Top of Their Game

Singer, songwriter and guitarist John Mayer has been seen wearing his IWC Big Pilot reference 5002 on tour since he chose it as one of his earliest luxuries watch purchases in 2002. He now has amassed quite a watch collection, and has said often that this incredible watch began his love affair with horology. When he won his first Grammy in 2003, he celebrated by buying another IWC.

The Big Pilot ref. 5002 that has John Mayer enamoured
The Big Pilot ref. 5002 that has John Mayer enamoured
John Mayer wearing the Big Pilot
John Mayer wearing the Big Pilot

His love for the Big Pilot was so deep, that tour managers began to call him “Big Pilot”. These days, his collection includes all his favourites from the modern lines, but he also has a very special centrepiece: one of the original B-Uhren style Big Pilot’s Watches from the 1940s. He was able to secure one of the remaining pieces from the original run of 2,000. In an interview with the New York Times in 2015, he said, “It’s a watch I identify with, that people identify with me. Now, all it does is tell the time and the date, that’s it. But, man, how it does it.”

And that’s the story of a great watch, after all. It may only tell the time, but the weight of a well-made timepiece on the wrist brings a sense of satisfaction like very little else in the world. A finish crafted to perfection by skilled hands and the beauty of a design that ignites the senses create a feeling that sparks a passion.

Lewis Hamilton, seven-time FIA Formula 1 World Drivers’ Champion, is also a great fan of IWC watches. He seems to have a particular fondness for the Big Pilot models. He was named as an ambassador for the brand in 2013 and has collaborated on two models with the brand.

Lewis Hamilton wearing the Big Pilot
Lewis Hamilton wearing the Big Pilot

IWC has much in common with Mayer and Hamilton as icons who have fought long odds for their admired status. Risk taking, incredible resilience, loyalty and dedication to perfection are the key traits that have brought IWC, and especially the highly respected and iconic Big Pilot’s Watch, to the top of their game.

The Beginnings

Florentine Ariosto Jones was an American engineer from Boston, Massachusetts. Little is known about his early life beyond the details of his birth in 1841 in New Hampshire and his service in the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the American Civil War. On his enlistment records, the young man listed his occupation as “watchmaker” and, indeed, he began working with one of America’s most prestigious watch companies, E. Howard & Co, immediately after the war ended.

IWC founder, Florentine Ariosto Jones
IWC founder, Florentine Ariosto Jones

By 1867, Jones had risen to superintendent of the factory. He decided to take what he’d learnt about what he called the “American System” of watchmaking to Europe to begin his own watchmaking company. He recognised the immense value the American system of manufacturing could bring to the incredible skill of the traditional Swiss watchmakers.

After extensive travel with fellow watchmaker Charles Kidder, Jones decided that the unique topography of Schaffhausen provided the water he’d need to power the manufacturing machinery he’d designed for his hybrid watchmaking process. In 1868, he created the firm, named simply F.A. Jones & Co, that would become the International Watch Company.

IWC was founded in Schaffhausen by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones
IWC was founded in Schaffhausen by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones

This combination of precision machinery to create reliable, repeatable parts and skilled hand-work for exceptional quality in assembling, finishing and regulating, created timepieces that were elegant, polished and exemplary. Jones’ spirit of innovation and integrity laid the foundation for every watch produced by IWC over the next century and a half.

The First Pilot’s Watches

In 1936, IWC made their first Pilot’s Watch under the direction of two sons of then-owner, Ernst Jakob Homberger. They were both experienced pilots and understood the requirements and conditions faced by aviators. Named the “Spezialuhr für Flieger” or “Special Pilot’s Watch”, this watch would be the genesis of a line that would cement the company’s reputation for reliability in a field where precise measurement of time and distance was of paramount importance. In the early days of aviation, pilots depended on their timepiece to be exact and rugged and often staked their very lives on the accuracy of their watch.

The one that started it all — IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch, first launched in 1936
The one that started it all — IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch, first launched in 1936

The watch included an anti-magnetic escapement and was engineered for accurate timekeeping at temperatures from -40 degrees Celsius to +40 degrees Celsius to withstand the conditions of unheated cockpits. It featured a shatterproof front glass, a stainless steel 39mm case with a rotating bezel for recording short periods of time, and high-contrast luminescent hands and numerals. The timeless look of the black dial with minimal white numerals, stainless steel case and brown leather strap can still be seen in current iterations of IWC Pilot’s Watches.

The importance of the watch to the pilot led to stricter and more rigorous regulations and requirements from military clients. In 1940, IWC created the first Big Pilot’s Watch Calibre 52 T.S.C. in response to these tighter specifications. At 55mm in diameter, 16.5mm-thick and weighing in at 183 grammes, the watch remains the largest wristwatch that IWC has created. The oversized crown, which allowed for ease of use even in the quilted flight gloves worn by pilots, continues to influence the design and functionality of more modern models.

Pilot’s Watch Mark 11 Ref. 6B/346

In 1948, IWC was asked, along with a handful of other watchmakers, to develop a new watch to a set of specifications created by the British Royal Air Force (RAF). Rising to the challenge, IWC created their most famous Pilot’s Watch, the Navigator’s Wristwatch Mark 11. It introduced the innovative concept of an inner cage of soft iron inner cage designed to dissipate the radiation produced by the radar equipment in use at the time. It featured a radium dial referred to by collectors as the “White 12” dial.

The success of the Mark 11 prompted IWC to retroactively rename their first and second iterations to Mark 9 and Mark 10, respectively.

Arguably the most famous IWC Pilot’s Watch, the Navigator’s Wristwatch Mark 11
Arguably the most famous IWC Pilot’s Watch, the Navigator’s Wristwatch Mark 11

Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph Ref. 3711

In 1992, IWC revisited the Pilot’s Watch after a resurgence in interest by collectors in the colourful history of the Mark 11. Building on the Valjoux calibre 7750 — renamed IWC calibre 79030 — the design team led by Richard Habring, under the guidance of Günter Blümlein, developed a double chronograph that could be machine built. This resulted in the first mass-produced split seconds chronograph that proved to be robust, precise and reliable. The reference 3711 reaffirmed IWC’s mastery of Jones’ early inspiration of bringing the science of manufacturing to the art of complex watchmaking.

Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph ref. 3711
Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph ref. 3711

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic Ref. 3705

Two years later, in 1994, IWC innovated again by being the first to use ceramic — a black zirconium oxide ceramic, to be precise — for the case material in a Pilot’s Watch. They drew upon lessons learnt from their famous Da Vinci ref. 3755 design of 1986. The novelty of the ceramic case and the fact that only 999 models were produced make the ref. 3705 a highly sought-after collector’s item to this day.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic ref. 3705
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic ref. 3705

Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW5002

IWC took a huge risk in 2002 when they decided to relaunch the concept of a large wristwatch inspired by the B-Uhren style “observation” watches of the 1940s. The watch was massive by modern standards at 46mm and with a 57mm lug-to-lug span in a time when 40mm to 44mm sports watches ruled the marketplace. Understanding the risk, IWC invested an impressive effort and upfront cost to ensure that the world’s largest automatic calibre would be recognised as a unique timepiece and that it would find its niche in the market.

IWC took their leap of faith and introduced a watch with their patented Pellaton winding system, an impressive seven-day power reserve, and a timeless luxury style that quickly won the hearts of the collectors. The Big Pilot ref. 5002 was not only an instant success in 2002, it was also a trailblazer for a trend in larger and bolder statement wristwatches that would continue for nearly two decades across leading watch manufacturers. The first in a growing catalogue of Big Pilot’s Watches to follow, the reference 5002 opened the door to an exciting new chapter for IWC.

The Big Pilot is today a highly recognisable cultural icon of a timepiece not only because of the bold, unexpected new direction it represented, but also because of the underlying history that gave the piece an inimitable authenticity.

Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002
Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW5026

The success of the Big Pilot’s Watch led to a few updates and releases in the following years. In 2006, IWC introduced a Big Pilot with a perpetual calendar complication, taking advantage of the dial’s large real estate, in a small release for only two retail partners.

The first edition was a limited run of 25 un-numbered platinum timepieces referred to as the “Sincere” model that were made for the opening of the Sincere Haute Horlogerie Boutique in Singapore. In 2007, there was another limited-edition release of 50 pieces in titanium, the “Cellini”, for New York’s Cellini Jewellers. The Cellini remains the only Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar model ever created in titanium. The IW5026 would grow to include an impressive 22 different perpetual calendar special editions in the years to follow.

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ref. 5026
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ref. 5026

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ref. IW502902

In 2007, IWC became the first and only watch brand to hold the license for the Top Gun name. IWC has a long and prestigious martial legacy, and they brought their “A” game to the task of creating tough, robust, and accurate timepieces for the release. They chose to use ceramic for the watch case, a material that IWC had ushered into the world of luxury watchmaking, and made a Pilot’s Watch with a chronograph.

In 2012, the success of the TOP GUN Pilot’s Chronograph prompted IWC to dedicate an entire, stand-alone line to the collaboration which included a Big Pilot version of the perpetual calendar. The 48mm case was black zirconium oxide ceramic with a titanium crown, and it featured the TOP GUN logo on the solid caseback.

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN ref. 502902 released in 2012
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN ref. 502902 released in 2012

Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Ref. IW501901

As part of the 2012 Big Pilot’s Watch “TOP GUN” releases, IWC included another ceramic case with a striking black and white contrast aesthetic. This version was a more minimalistic design than the perpetual calendar with central three-hand timekeeping, a discreet date window and a power reserve indicator. The charming red aircraft motif on the seconds hand brought a pop of character and colour to a sharp, clean dial.

Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN ref. 501901, released in 2012
Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN ref. 501901, released in 2012

Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” Ref. IW502701

Created in honour of world-famous aviator and author of The Little Prince, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the 2016 limited edition release of the Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” had a handsome rose gold case and a rich blue sunburst dial.

The watch had the hallmarks of IWC’s fairly conservative style until it was turned over. Under the rear sapphire, the oscillating weight, in a warm 18ct 5N gold, featured a whimsical engraving of the Little Prince as he stands upon his little planet and gazes at the sky.

Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” ref. 502701 released in 2016
Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” ref. 502701 released in 2016

Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition “Mojave Desert” Ref. IW506003

This 2021 addition to the “Mojave Desert” special editions introduces a sand-coloured ceramic case and a subdued dark brown dial. The layout of the dial and the functions (central seconds, date and power reserve indicator) are a throwback to the classic 2016 Big Pilot’s Watch ref. IW501001. The colour scheme of brown and tan is a marked difference from the usual black ceramic in IWC watches and gives the watch a classic brown camouflage vibe.

The Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert” ref. 506003 (right) along with its Perpetual Calendar iteration
The Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert” ref. 506003 (right) along with its Perpetual Calendar iteration

Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Ref. IW329301

In 2021, IWC released the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 as a more comfortably sized version of the hefty earlier models. At 43mm, it still brings a sense of presence and trades on the nostalgia and respect commanded by the Big Pilot’s Watches of the past. Christian Knoop, the creative director of IWC, said of the model: “With the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, we have returned to the extreme purity of the original B-Uhr designed over 80 years ago and created a simple three-hand watch with no other elements on the dial. Despite its smaller size, the 43mm case combines a bold look with great wearing comfort.”

