The Low-Down

In a further step towards its consolidation and increased prestige, Czapek presented a new evolution of the powerful Antarctique, its sporty timepiece driven by the self-winding caliber SHX5. The movement features a unique micro-rotor made from recycled platinum, and is 100 percent developed in-house under the direction of CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. This watch once again proved its success by being sold out shortly after its launch, reaffirming once more the successful directive creation the brand follows.

Antarctique is the essential Czapek timepiece. It is distinguished by its classic case — that qualifies as a tonneau shape — and is complemented by a diverse range of incredible dials where the textures gain preponderance before the demure presence of the hands, the date at six o’clock (when present), and the applied baton indexes. With a thickness of 10.6mm, the watch can be described as slim and ergonomic without losing an iota of visual power.

The regular steel Antarctique watches are limited to 99 pieces, while the handcrafted dials —like this one, already sold out— are restricted to 10 watches. Like the Orion Nebula and Abyss models launched in 2020, this year’s special edition Antarctique Emerald Iceberg features a hand-varnished dial. Created using a proprietary technique developed by Metalem in Le Locle, the dial is first varnished, hand-painted with a brush, lacquered, and finally polished. All steps are done by hand, so each dial is unique. And this green one is otherworldly.

The Antarctique Emerald Iceberg proposed a new idea for the prevalent green color on the dial. According to Czapek, this chromatic variety is expressly found in Antarctica but only in certain regions. The watch’s name, Emerald Iceberg, recalls the 1798 poem, “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner,” in which Samuel Taylor Coleridge describes an Antarctic sailor seeing “ice, mast high, …. As green as emerald.” However, although green icebergs have captivated humans for more than a century, no one has been able to explain the origin of this mysterious dye adequately. Indeed, various scientific theories abound on how the color came about, but let’s stick with the poetic charm with which Coleridge describes it.

IMHO

Since its release and despite its relatively simple design, the Antarctique has established itself as the most crucial watch in Czapek’s young history and one that will — no doubt — carry that distinction for a long time to come. It is a powerfully designed three-hand watch, and with its in-house caliber SXH5, stands toe to toe with the unassailable grail sports watches in stainless steel. That Roquemaurel and his team chose to debut their first-ever manufacture caliber in this collection shows their confidence in the watch and the house’s technical and design prowess. They have succeeded in creating a distinguished case that is, in my opinion, well differentiated from the steel icons of the category. This step strengthens Czapek’s credibility as an independent creator, opening its doors to collectors who are not looking for complications but who just want a cool, unique three-hand watch.

The Emerald Iceberg dial is not something you often see, with haunting green swirls that seem to float, apparition-like, on a deep black background. While the dial is mesmerizing, the casework is formidable, with meticulous vertical brushing that finds perfect continuity on the bracelet and raised mirror-polished bezel. The case is integrated with an original double “trompe l’oeil” curve, another unconventional design choice that lends character to this timepiece. The bracelet is also well integrated into the end of the case with C-shaped center links that bring to mind the first letter of the brand’s name. Worn on a bracelet, the watch looks eminent, distinguished, with a certain vintage flair reminiscent of Zenith’s Defy from the 1970s and even Vacheron Constantin 222. That said, the Czapek is its own example. The bad news is that were only 10 pieces of this gem of a watch and they all found new homes very quickly, so we’d better stay tuned for future equally artistic executions of the Czapek Antarctique.

EDITORS NOTE: The text has been amended to clarify that the Antarctique Emerald iceberg is no longer available, as the watch was presented earlier in the year, during the spring, and quickly sold out. The writer extends his apologies for any confusion created.

Tech Specs

Movement: Self-winding manufacture caliber SXH5; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: 40.5mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 120m
Strap: Integrated steel bracelet; additional black leather