Bell & Ross
Introducing the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden
The Low-down
The beauty of a skeletonized movement is, typically, the ability to view the operation of a watch’s mechanism in an unobstructed manner while simultaneously basking in the sheer complexity of the machine itself. This effect is especially evocative when it is applied to complex timepieces with a multitude of complications. Entire cityscapes are formed by excised baseplates and bridges. The challenge comes, however, when one aims to skeletonize an otherwise ‘simple’ movement – simple, of course, being a highly relative term. While no doubt still captivating, a three-handed, time-only movement is never-the-less a more elementary system than that of a calendar or chronograph. However, Bell & Ross has done something rather clever to elevate their presentation in this case.
The orbicular dial, framed with a concave, golden brushed rehaut, is positioned in diametric opposition to the almost brutalist square bezel, beset by four symmetrically angled screws, itself standing upon a slightly more contoured square midcase. A heavily tapered, blocky steel bracelet of complementary satin and polished finishing cascades uninterrupted to a folding steel clasp.
IMHO
At what point does design stop being comparative and begin to stand on its own? Though it is frequently our immediate reflex to understand something by way of comparison, it is often to the disservice of the thing itself. Moreover, this impulse also limits our own understanding and, in turn, appreciation of that which we are trying to analyze. This is human nature. We all too often choose to relegate a watch to an analysis by way of reference, only seeing it through the lens of those pieces which came before it. We can isolate the watch, put it in a glass of analytical formaldehyde and attempt to understand it in isolation and without perspective – or, in a more nuanced approach, attempt to see it within the context of the wider market and as a response to an aesthetic idea but articulated in the dialect of its own brand.
The amber dial of the BR 05 Skeleton Golden creates further dimension to an already intricate mosaic of metal that is a skeletonized movement. Its addition to Bell & Ross’ offerings not only adds another flavor to its current catalog, but also brings a fresh option to a variegated corner of the watch market. In a design category where public opinion is all too often limited to the bromide of comparison, the BR 05 Skeleton Golden is a bright and refreshing addition to the fray.
Tech Specs
Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden
Movement: BR-Cal 322, automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: Stainless steel, 40 by 10.33mm thick, satin and polished finishes, water-resistant to 100M
Strap: Brown rubber or polished steel bracelet
Price and availability: Limited to 500 pieces, USD 6600 on rubber, USD 7100 on bracelet