The Big Pilot 43, in a more contemporary case size of 43mm, is the latest in a long line of stunning pilot’s watches from IWC
The Big Pilot 43, in a more contemporary case size of 43mm, is the latest in a long line of stunning pilot’s watches from IWC
A close-up look at the movement powering the Big Pilot 43
A close-up look at the movement powering the Big Pilot 43

The Making of a Big Pilot 43

Each Big Pilot 43 begins in the steel mill where recycled scrap metal is smelted in an electric arc furnace to make the stainless steel that will be crafted into a case and crown. The electricity needed for the process comes from renewable sources, and the resulting high-alloy stainless steel is extremely corrosion resistant and pure for a bio- compatible alloy that is friendly on the skin.

The dozen case components are crafted with state-of- the-art, computer-controlled lathe and milling machines, and measured to ensure quality at every stage of the process. The case is then hand-polished and finished in a process that involves more than 30 steps. The iconic oversized, conical crown is machined to its precise dimensions and then painstakingly hand-finished.

The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months
The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months

The calibre 82100 movement is produced by IWC and most components are made of brass. The automatic movement features a Pellaton winding system with a centrally mounted rotor that converts the wearer’s movements into the mainspring tension in either direction for a maximum of 60 hours of power reserve. The movement is assembled on a dedicated line with several stages. At each task, a highly trained and experienced specialist is assigned for assembly and a quality assurance check is performed immediately after each step. Experienced timers perform adjustments at the last stage to ensure the movement’s accuracy.

The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months

At final assembly, the dial and hands are placed and the movement is secured in the case. The glass is screwed onto the case after ensuring it is spotless and dust-free. After assembly, there is a qualification process of around 100 rigorous tests over several months.

The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months
The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months
The making of each IWC Big Pilot 43 is a meticulous, carefully monitored process that culminates in the finishing of details by hand and a qualification process of rigorous tests conducted over several months

IWC has long been respected for the integrity of their watchmaking and their attention to detail. From the talented minds that plan and implement each new design, through the innovation of their manufacturing processes, to the excellence of those that work to finish each fine detail by hand, this company takes pride and expresses passion in every aspect of their horology.

It’s clear that the men and women in the design studios and in the manufactory know their integral worth to the finished product and they take their role seriously. This is a company of people first. They make watches because they love the challenge of creating something both technically difficult and culturally significant, and this sense of purpose is evident in every timepiece.

New models of the IWC Pilot’s Watches are equipped with the EasX-CHANGE system, which allows the watch owner to quickly and easily change the strap or bracelet — all it requires is gentle pressure on the button with the IWC logo, and a light tug and push of the strap or bracelet
New models of the IWC Pilot’s Watches are equipped with the EasX-CHANGE system, which allows the watch owner to quickly and easily change the strap or bracelet — all it requires is gentle pressure on the button with the IWC logo, and a light tug and push of the strap or bracelet

Timeline 1936 – 2021

1936
Special Watch for Pilots Ref. 436
• First wristwatch developed by IWC specifically for use in an aircraft
• Technical features included an anti-magnetic movement and a shatterproof front glass; it also worked perfectly in any temperature between –40˚C and +40˚C

Special Watch for Pilots Ref. 436

1940
Big Pilot’s Watch Calibre 52 T.S.C. Ref. IW431
• Biggest watch IWC ever built with a case of 55mm × 16.5mm and a weight of 183g

Big Pilot’s Watch Calibre 52 T.S.C. Ref. IW431

1948
Mark 11 (RAF Issued)
• Created in response to the invitation from the British Royal Air Force (RAF) to make a Pilot’s Watch to withstand the radar’s electromagnetic fields

Mark 11 (RAF Issued)

1992
Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph Ref. IW3711
• Cemented IWC’s reputation for robust, precise chronographs with rattrapante complication

Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph Ref. IW3711

1994
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic Ref. IW3705
• First Pilot’s Watch with a ceramic case

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic Ref. IW3705

2002
Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW5002
• Oversized 46.2mm iconic case and clear cockpit-instrument look

Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW5002

2006
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW5026
• Released in a limited run for two retail partners: Sincere IWC502605 (limited edition 25 pieces) and Cellini IWC502606 (limited edition 50 pieces)

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW5026

2012
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ref. IW502902
• Complications included perpetual calendar, four-digit year display, moonphase display and seven-day power reserve

