As an icon of aviation watch history and of Breitling watchmaking, the Navitimer has taken on countless guises since its introduction during the Golden Age of air travel. This year is going to be a really big one for the company as it celebrates its 140^th anniversary. Breitling CEO Georges Kern gives us a major heads up, “All this year, we’ll be talking about our 140 Years of Firsts,” he says. “And when it comes to these two watches, the Navitimer and Cosmonaute, you cannot overstate the significance they’ve had for our brand, for aviation, and for watchmaking as a whole.”

In recent years, the company has done extremely well to modernize and update the Navitimer collection as a whole, endearing this professional pilot’s preferred timepiece to the lifestyle audience. So people who don’t fly planes but love the Navitimer’s sporty-chic aviation aesthetic now have a choice of different functions, sizes and colors. Joining the collection this year is the new Navitimer 41 — along with a new Cosmonaute B12 which we’ll get to in just a bit.

But wait, doesn’t Breitling already have a 41mm Navitimer Automatic? Indeed it does. So why did it introduce yet another? We’ll give you a hint: the boffins will be really excited by this one. Know what that means? Yes, no date! That, and a slew of other stylistic updates make the new Navitimer Automatic 41 well worth getting into.

Navitimer Automatic 41

First up, the new reference offers a perfectly harmonious dial layout unaffected by the presence of a date aperture (inasmuch as the date window on the current Navitimer Automatic cannot be more well-placed than where it is now, at the 6 o’clock position.) Still, the sheer number of watch geeks decrying the appearance of date displays of any kind makes it well worth Breitling’s while to introduce this sophisticated piece which is sleeker, and more contemporary in spirit as well.

Another immediately noticeable feature in this new model is the notched bezel also seen on the Navitimer B01 Chronograph models, lending the timepiece a robust sporty persona. In contrast, the current Navitimer Automatic 41 models feature a beaded bezel as a nod to the vintage Navitimers of the collection’s beautiful past. Streamlining the design even further is the use of a red-painted tip for the seconds hand rather than an arrow-tipped seconds hand in a contrasting color.

Breitling also refined the minutes track, dividing each minute into four segments to allow a more precise read on time. The movement within, Breitling caliber 17, oscillates at 28,800 vph which is a 4 Hz frequency and so the balance operates at four oscillations per second. As the seconds hand sweeps smoothly around the dial, you will be always able to discern with perfect clarity the time as it passes, accurate to 1/8^th of a second. For a watch that is COSC-certified, what could be more awesome than to be able to read the time just as accurately?

Of course both current and new references retain key semblances such as the simplified Breitling B logo, sword shaped hands and facetted indexes enhanced with SuperLumiNova, dials in a lovely sunray finishing, case and lugs with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The color palette as well remains similar, in choices of blue, green or ice blue for the stainless steel models, and silver for the steel-and-gold and full gold models. Customers can choose between an alligator leather strap with folding buckle, or the signature Navitimer seven-row bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

Navitimer Automatic GMT 41

Continuing the updated aesthetics delivered by the Navitimer Automatic 41 is the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Once again, the sense of modernity comes through in Breitling’s choice of colors and finishes. Black, silver or ice blue round up this series offered in stainless steel with a fourth option in full 18K red gold and a vibrant green dial. All these, and the familiar Breitling B logo just under 12 o’clock.

Naturally with the GMT function this model comes with an additional hand, noticeably tipped with a triangle portion for maximum distinction from the remaining three for the hours, minutes and seconds. Here, we have to applaud Breitling for incorporating the 24-hour GMT dial in the most discreet, elegant manner possible, featuring alternating numerals and indexes on the innermost circle.

Based on the Breitling caliber 32 which is based on a COSC-certified ETA caliber 2892-2 featuring a customized rotor, the GMT hand can be set independently via the crown turning clockwise in one-hour increments. Turning the crown counter-clockwise adjusts the date — yes there is a date in this one, but it is really discreetly placed at 6 o’clock and it is going to do a really big favour to frequent travellers.

As with the Navitimer Automatic 41, this reference is also offered in a choice of alligator leather with folding buckle or the Navitimer seven-row bracelet with a butterfly clasp. For both models, the full-gold versions carry the Origins label, signifying responsibly mined gold in line with the Swiss Better Gold Association’s environmental and social standards.

Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition

The quintessential adventurer’s watch, the Navitimer isn’t just restricted to aviation as watch collectors and Breitling enthusiasts know well. It has gone into space and indeed was the first Swiss wristwatch in space, when Mercury Seven Astronaut Scott Carpenter wore it as he completed America’s second orbital spaceflight during the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, on May 24^th 1962.

Carpenter had requested Breitling to modify the Navitimer for space exploration, resulting in a 24-hour dial to clearly distinguish day from night in orbit. This watch was ultimately named the Cosmonaute and it returns to the spotlight this year as a part of Breitling’s 140^th anniversary celebrations. The Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition is a 250-piece limited edition model exclusively retailing through Breitling’s boutiques both online and in-store, but what will really excite the collectors is the caliber B12 movement, making this reference a self-winding timepiece as opposed to the current manual-wind version powered by caliber B02.

This latest model is crafted in 18K red gold which is set off beautifully by the green dial with elegant black chronograph counters, and red gold tone hour numerals in the Cosmonaute’s classic 24-hour format. Navitimer lovers will also love the AOPA logo which references original Navitimer models made for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association. Caliber B12 can be seen through the open case back, along with an engraving stating One of 240 and the inscription “First Swiss Wristwatch in Space / Navitimer Cosmonaute May 24, 1962.” It provides approximately 70 hours of power and is backed by a five-year warranty. Wear it on a dashing black alligator leather strap with 18K red gold folding buckle.

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 in stainless steel

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 in two-tone steel and gold

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 in 18K red gold

Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 in stainless steel

Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 in 18K red gold

Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition