Audemars Piguet
Available in the Shop: Arguably the Best Looking Royal Oak Offshore Ever
The Roots: The 1972 Royal Oak
It is impossible to discuss the modern day icon that is the Royal Oak Offshore without first detailing the genesis of the original 1972 Royal Oak, famously created by designer Gerald Genta. There are two stories about how he came up with the idea of the unique eight-sided bezel and tripartite construction of this timepiece. The first was that he was inspired by the octagonal portholes of the HMS Royal Oak, the British Navy’s first armored vessel, and decided to base the bezel on this design. This was later corrected in Revolution magazine’s interview with AP CEO Francois Bennahmias who explained, “Mr Genta’s widow told me that Gerald was inspired by a diver he saw by the side of lake Geneva, specifically the way his diving helmet was screwed to his suit.”
Regardless of which story you connect with the Royal Oak’s eight-sided bezel and exposed screw design, it has become one of the most recognizable in modern luxury. Says Bennahmias, “The thing about the Royal Oak is it is unmistakable from across the room.” But underlying the aesthetics was a function — the construction of the Royal Oak case was such that both the screws and the bezel are integral elements to the case structure. The entire watch was sealed from the back using flat nuts that were attached to the screws that run through the case — like load-bearing pillars in a house.
The First Bad Ass Luxury Watch: The 1993 Royal Oak Offshore
The idea of a massive oversized 42-mm in diameter Royal Oak-based watch was sparked in the mind of designer Emmanuel Gueit sometime in the mid-1980s. Working at Audemars Piguet’s design studio, he launched himself into this project with unbridled obsessive enthusiasm. What he created would be a first in luxury watches. At this time, Panerai’s 42-mm in diameter Luminor Marina had not yet been introduced to the market. Thus Gueit’s creation was the first truly oversized luxury timepiece. Even crazier were its exposed rubber gaskets and rubber-covered chronograph pushers, normally considered incompatible with a refined watch.
For its movement, Audemars Piguet selected two products from brands they had long associations with — Jaeger-LeCoultre (at the time Audemars Piguet still owned a large part of the Le Sentier manufacture) and the famous Vallée de Joux module maker, Dubois-Depraz. A nicely reworked Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic caliber and a Dubois Depraz module formed the chronograph movement for the Offshore. The signature magnifying loupe used to enlarge the recessed date of the Offshore results from the movement’s modular construction. Says Gueit, “The dial was really far from the date wheel. So I decided to use the loupe to magnify the date. It’s funny because this has become one of the visual signatures of the watch.”
Larger than Life: The Offshores Rise in Popularity
What was the reason for the Offshore’s success? Much of it came down to how totally original it was. Its hugeness was unique and totally audacious. At the time it would have been the rejection of all propriety for a member of the horological Holy Trinity to walk down this dark path. But at the same time there is a prevailing quality from finish to the touch of every surface on the watch that reinforced its authenticity as a true luxury product. It was part luxury watch and part superhero. And it soon became the preferred timepiece of two of pop culture’s most iconic figures. The first was Austrian body-builder-turned action star Arnold Schwarzenegger. And as you know, the single greatest rapper of all time, Jay-Z. And while Schwarzenegger wore special editions of the Offshore in films like End of Days and Terminator 3, Jay-Z turned the likes of Kanye West and Pharrell onto his favorite timepiece and soon the entire rap world was flossing with AP ROO’s on their arms. At the same time, the Offshore appeared on the wrist of Ari Gold and Vinnie Chase on HBO’s Entourage. And collectively this pop culture triple tap ignited an explosion in popularity for the watch.
The Royal Oak Offshore and Material Innovation
Over the past 28 years the Offshore has also been a platform for Audemars Piguet’s passion for material innovation. Pioneering the technology for carbon fiber cases, the first luxury timepiece featuring a forged carbon fiber case was the legendary Alinghi Team Offshore made for the Swiss America’s Cup team. AP then followed the success of this ultra light model with what we at Revolution consider the most undervalued and coolest Offshores of all time, the Bumblebee. This extraordinary watch featured a carbon case combined with a totally scratch proof ceramic bezel and bold yellow and black styling that endowed it with its nickname.
Launched before the prevailing fashion for oversized watches, Bennahmias admits that AP didn’t expect to sell more than a few hundred Offshores before he ended production. Nearly three decades later, the Royal Oak Offshore is the most sought-after luxury sports watch on the market. Says Bennahmias “We are usually out of stock in most of the classic models. If you want an Offshore, you put your deposit down, and then you wait and wait. Until they say your watch has arrived. Our volume is small because this is what we can produce to the level of quality we require.”
Amusingly for the 25th anniversary of the Offshore in 2018, AP launched a limited edition of the watch that was identical to the very original watch that Gueit designed 25 years ago and set into motion the greatest revolution in luxury sports watch the world had ever seen. Apt demonstration that the Offshore in every version is here to stay.
There are many collectible versions of the Royal Oak Offshore but the one we have just added to our shop is arguably the best looking amongst them all. It is not over the top in its design and is equipped with the calibre 3126/3840 automatic movement that promises 60 hours of power reserve. The 44 mm watch in 18k pink gold comes with a ceramic bezel with brushed tops and polished sides. Apart from the bezel, the thin rectangular chronograph pushers as well as the crown are made of ceramic with hints of metal elements that make the watch look pretty sleek. The hand decorated movement with the 22k gold rotor and a dark galvanic treatment can be appreciated from the sapphire crystal caseback. The watch has a 24-month warranty and is offered with a complete set of box and papers.