Editorial

Longines Rounds Out the Redesigned Master Collection

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Editorial

Longines Rounds Out the Redesigned Master Collection

The Master Collection’s first monopusher, a newly proportioned moonphase chronograph and fresh three-hand references give Longines’ core classical collection a clearer identity.

Since the Longines Master Collection launched in 2005, it served as one of the brand’s landmark showcases for traditional mechanical watch making. Its catalogue has encompassed a broad showing – from simple automatic three-handers to chronographs, calendars, moonphases and combinations of other complications.

 

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher and Chrono Moonphase

 

This year, Longines is doing a full exercise to bring the expansive Master Collection family into a much sharper focus. We saw the first phase of redesigns arrived in June, establishing a new visual language across simple three-hand models in 30mm, 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm: the concave bezels, reworked barleycorn patterns and redesigned bracelets. Longines now extends this DNA across two chronograph models, while adding further blue-dial and two-tone variations to the three hand range.

 

A New Monopusher for the Master Collection

 

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher in silver opaline

 

The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is the most significant addition to the family – as the first single-pusher chronograph to enter the collection. It’s also handsomely executed.

 

Its start, stop and reset functions are all operated through a single button integrated into the crown. The pulsometer scale encircling the dial allows the wearer to calculate heart rate after timing 30 beats – a special feature rooted in medical chronographs once used by doctors before electronic monitoring became norm.

 

The watch is housed in a 41mm stainless-steel case measuring 12.6mm thick and a 48.6mm lug-to-lug. It also has the concave bezel seen in the redesigned collection, while the two-register layout keeps the chronograph display clean and uncluttered. The running seconds is on the 9 o’clock while the 30-minute counter is on the opposite at the three.

 

Two dial executions are available from launch. The first is a silver opaline look with polished rhodium-plated numerals and hands, while the second is a frosted blue with rose-gold-plated details. Both dials have the signature barleycorn pattern, snail-finished counters and a sandblasted outer ring for clear distinction within each section. The watches come supplied with either an anthracite or brown alligator straps fitted with micro-adjustable folding clasps.

 

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher in frosted blue barleycorn

 

Powering the watch is the Longines manual-winding caliber L799.5, visible through the sapphire caseback. It’s a column-wheel chronograph with a silicon balance spring, providing 68 hours of power.

 

The monopusher also reconnects the Master Collection with a significant chapter of Longines’ history. The brand’s archives actually trace its earliest monopusher wrist chronographs to 1911. Two years later, the compact caliber 13.33Z enabled Longines to fully produce its first wrist chronograph in a larger series, and it was definitively recognized as one of the earliest small chronograph movements developed for the wrist.

 

Historical Longines Monopusher

 

Tech Specs: Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher

Movement Longines-exclusive calibre L799.5, manual winding, column-wheel chronograph, 68-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds; central chronograph seconds and 30-minute counter; pulsometer
Case Stainless steel, 41 × 12.6mm; 48.6mm lug to lug; sapphire crystal and display caseback; water-resistant to 30 metres
Dials Silver opaline or frosted blue barleycorn
Strap Anthracite or brown alligator leather with micro-adjustable folding clasp
Price USD 3,900

 

The Chrono Moonphase Moves to 41mm

 

Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase

 

The new Chrono Moonphase is a revision of one of the Master Collection’s household complications, now in a 41mm case. The preceding model was available in either 40mm and 42mm, placing this redesigned version directly between the two.  The 41mm diameter is also used in the Monopusher Chrono, giving both of these models a consistent and more contemporary format.

 

Measuring at 13.8mm thick and 48.6mm from lug to lug, the case frames a silver dial decorated with the barleycorn pattern, nine applied blue Arabic numerals, and blued steel hands. Intricate snail finishing around the three counters completes the look of the dial.

 

Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase

 

The watch remains information-rich. Small seconds share the nine o’clock counter with a 24-hour indication, while the counter at 12 combines the 30-minute chronograph with the day and month windows. At the six, the 12-hour chronograph totaliser surrounds the moonphase, and a half-moon-tipped central hand indicates the date around the dial’s circumference .

 

Inside is the Longines automatic caliber L687.5 with an integrated column-wheel chronograph and a silicon balance spring, offering 66 hours of power reserve. The watch is offered on a blue alligator strap or the redesigned stainless-steel bracelet, both with micro-adjustable folding clasps.

 

Tech Specs: Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase

Movement Longines-exclusive calibre L687.5, automatic, column-wheel chronograph, 66-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-hour indication, pointer date, day, month, moonphase; central chronograph seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Case Stainless steel, 41 × 13.8mm; 48.6mm lug to lug; sapphire crystal and display caseback; water-resistant to 30 metres
Dial Silver barleycorn with applied blue Arabic numerals and blued steel hands
Strap/Bracelet Blue alligator leather or stainless steel; micro-adjustable folding clasp
Price USD 4,250

 

Four Sizes for the Three-Hand Collection

 

This expansion introduces new treatments with frosted blue sunray dials set with 11 Top Wesselton diamonds to the 30mm and 34mm steel models, accompanied by two-tone yellow- and rose-gold versions with white mother-of-pearl dials and diamond indexes.

 

For the larger 39mm and 41mm, they receive light blue barleycorn dials with applied Arabic numerals and rhodium-plated hands. Both sizes are available on anthracite alligator straps or stainless-steel bracelets.

 

The 30mm models use the automatic calibre L592.5, offering up to 45 hours of power reserve. The 34mm, 39mm and 41mm watches are powered by the automatic calibre L888.5, running at 3.5Hz with up to 72 hours of reserve. All feature silicon balance springs, date windows at three o’clock and sapphire display casebacks.

 

The bracelets have also been redesigned with shorter links, and the folding clasps offer micro-adjustment

 

The bracelets have also been redesigned with shorter links for greater flexibility and folding clasps offering micro-adjustment. Despite the dress-oriented look, water resistance is at a modest 30 metres throughout the collection.

 

Tech Specs: Longines Master Collection Three-Hand Models

Movement Calibre L592.5 in 30mm models, automatic, 4Hz, 45-hour power reserve; calibre L888.5 in 34mm, 39mm and 41mm models, automatic, 3.5Hz, 72-hour power reserve; silicon balance springs
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Cases 30 × 9.1mm; 34 × 9.3mm; 39 × 9.05mm; or 41 × 9.5mm; sapphire crystals and display casebacks; water-resistant to 30 metres
Dials Frosted blue sunray, white mother-of-pearl with diamond indexes, or light blue barleycorn
Strap/Bracelet Alligator leather, stainless steel or two-tone bracelet; micro-adjustable folding clasp
Price 30mm: USD2,850 in steel; USD4,250 with yellow- or rose-gold-capped two-tone bracelet
34mm: USD3,000 in steel; USD4,700 with yellow- or rose-gold-capped two-tone bracelet
39mm: USD2,650 on leather strap or steel bracelet
41mm: USD2,750 on leather strap or steel bracelet

 

The Home of Elegance

This renewed Master Collection also spotlights the centrepiece of Longines’ new Home of Elegance campaign, bringing all six of its Ambassadors of Elegance together for the first time. Kate Winslet, Eddie Peng, Jennifer Lawrence, Henry Cavill, Zhao Liying and Yosh Yu are under one roof in a warm, intimate setting built around their own expressions of style.

 

 

Brands:
Longines