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ref. IW502902

2012
Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Ref. IW501901
• Striking black and white contrast design with large power reserve, minimal date display and small red aircraft motif on the seconds hand

Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Ref. IW501901

2016
Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” Ref. IW502701
• Created in honour of the world-famous aviator and author of The Little Prince;
the caseback features an engraving of the Little Prince standing on his planet and gazing at the sky

Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” Ref. IW502701

2021
Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Ref. IW329301
• Faithful interpretation of the iconic Big Pilot’s Watch from more than 80 years ago

Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Ref. IW329301

2021
Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert” Ref. IW506003
• This addition to the “Mojave Desert” special editions introduces a sand-coloured ceramic case and a subdued dark brown dial

Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert” Ref. IW506003

The US Military Connection

IWC is currently the only watch brand officially licensed to work on watches for the entire US Navy and Marine Corps. Each member of the 247 active and 100 inactive squadrons have exclusive access to the line of squadron watches and receives an engraving of their name and call sign.
IWC has collaborated with various squadrons from the Top Gun tactical school to the Blue Angels demonstration squad, and including the VFA-102 Diamondbacks, VFA-27 Royal Maces, VFA-211 Fighting Checkmates, VFA-115 Eagles, VFA-22 Fighting Redcocks and the US Marine Corps VMFA-242 Bats and VMFA-323 Death Rattlers.

Top Gun

Top Gun is the common name for the legendary Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor programme in which elite military pilots are trained in advanced flying and tactical skills in order to return to their units as teachers. In 2007, IWC was invited to collaborate with the programme to develop a timepiece capable of withstanding the extreme conditions of supersonic jets, such as the F/A-18E Super Hornet, for extended mission times. The watches are engineered with the most advanced technical materials, including titanium, ceramics and the ceramic/titanium composition material developed by IWC called Ceratanium.

Flying the F/A-18E Super Hornet during the U.S. Navy Blue Angles 2021 Air Show Season (Photo by U.S. Navy Blue Angels)
Flying the F/A-18E Super Hornet during the U.S. Navy Blue Angles 2021 Air Show Season (Photo by U.S. Navy Blue Angels)

The black-on-black style and classic double chronograph design created a sleek, technical looking timepiece with just a touch of red. The complications featured a small hacking seconds and split seconds hand for intermediate timing with the chronograph. A day and date display balanced the double chronograph and small seconds subdials.

In 2012, the TOP GUN collection was elevated to a line of its own with five new models. Today, the TOP GUN collection includes several models featuring complications from chronographs to perpetual calendars in a wide variety of colours and finishes.

Blue Angels

In 2019, IWC announced that they had become an official licensee of the Blue Angels US Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron. The Blue Angels got their start in 1946 when Admiral Chester W. Nimitz envisioned a group of pilots trained to exhibit the incredible prowess of naval pilots. The squadron is comprised of 141 members of the US Navy and the US Marines. They perform aerobatic manoeuvres, both solo and in formation, with six F/A-18 Super Hornet jets. Every year, about 11 million people are treated to a demonstration from the team.

The Blue Angels collaborated with IWC to create a sporty flyback chronograph with a case of matte black zirconium oxide ceramic and a dial featuring the squadron’s livery of blue and yellow. Inspired by military observation watches, the special edition has a display of minutes on the outer ring in white and the hours on the inner ring in yellow. The back of the case features the engraved crest of the Blue Angels.

The engraved crest of the Blue Angels at the caseback.
The engraved crest of the Blue Angels at the caseback.

The calibre 89361 still features that unique soft iron inner cage to protect the mechanicals from magnetic fields and the pressurisation resistant glass to ensure that even the extreme conditions in the supersonic jets will not affect the precision and accuracy of the timepiece.

The Next Generation

In 2021, IWC has an exciting line-up of new models inspired by their collaborations with the pilots in the US Navy squadrons and Top Gun tactical school.

