IAMWATCH, hosted by The Hour Glass from October 17-20 in Singapore, brought together a diverse and illustrious collection of watchmakers, collectors, and horology enthusiasts for a celebration of craftsmanship, innovation, and independent watchmaking. It marked the first edition of what is sure to become a milestone event in the global horological calendar. 

For watchmakers such as Stepan Sarpaneva, Sylvain Pinaud, and Benoît Mintiens, they shared that while their participation in IAMWATCH was an opportunity to meet collectors in the region, they were nevertheless overwhelmed with the responses in person. “I wasn’t expecting anything when I came,” said Sarpaneva. “Sure I wanted to visit Singapore, but now I’m finally visiting those people that have been ordering or buying watches, through The Hour Glass or directly from me, from the last 20 years. And these kinds of shows are really important, because, especially for the small makers like me, who’s based in Finland, there’s not too many makers like us in the Nordic countries who are capable of traveling and selling watches here.”

“This show has surpassed my expectations,” said Pinaud. “I only make 15 pieces a year, which thereafter I have to say to the next buyer, I’m sorry, I’m full, or they have to wait for the next edition. Yet here, people say, “Oh, can we take pictures with you?” I see myself as just a worker with dirty hands at the end of the day, but people take me for a magician or a rock star. It was very strange at the beginning to see the energy of people and the love that they have for watchmaking. So, yeah, really, the first day was a blast.”

“It’s always super nice to see the clients in real life and to also be able to explain more in-depth,” shared Mintiens. “It’s all about passion, much like going to a football match. It’s always better to be there in person.”

Across the room, you already had a mixed bag. From veterans such as Maximilian Büsser to young yet serious watchmakers such as Trilobe’s Gautier Massonneau and Théo Auffret, the indie watchmaking identity has proven to be vast and diverse. Yet together, they each recognize the evolution of independent watchmaking, which has grown exponentially in the last few years — a change that they take positively. “We already have plans to set up the workshop in the center of Paris, and we want to stay there for a long time,” said Auffret.

“Our Parisian identity is one that we strongly want to express — that we are different from the watches made in Switzerland. Yet there’s also a touch of modernity connected to what is Paris today — it’s still the city of fashion, creators and some kind of romantic stuff. We have to be committed to what we want to create, and not just make copies of Swiss-made watches.”

“I always say that design is not a democracy,” said fellow Paris-based designer, Massonneau. “You have to have one person doing the design, otherwise you end up with something blurry. The expectations of collectors are getting higher. They want to know more, so it’s challenging, but we must know how to give an answer.”

“The new generation of design in independent watchmaking is way more conservative, with their super classic, neo-retro watches,” mused Büsser. “If you’d have told us 20 years later that the new generation would be doing 36mm classic watches, which is exactly what we rebelled against, we would find it hard to believe. Yet each wave is often a counter-culture to the previous culture; it’s a reaction. So maybe in 20 years, in 2044, we’ll have to see if the next generation will be completely insane or not.”

An impressive roster of independent watchmakers, clockmakers, and craftsmen

Konstantin Chaykin, famed for his whimsical “Joker” watches, captivated attendees with his characteristic blend of creativity and mechanical excellence, who, just recently, shocked the watch world with producing the thinnest mechanical watch that debuted at Geneva Watch Days this year. Cédric Johner, a Geneva-based craftsman, presented his unconventionally-designed cases alongside his meticulous engraving works. Petermann Bédat, represented by eponymous founders Florian and Gaël, presented their own lineup, of which included the Reference 1967 with deadbeat seconds. This particular piece holds special significance for a particular Singaporean collector, Aaron Wan, as he collected his first Petermann Bédat watch from the watchmakers themselves — reinforcing the importance of personal relationships in the collector’s world.  

Also on the scene were fresh new novelties. Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk introduced the UR-150 Scorpion, an avant-garde creation designed with their signature satellite time display and a forward-looking aesthetic. Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin, presented the new Freak ONE Navy Blue. Rémi Maillat of Krayon made a splash with the colorful Anywhere Arborea, which features a uniquely poetic way of displaying time based on sunrise and sunset calculations. Not forgetting Alcée Montfort, whose brand, Maison Alcée, presented the Persée Alcée, a mechanical clock that clients can assemble themselves. They’ve also launched a new retail space in Singapore in partnership with The Hour Glass group. This followed the brand’s successful debut at the MB&F MAD Gallery in Geneva and its win at the 2023 GPHG Audacity Prize. 

The roster of watchmaking talent was rounded out by luminaries from Rexhep Rexhepi to Rémy Cools, all of whom are known for their technical mastery and creative spirit. Attendees also had the opportunity to mingle with Kari Voutilainen, whose watches are renowned for their meticulous finishing and handcraftsmanship, and De Bethune’s Pierre Jacques, who exhibited the brand’s stylish and mechanically intricate creations. Biver, the eponymous brand from Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, presented their classical Automatique. Also on the frontlines was Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of both Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux.

The fair also shone a light on the often-overlooked craft of clockmaking. One of the most impressive displays was from La Vallée Clocks, represented by Massimiliano Quintavalle, who showcased a pièce unique perpetual calendar clock, a masterpiece that demonstrated the beauty and engineering prowess, running on a 30-day power reserve. Other notable clockmakers included Philippe Lebru for Utinam, a brand known for its modern reinterpretations of the classic mechanical clock, and Robert Bray of Sinclair Harding, whose work embodes centuries-old British horological traditions.

And last but certainly not least, Singaporean leather craftsman Hughes Low of Hughes Handcrafted and knifemaker Emmanuel Esposito were on-site to show off their wares, the latter having had a collaboration with Urwerk back in 2018 for the UR-T8 watch that featured a mosaic inlay technique. Not forgetting illustrator and designer Lee Yuen-Rapati who enthusiastically did sketches of participants’ watches on demand.

IAMWATCH’s bold step forward

The first-ever IAMWATCH fair exceeded expectations, leaving a lasting impression on both attendees and the broader horological community. In an era where mass production often overshadows individuality, IAMWATCH celebrated the artistry, innovation, and personal touch of independent watchmaking. By bringing together some of the world’s most talented artisans, the fair underscored the importance of fostering a community where collectors, enthusiasts, and watchmakers can engage directly.