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Louis Vuitton Masters Métiers d’Art in Its Own Style

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Louis Vuitton Masters Métiers d’Art in Its Own Style

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Blending classical artistry with a contemporary flair.
Louis Vuitton may be skipping Watches & Wonders, but they’re making a bold statement nonetheless. Their Escale Cabinet of Wonders trio stands poised to challenge the status quo of métiers d’art watchmaking.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Dragon’s Cloud

The French watchmaker has consistently delivered impressive métiers d’art watches in recent years. The Escale trio builds on this legacy, rivaling the finest examples from established watchmakers. But more than that, LV does it their way. They don’t simply mimic the classical Genevan style or try to imitate established houses like Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin.

A-team artisanship

This collection boasts a breathtaking display of métiers d’art, showcasing Asian-inspired themes like bamboo, koi fish, and dragons.
Louis Vuitton assembled a dream team of artisans for this project, including the likes of master enameller Vanessa Lecci, damascening specialist Fanny Queloz, engraver duo Dick Steenman and Eddy Jaquet, and marquetry specialist Rose Saneuil. In a recent interview, their excitement for the project was palpable – Lecci’s enthusiasm mirrored the vibrancy of the artwork itself.
But the magic doesn’t just happen on its own. The mastermind behind this harmonious collaboration is Marie Boutteçon, the designer specializing in métiers d’art. Her role is crucial – she orchestrates the artists’ visions, ensuring they coalesce into pieces that embody both the individual artistic spirit and the quintessential Louis Vuitton style.

LV’s way

So, what sets LV apart? Look no further than the design and composition of the dials. As a fashion powerhouse with a keen eye, LV excels in aesthetics. These watches are more than just showcases of intricate craftsmanship; they are, first and foremost, beautiful objects.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Dragon’s Cloud

This focus on design is precisely where LV shines. Some métiers d’art pieces prioritize technical prowess over visual appeal, but LV strikes a perfect balance. Their depictions of familiar motifs are fresh and innovative. Take the dragon, a ubiquitous theme this year. Finding a dragon that feels both classic and contemporary is a rarity. The LV design team masters this by using a variety of decorative techniques for different sections of the dragon, seamlessly integrating the brand’s monogram into the background.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Dragon’s Cloud

This approach is evident throughout the collection. The koi fish watch features refreshing light blue pebbles with the LV monogram nestled among them. The fish themselves are rendered in a striking dark blue, a bold departure from the typical red and orange.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Koï’s Garden

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Koï’s Garden

Depth and design

Another hallmark of LV’s artistry is the creation of captivating visual depth on the dials. They achieve this by employing a thoughtful mix of techniques, resulting in a layered effect that remains clear and uncluttered. 

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Snake’s Jungle

The Snake’s Jungle exemplifies this perfectly. A gleaming enamel snake winds its way around a textured bamboo forest crafted from a combination of wood, straw, and leather marquetry.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Snake’s Jungle

The contrasting textures and finishes – smooth versus textured, raised versus flat – create a dynamic scene while maintaining a unified color palette. This is design mastery at its finest. And it’s important to remember that design is, after all, the soul of any artwork.

Technical virtuosity

The technical execution of these watches is impressive, particularly when it comes to the blending of various artisanal techniques. The Snake’s Jungle, for instance, is a testament to LV’s ability to combine marquetry, engraving, and enameling. The champlevé enamel on the bamboo leaves deserves special mention. Here, the engraved patterns of the leaves peek through the translucent green enamel, creating a mesmerizing effect. 
The Koï’s Garden showcases a stunning interplay of sculpting, engraving, and gem setting for the fish and the background wave. 
The Dragon’s Cloud merges engraving and enameling with the exquisite technique of damascening, which involves pressing and shaping gold wire onto the dial. The process begins with a textured base created by hammering the surface, followed by carefully carving grooves to receive the gold wire.
The dragon itself is then brought to life through engraving and paillonné enameling, a dazzling technique that utilizes tiny flakes of gold, leaving its scales shimmering – a touch of LV magic with the brand’s signature Monogram flower subtly incorporated.

Louis Vuitton Escale – Cabinet of Wonders – Dragon’s Cloud

Beyond the dials

The dedication to detail extends beyond the dials. The case – bezel, sides, and even the movement – features engraved motifs that echo the theme on the watch face.  While the case sides and movement utilize machine engraving for efficiency, the bezel features hand-crafted work. 

Familiar yet intriguing

Inside the watch ticks not a generic movement, but the LFT023. This familiar micro-rotor movement, developed by Le Cercle des Horlogers and also seen in the latest Tambour watch, offers a more interesting technical proposition than many standard ETA-based movements. While not finished to the highest haute horlogerie standards, the LFT023 benefits from engraving on the movement and beveling on the bridges, contributing to the overall high-quality look and feel.
The Escale Cabinet of Wonders is a feast for the eyes. Forget brand history, forget comparisons – scrutinize the details, and you’ll see a future star in the making.

Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Movement: LFT023; automatic; 50 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 40 mm x 12.04 mm; 18 k white gold (Koi’s Garden and Snake’s Jungle) or 18k rose gold (Dragon’s Cloud); water resistant to 50 m
Availability: Only at boutiques
Limited edition: 20 pieces each