Interviews
Talking Jacob & Co. Watches with Santa Laura
He recalled with a laugh, “They actually thanked me for buying it. When I first bought the Leopard Daytona, everyone thought I was crazy, but I didn’t care — I loved the creativity and use of color in this watch. That’s the way I’ve always collected.” Santa Laura has, of course, since proven himself to be remarkably prescient, as almost every single timepiece he selected has become hugely desirable years later. He explained, “Yes, but that’s never the objective. I never buy a watch thinking about how much it is going to be worth in six months’ time. Which is unfortunately the trend today. Watches have become commodities.”
As I was rummaging through the custom-made multi- tiered edifice of horological dopeness that is the titanic case that houses his collection at home, I came across a watch that intrigued me. As it turned out, it was a watch that Santa Laura was interested to talk about. He stated, “This watch is just incredible to me. It’s a Jacob Twin Turbo Furious. To me, what it features is absolutely insane. Firstly, it’s got two triple- axis tourbillons. Then, it’s got a column wheel monopusher chronograph. On top of all of this, it’s got a minute repeater.”
We must have brought 10 or more watches. When the watches were revealed, we realized that we liked a Patek cathedral gong repeater the best, and the Jacob came in second. Also, when you calculate the cost of the three complications together, even at a retail price above USD 500,000, I consider the Twin Turbo to be a strong value proposition. If any of the other rock star independent brands did this, the watch would easily be a million. And on top of that, the watches would not be as cool or as fun.
I explained to Santa Laura that in a recent interview with François-Paul Journe, the independent watchmaker shared how he decides to allocate a watch to a collector. Because in today’s heady environment, the secondary profit on all his watches is the equivalent of a luxury car. Journe told me, “I look for the collector that would have been willing to lose 20 percent in the old days, rather than make money. Those are the type of collectors I will allocate my watches to.”
Said Santa Laura, “Precisely right, that was what we all believed in before, and if we didn’t have that mentality, watch collecting would not exist today. But today, what is happening is so many people are buying watches as investments. When you see your friend doing this, you want to do it as well. Because everyone wants to be successful and make money at the same time. But to me when it comes to watch collecting, that’s where the passion becomes more faded. So it is only natural for me that I look now for brands that are flying under the radar, and Jacob is exactly this. A brand that is making truly incredible things but flying a bit under the radar.”
When asked what appeals to him the most about any watch, Santa Laura was quick to reply, “It’s the emotion a watch gives me. I look at Jacob and I get the same feeling I get when I look at an Urwerk or a De Bethune. It’s a vision of watchmaking that is unique and totally different than the mainstream. I’m not saying that Rolexes are not nice or that Pateks are not nice, but this is different, more individual. I think one of the reasons that independent brands have gained so much momentum and visibility is because no one can buy a Rolex, a Patek, a Richard Mille. So the educated collector wants to look at what is really rare and unique, and he lands on independents.
Santa Laura’s Jacob & Co. Watches
Indeed, it was precisely in this manner that Jacob watches first came to Santa Laura’s attention. Watch collectors often talk about “wrist presence,” and one thing that is undeniable is that every Jacob watch is in possession of a Herculean dose of that quality. Said Santa Laura, “I learned about Jacob’s watches sitting in the airplane. I was in the cabin and I noticed that every time that the stewardess or a member of aircrew walked past this one person, they would stop and ask him, ‘Excuse me sir, but what timepiece are you wearing?’ It was only after the second person asked that I identified the name Jacob. And there I was wearing MB&Fs and Urwerks, and I said to myself, ‘OK, when I land in Dubai, I’m going to find out what Jacob watches are all about. So I went to go see the watches. Then I called a friend of mine in New York who explained to me the brand history and everything about the man and his watches. I started to do my own research, which is a process I absolutely love.”
“My point is, when it comes to watch collecting, you should buy with your heart. That’s what I feel watch collecting should be about. So if you are moved by passion and not just dollar and cents, I think you will find Jacob to be very appealing.”