Watches & Wonders 2021 now moves to the West Bund Center Shanghai to celebrate the second part of the watchmaking festival (now with people meeting live, in person!), and it’s Panerai’s turn to inaugurate the festivities with two new Luminor timepieces that are as interesting as different from each other.
LUMINOR CHRONO GOLDTECH BLU NOTTE – PAM01111
While it is nice to go through life and suddenly identify from a distance a Panerai on someone’s wrist (something quite easy), the excitement expands when that model carries some additional function, such as a power reserve indicator, for example. But when it comes to a Luminor or Radiomir chronograph, you have to stop on your tracks and pay attention because it is a big deal. You don’t see a Panerai chrono every day, you know?
Since the emergence of the unique Radiomir Mare Nostrum chronograph in 1943, a heavy-duty prototype created for the Italian Navy, the Florentine chronographs have always been highly appreciated. From the “conventional”, outsourced chronograph calibers of the turn of this century, to the first manufacture movement —the excellent P.2004 with single pusher activation and 8-day power reserve—, to limited editions that equipped some original Minerva calibers in the mid-2010s, all Panerai chronographs are an unmissable, special breed. And today, thanks to the dissemination of the Neuchâtel manufacture’s own new-generation calibers (P.9100/9200), the offer keeps getting richer with more varied executions, just as we saw a few days ago at the virtual Geneva Watches & Wonders.
But for the new Luminor Chrono Goldtech Blu Notte (PAM01111), the formula mainly focuses on the aesthetic aspect (which happens to be somewhat technical thanks to the case material). Thus, a nocturnal hue brings some color to this new Luminor chronograph, the Goldtech Blue Notte. As its very Italian surname describes, we encounter a deep blue dial protected by a resounding case in the special gold alloy. Goldtech gold is characterized by high percentages of copper and platinum that give it an intense color and greater oxidation resistance. The advanced and precious alloy brings a new aesthetic dimension to the 44mm Luminor cushion-shaped case with its patented crown protector. It is frankly striking.
On the functional side, the chrono pushers lie on the left of the case, while the flange, in blue with white and gold lettering, is graduated with a tachymeter scale to calculate average speeds. On the dial, the running seconds subdial maintains its location and appearance at 9 o’clock, while at 3 o’clock we observe the 30-minute counter.
Protected by a smoked sapphire crystal window, integrated into the case back and decorated with a wave pattern through a metallization process, the Chrono Goldtech Blu Notte employs the new P.9200 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. Resistant to a depth of 50 meters, the watch is accompanied by a deep blue alligator leather strap with a brushed Panerai Goldtech clasp. An additional blue rubber strap (included), adds variety and sportiness.
LUMINOR PICCOLO DUE MADREPERLA – PAM01280
On the other side of the Panerai watchmaking spectrum, we find the Luminor Due series, with reduced case sizes, softened lines, and finer executions. Born in 2016, Luminor Due broke with the Florentine house’s tradition of heavy-duty, professional specifications and designs to offer a “lighter” version of Panerai, one more style-oriented than technical, but generally retaining the form and essence of the iconic dive watch born in 1950.
Today, Luminor Due expands with a new and delicate interpretation. The Piccolo Due Madreperla, which offers a mother-of-pearl dial that generates a myriad of colored flashes, ranging from pink to blue. The lovely dial is enhanced by the hands, indexes, and date frame in pink gold plating. For proper readability in low light conditions, the hands and hour markers are filled with green-activated Super-LumiNova. The slim watch case keeps the 38 mm size of the Due series, and in the Madreperla, it is made of Goldtech.
The Due Piccolo includes an eye-catching red crocodile leather strap with Panerai’s “Quick Release” system for an easy and quick swap. With that in mind, Panerai is quick to mention that you can purchase other strap types and colors at the brand’s retail establishments to customize the Piccolo Due’s appearance to your liking.
Panerai Luminor Chorno Goldtech Blu Notte PAM01111
Movement: Mechanical self-winding cal. P.9200; hours, minutes and small seconds; 30-minute chronograph (central seconds, 30-min counter at 3 o’clock); 28,800 bph, 42-hour power reserve
Case: Goldtech (TM), 44mm, with patented crown protection; polished bezel, smoked and patterned screw-down case back, 50-meter water resistance
Dial: Blue “Blu Notte” with satin sunray finish, sandwich structure with Arabic numerals and indexes in Super-LumiNova
Strap: Blue crocodile leather with pin buckle; an additional blue rubber strap is included
Price: HKD 205,900
Panerai Luminor Due Piccolo Madreperla PAM01280
Movement: Mechanical self-winding cal. P.900; hours, minutes and small seconds; date; 28,800 bph, 72-hour power reserve
Case: Goldtech (TM), 38mm, with patented crown protection; polished bezel, transparent screw-down case back, 30-meter water resistance
Dial: White mother-of-pearl with applied gold-plated Arabic numerals and hour markers
Strap: Red crocodile leather with pin buckle and with “Quick Release” interchangeability system