For the 100th anniversary of the Oyster, the core line-up, now known as the Oyster Perpetual, sees a series of updates. These range from full gold versions with stone-set markers, to steel models featuring gold bezels bearing the centenary marking on the dial, and finally to a more playful take with a multi-coloured dial, which is what we are looking at here.

The latest Oyster Perpetual is the simplest and most accessible of the anniversary releases, in all steel and starting below USD 7,000. Yet it is also the most eye-catching, with a Jubilee motif dial made up of more than ten colours.

The new Oyster Perpetual 36 in steel with a Jubilee dial. (Image: Revolution ©)

Funky Jubilee

The Jubilee motif dial may feel familiar to those who have spent time with classic models such as the Datejust. Though discontinued in recent years, the Jubilee motif has long existed in the collection, typically executed in a single colour. That treatment helps belie the pattern, which is made up of small blocks forming the letters of the brand’s name.

In fact, the Jubilee dial is not a modern idea. According to Rolex, it dates back to the 1970s. Yet most examples seen online trace to the 1980s, suggesting that earlier versions are genuinely scarce. It is an interesting kind of rarity, especially when compared with other watches from the same era, such as manual-winding Daytonas, which are much easier to find information about online despite their status.

Colourful and cheerful. (Image: Revolution ©)

Now, for the first time in decades, the Jubilee dial returns in a markedly different form to mark the centenary. It comes alive in a full spread of colours, far more expressive than anything seen before on the Oyster Perpetual.

In that context, the recently discontinued Celebration dial begins to feel like a prelude. This one takes the idea much further, with a full pattern and a far richer palette across the dial. Each box contains two colours, one for the letter and another for the background, creating what Rolex describes as a “contrasting interplay of no fewer than ten colours”. A quick count confirms it.

By now, the market is used to Rolex doing the occasional unexpected thing with its dials. What we are seeing here would have been hard to imagine just a few years ago from a brand known for its conservative approach. But it arguably works. This is the kind of piece that will be remembered as capturing the spirit of its time, not just telling it.

Have you counted how many colours there are? (Image: Revolution ©)

As is typical for Rolex, the brand ensures the colourful dial is executed with crisp precision. Rather than applying everything at once, the dial is built up in multiple stages, each adding a single colour. This approach allows Rolex to maintain strict accuracy, ensuring that every shape and letter in the motif is perfectly positioned.

Even though the watch is introduced as a 36 mm, Rolex’s website shows that the Jubilee dial is also available in other sizes, namely 41 mm and 31 mm. That said, it is not offered across the entire range, with the 28 mm and 34 mm versions notably left out.

Ten steps for ten colours. (Image: Rolex)

A fully equipped Rolex

Even though the Oyster Perpetual is Rolex’s most entry-level line-up, it is no less technically complete than the more expensive models.

Inside the watch is the cal. 3230, a movement launched in 2020. It carries the brand’s Chronergy escapement, the signature blue Parachrom hairspring with strong resistance to magnetism, and Paraflex shock absorbers.

Starting this year, the movement is also rated to a higher standard. Rolex has updated its Superlative Chronometer specification to include stricter controls around resistance to magnetism, reliability, and sustainability. Timekeeping performance, however, remains unchanged at a maximum deviation of ±2 seconds per day after casing, a very strict standard for a brand producing over a million watches annually.

The latest-generation cal. 3230. (Image: Rolex)

Not only is the movement on par with the most expensive watches in the catalogue, so too are other elements such as the clasp. The latest Oyster Perpetual is fitted with the Oysterclasp and includes the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing the bracelet to be adjusted by approximately 5 mm for instant comfort. Together with Chromalight, these are upgrades that were absent from the previous-generation Oyster Perpetual, the discontinued ref. 116000, which ended production in 2020.

Still, as the entry-level line-up, the Oyster Perpetual keeps its finishing restrained. The only polished elements are the bezel, case flanks, crown, and a ring on the caseback, unlike the Datejust, which also carries polished centre links and lugs.

Beautiful, fluid case flanks in full polished form. (Image: Revolution ©)

Concluding thoughts

The Oyster Perpetual has always been a fuss-free line-up, with simple dials and restrained finishing that best reflect the brand’s core values: traditional Swiss watchmaking rooted in utility, much like classic pocket watches. Only occasionally has there been a playful or colourful twist on the dial, and even those, such as the discontinued concentric dial with Arabic numerals, are considered pared back compared to what we are seeing today.

But now, the Oyster Perpetual feels different. It has become a space for the brand to introduce more expressive ideas, from the Celebration dial to this new colourful Jubilee dial. It is somewhat unexpected, but also secretly satisfying to see. Those who manage to get one will likely enjoy it now, and perhaps even more so when looking back in the future (if they don’t decide to sell it).

A memorable watch. (Image: Revolution ©)

Tech Specs: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Jubilee”
Reference: 126000
Movement: Cal. 3230, automatic, ~70-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 36 mm x 11.6 mm, Oystersteel, water resistant to 100 m
Dial: Multicoloured lacquered “Jubilee” motif
Bracelet: Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel with Oysterclasp and Easylink extension (approx. 5 mm)
Price: USD 6,750