For Geneva Watch Days 2021, Ferdinand Berthoud revisits the watch that was announced to launch the brand back in 2015, but as a decidedly sportier timepiece. First a quick reminder of what this timepiece was: The Chronomètre FB 1.

The Chronomètre FB 1 features a 44m octagonal case housing the calibre FB-T.FC hand wound movement. The movement boasted a low frequency tourbillon, 3Hz to be precise, with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission and a direct drive large center seconds paired with the offset hour and minute subdial.

The dramatic time indications and tourbillon aside, the movement construction was also impressive in it having a pillar-type architecture, where bridges of the movement are secured to the baseplate using six titanium pillars. For all there is to say about the movement construction, and in line with calling the watch the Chronomètre FB 1, Ferdinand Berthoud ensured that the timepiece was COSC certified for good measure. In an evolution of the FB-T.FC, the maison later created the FB-T.FC-2, which is particularly distinguished by the use of three angled, engraved transparent sapphire half bridges, fitted on the stylised titanium pillars.

Thus far we’ve seen the Chronomètre FB 1 progressed in various executions in white gold, rose gold, platinum and even titanium. Geneva Watch Days 2021, however, sees the watch for the first time with an all-black DLC treatment to its fine sand-blasted steel case. Ferdinand Berthoud has made the watch as a pièce unique for the Monaco Art In Time initiative. And in line with Art In Time’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, dedicated to building a sustainable future.

Speaking about how the watch turned out Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud shares, “Each of our creations has its own identity. This one is no exception, communicating a decidedly sporty feel. Over the past few years, the FB 1 collection has demonstrated its capacity to embody a range of different styles. There can be no doubt that this unique watch marks a major milestone in our history – and a significant step towards the ultimate customisation possibilities opened up by the collection.”

Tech Specs: Ref. FB 1.6-3

Movement: Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB-T.FC-2; hours, minutes and direct drive seconds ; 1 minute tourbillon in titanium with carriage assembled with 3 polished titanium pillars; power reserve: 53 hours
Case: 44mm black DLC-treated octagonal stainless steel case with two transparent sapphire portholes; thickness: 13 mm; 9 mm black DLC-treated stainless steel dynamometric crown (decoupling system) with black ceramic medallion; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Vertical satin-brushed dial with semi-matte black galvanised treatment; angled open dial centre and power reserve indicator; black bevels; off-centre hours and minutes sub-dial, sand-blasted, semi-matte black galvanised treatment, red Arabic numerals; black translucent sapphire crystal seconds track; power reserve indication engraved on base plate: “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”; power reserve indicator: arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” and “BAS” (‘HIGH’ and ‘LOW’); inscription: “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”
Hands: Facetted and openworked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold, coated with white luminous material (Super-LumiNova); red varnished 18-carat white gold arrow-shaped power reserve hand: red varnished bronze central seconds hand
Strap and Buckle: Rubber strap (115 x 75mm, 20mm buckle); range of sizes available on request; black DLC-treated 18-carat white gold pin buckle; ceramised titanium, double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

Technical Characteristics

• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
• Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
• Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
• Swiss lever escapement
• Three angled, engraved transparent sapphire half bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
• Hand finishes to the highest watchmaking standards
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC