Nomos Glashütte is an award- winning independent watchmaker located in Glashütte in the foothills of Saxony, right in the heart of German watchmaking. The company was founded by photographer and computer enthusiast Roland Schwertner in 1990 after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Its first collection released in 1991 included four watches designed by Suzanne Günther, featuring Bauhaus design cues and a smaller size profile that defied the more popular trend of large, chunky watches at the time. This allowed the designs to appeal to both men and women — something that few watchmakers were able to achieve.

The collection included three round 35mm case watches: Tangente with its retro vintage 1930s classic look, the simple and elegant Orion dress watch, and the smart, sleek and more traditional Ludwig. The final watch in the collection, Tetra, was an anomaly for the collection with a less conventional 29.5mm square case.

Bauhaus Square

The square holds an important place in Bauhaus design. Bauhaus theorists saw simple geometric forms as the essence of natural, organic shapes and leaned towards the use of primary colors. Nomos has always embraced the square shape as well as the role of thoughtfully placed color when designing the Tetra models.

Throughout the years that followed the very first release of Tetra, the watch has seen a wide range of interesting, and even controversial, colorways. This year’s Tetra neomatik models are a limited series of colorful designs to celebrate the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte.

The glossy, opaque dial features a new technique that gives a similar effect to lacquer, where incoming light is not absorbed but reflected to intensify the depth and clarity of the color. The case is 33mm × 33mm with a super slim height of only 7.3mm and crafted from stainless steel.

The caseback is constructed with stainless steel and features a round sapphire crystal window that gives a view of embellished three-quarter plates, ribbing and tempered blue screws of the DUW 3001 caliber movement inside. The caseback is engraved around the edges with the words “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte Limited Edition Tetra” and is numbered for the 175 pieces for each colorway. The case is considered splash- proof with a 30-meter water resistance.

The miniscule 3.2mm thick DUW 3001 caliber includes the proprietary Nomos swing system, first used in their Metro model and introduced at Baselworld in 2014, for outstanding accuracy. The automatic movement has a power reserve of 43 hours.

A look at the Neomatik Technology

The term “neomatik” translates to “new automatic” and first appeared in the DUW 3001 in 2015. What makes this movement stand out are the slim caliber sizes and the increased levels of efficiency. Usually, a movement loses around 20 percent efficiency due to friction, but this innovative design achieved an incredible 94.2 percent efficiency rating. The neomatik line features several watch models including Tangente neomatik 41 Update, Orion neomatik 41 Date, Ludwig neomatik 41 Date and Autobahn. As of today, there are 74 neomatik references in the catalog across several collections, including seven Tetra models.

Made to express Individualism

The new Nomos Tetra neomatik model is available in four dial colors with a central hours and minutes, and a small seconds subdial. The creamy off-white dial of the reference 421.S1 has jaunty blue numerals and indexes, and a hint of red with the seconds hand. Reference 421. S2 has a rich, bold red dial with cream-colored numerals and indexes and rhodium-plated hands. The deep, glossy blue of the reference 421.S3 pairs beautifully with the cream of the numerals and indexes. Finally, the reference 421.S4 has a striking black dial with beige numerals and indexes, and contrasting red seconds hand. Each of the four models offers an edgy alternative to the traditional round wristwatch with a style that can transition well from the office to the nightclub.

Each of the four models is paired with a handmade strap in Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan brown and hand-polished 316L stainless steel winged clasp for a minimal but gorgeous finishing touch. The watches are presented in a black protective case of fine leather, and each model is limited to 175 numbered pieces.

The Nomos Tetra neomatik collection embodies the beauty of minimalist style in an edgy petite square case that is masterfully crafted and beautifully finished. This is truly a watch that will stand out in any setting with the gorgeous array of colorful dials and thoughtful details. Manufactured in Glashütte with an in-house movement, these are attractive and affordable, a must-have for anyone who appreciates Bauhaus-inspired timepieces.

NOMOS said it best when they stated that the watch is for “individualists and aesthetes, nonconformists, connoisseurs and masterminds, opinion-makers and people-makers, scholars, party-goers and night owls… in short: people who know their own mind.”

Tech Specs

Nomos Tetra Neomatik — 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte Ref. 421.S1/2/3/4

Movement: Self-winding caliber DUW 3001; 43-hour power reserve
Function: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case: 33mm x 33mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Off-white, red, blue or black; Arabic numerals and indexes in a contrasting color
Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan brown; stainless steel deployant clasp
Price: USD 3,860
Availability: Limited and numbered edition of 175 pieces in each color