The Low-Down

Created in 1992, the Master Control collection takes its aesthetic cues and creation principle from the heyday of recent-modern mechanical watchmaking — the 1950s, according to Jaeger-LeCoultre. Accordingly, the Master Control is characterized by practical round-cased timepieces which are elegant in a restrained, unfussy fashion.

For the 30th anniversary of the Master Control collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre is marking the occasion with two limited-edition stainless steel models, distinguished by their deep-blue dials with a sunray finish. In keeping with the design principles underpinning the rest of the collection, the Master Control Date is a study in dial clarity and precise reading of the time. Arabic numerals, date window and dart markers afford a handsome symmetry in displaying date and hours, while the distinct minute divisions supplemented by lumed dots at five-minute intervals are made even easier on the eyes by laying them on a minute track in a lighter shade of blue. Polished, faceted dauphine hands with just a thin line of luminescent paint on them provide high-contrast reading without being gaudy. In a 40mm case with slim bezel that accentuates the expansiveness and beauty of the dial, the Master Control Date maintains an elegant profile with beveled lugs, satin-finished caseband and slim case height under 10mm. A display back shows off the self-winding caliber 899AC, boasting a power reserve of 70 hours.

The Master Control Calendar shares the same design codes as the Master Control Date, with the addition of two windows under “12” that display day and month, with date on the outer periphery indicated by a red-tipped central hand. In order that this date hand never obscures the subdial at “6” that contains the moon phase and small seconds, this date hand makes a 90-degree jump between the 15th and 16th day of the month. The Master Control Calendar is driven by the calibre 866AA, capable of a power reserve of 70 hours and visible through the display back. Case height remains relatively slim, at a touch over 10mm.

Both the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar are released in limited editions of 800 watches each.

IMHO

In the 1950s, watches for everyday wear were relatively dressy, with silvered dials and uncomplicated dial displays. They weren’t “dress watches”, strictly speaking, since they were appropriate for most occasions. The Master Collection is a great way to revisit this do-all ideal, presenting highly capable timepieces — Jaeger-LeCoultre started its 1000 Hours Control quality assurance regime with this line before extending it to the rest of its collections — that are so refined and discreet at the same time. The dreamy blue dials of the limited editions are a little fancy in this regard, but it’s for an anniversary, so that’s fine.

Tech Specs

Master Control Date Ref. Q4018480

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 899AC self-winding movement; 70 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: 40mm x 8.78mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 50m
Strap: Calf leather
Availability: Limited edition of 800 pieces

Master Control Calendar Ref. Q4148480

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 866AA self-winding movement; 70 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, moon phases
Case: 40mm x 10.95mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 50m
Strap: Calf leather
Availability: Limited edition of 800 pieces