In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. made headlines with the launch of the sleek Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, which was the first self-winding chrono with a central display and a flyback function. Modelled after the high-speed Streamliner trains from the 1920s, this watch with its perfectly rounded curves, fume dial, integrated bracelet and an all new in-house movement, set the stage for Moser’s big launch this year — the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.
In trademark Moser style, the new perpetual calendar evokes the elegance and simplicity of the Perpetual 1 from 2005. An ingenious complication with a movement devised by Andreas Strehler for Moser, the Perpetual 1 was unlike any other on the market at the time, most of which were too complicated to read. Equipped with the patented “flash-calendar”, which ensured instantaneous change in date at the end of every month, the Perpetual 1 was powered by the manual wound caliber HMC 341 with twin spring barrels.
Moser’s latest offering brings together the best features from the Streamliner collection and the Perpetual 1 in the form of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar equipped with HMC 812 that delivers a power reserve of 168 hours.The hand-wound HMC 812 has the same advantages as the HMC 341, to which a direct-drive central seconds hand has been added. Positioned at 4 o’clock, the date window works on two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31. Thanks to the flash calendar mechanism, the date can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of the day. The watch’s minimalist vibe goes nice and strong with the leap year indicator casually stowed away on the movement side and the power reserve display at 10 o’clock. One of the most striking features on the dial is the use of
indices to indicate the months via a small red and white central hand.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets my vote for its clutter-free, classical design and robust movement. Moser has kept this watch truly elegant even on a 42.3mm steel case with a height of 11mm. The harmoniously designed curves of the watch complement the integrated bracelet to the T. The first thing that strikes you about this watch, is of course, the understated yet gorgeous fumé dial adorned with a sunburst pattern.Surrounding the dial is the red and white outer minute track that measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand are reminiscent of those on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments. Moser has chosen a pair of elegant, curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®.
Last but not the least, the wearer gets to admire the beautifully finished movement HMC 812 through a transparent caseback, which reveals the traditional Moser double horizontal stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is micro blasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.
Movement: Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre; 168 hours of power reserve; frequency 18,000 vib/h
Case & Dial: 42.3mm steel case; screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M”; transparent caseback; water-resistant to 12 ATM; black or fumé with sunburst pattern dial; Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts; Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal Minute track for seconds and minutes; Applique indices
Bracelet: Integrated steel bracelet; folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo;Half-links available
Price: USD 54,900 05