, from the horizontal stripes on the larger size through to mother-of-pearl and diamonds on the women’s models.

Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Automatic, ref. WBP2410.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Automatic, ref. WBP2410.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Automatic, ref. WBP2411.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Automatic, ref. WBP2411.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1410.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1410.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1411.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1411.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1415.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1415.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1416.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1416.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1417.BA0622
Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz, ref. WBP1417.BA0622

This new Aquaracer Professional 200 line is a further reminder that TAG Heuer has more arrows in its proverbial quiver than chronographs, as well as a strong design lineage that extends beyond certified icons like the Carrera and the Monaco into the world of underwater adventure.

Tech Specs

Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Automatic

WBP2110.BA0627
WBP2110.BA0627
WBP2111.BA0627
WBP2111.BA0627

Movement: Calibre 5 Automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: 40mm steel, brushed and polished, steel bezel with 60-minute scale and 200M water resistance
Strap: Steel three row bracelet with steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons

Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Automatic

WBP2410.BA0622
WBP2410.BA0622
WBP2411.BA0622
WBP2411.BA0622

Movement: Calibre 9 Automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: 30mm steel, brushed and polished, steel bezel with 60-minute scale and 200M water resistance
Strap: Steel three row bracelet with steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons

Aquaracer Professional 200 40mm Quartz

WBP1110.BA0627
WBP1110.BA0627
WBP1111.BA0627
WBP1111.BA0627

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 40mm steel, brushed and polished, steel bezel with 60-minute scale and 200M water resistance
Strap: Steel three row bracelet with steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons

Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Quartz

WBP1410.BA0622
WBP1410.BA0622
WBP1411.BA0622
WBP1411.BA0622
WBP1415.BA0622
WBP1415.BA0622
WBP1416.BA0622
WBP1416.BA0622
WBP1417.BA0622
WBP1417.BA0622

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 30mm steel, brushed and polished, steel bezel with 60-minute scale and 200M water resistance, diamond options available
Strap: Steel three row bracelet with steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons

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Felix Scholz

Felix Scholz has spent the last decade covering watches from his home in Australia. Given this, it's surprising that he still struggles with time zones. Over the years he's become a firm believer that less is more when it comes to watch design – except when a rainbow bezel is involved. He's written for numerous titles including Hodinkee, GQ, A Collected Man and more. These days he looks after the Australian edition of Revolution and takes a break from writing about watches to talk about them, as the co-host of OT: The Podcast.

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