The TOP GUN models will be growing to include two additional TOP GUN models in Ceratanium cases and a black-on-black aesthetic. The Blue Angels will see a new chronograph in navy ceramic with highlights of yellow.

There are also two new US Navy fighter attack squadron collaborations in 44.5mm ceramic cases with Ceratanium pushers and crown. The first is with the VFA-27 “Royal Maces” based in Iwakuni, Japan. The Royal Maces were commissioned Attack Squadron 27 (VFA-27) in September of 1967 and they originally flew the A-7 Corsair II. They transitioned to their F/A-18A Hornet in 1991, earning the VFA-27 designation.

The VFA-14 Tophatters of the California-based Naval Air Station Lemoore are the US Navy’s oldest active squadron. Formed in 1919, they have flown 23 different types of aircraft and operated from 20 different aircraft carriers.

IWC has worked with various squadrons from the Top Gun tactical school to create unique collaboration pieces such as the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters” ref. IW389108 (left) and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces” ref. IW389107
IWC has worked with various squadrons from the Top Gun tactical school to create unique collaboration pieces such as the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters” ref. IW389108 (left) and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces” ref. IW389107
The casebacks of these collaboration pieces proudly bear the mark of the Top Gun squadrons
The casebacks of these collaboration pieces proudly bear the mark of the Top Gun squadrons

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces”

Limited to 500 pieces, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces” has a black ceramic 44.5mm case with Ceratanium pushers and crown. The dial is black with a chronograph complication, a day and date window at three o’clock, and a power indicator driven by the calibre 69380 movement. The black-on-black colourway is broken only by the crisp white numerals and indexes and pops of yellow. It is paired with a black calfskin strap with yellow stitching and a yellow reverse. The Royal Maces logo of a gauntleted fist holding a mace is proudly displayed in the power indicator. The caseback is engraved with an image of the F/A 18E and lists the VFA-27 designation and the Royal Maces squadron call sign.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces”
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces”

Tech Specs: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Royal Maces”

Movement: Self-winding calibre 69380; 46-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and day/date indicator
Case: 44.5mm; ceramic with Ceratanium pushers and crown; water resistant to 600m
Dial: Black; luminescent white Arabic numerals
Strap: Black calfskin; stainless steel sandblasted folding clasp
Price and availability: CHF 11,900; Limited edition of 500 pieces per annum

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters”

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters” is based on the same architecture and styling as the “Royal Maces” but with red colouring rather than yellow and features the black top hat logo of the “Tophatters” in the power indicator subdial. The caseback engraving is of the “Tophatters” top hat logo with the words “Oldest and Boldest” as well as the words “100 years” to mark their anniversary as a squadron. It is limited to 500 pieces per annum.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters”
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters”

Tech Specs: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tophatters”

Movement: Self-winding calibre 69380; 46-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and day/date indicator
Case: 44.5mm; ceramic with Ceratanium pushers and crown; water resistant to 600m
Dial: Black; luminescent white Arabic numerals STRAP Black calfskin; stainless steel folding clasp
Price and availability: CHF 11,900; Limited edition of 500 pieces per annum

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” shakes up the previous colourway a bit by introducing a striking blue ceramic in place of the black from the previous models. The dial is a matching blue with white numerals and indexes. Pops of yellow appear on the seconds hand and in the power indicator with the Blue Angels shield logo. The caseback features an engraving of four F/A-18E/F Super Hornet fighter jets flying in formation over the Blue Angels logo. The watch is paired with a matching blue rubber strap with textile inlay for a harmonious colourway and limited to 500 pieces per annum.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”

Tech Specs: Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”

Movement: Self-winding calibre 69380; 46-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and day/date indicator
Case: 44.5mm; ceramic with Ceratanium pushers and crown; water resistant to 600m
Dial: Blue; luminescent white Arabic numerals STRAP Blue rubber with textile inlay; stainless steel folding clasp
Price and availability: CHF 11,900; Limited edition of 500 pieces per annum

Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium

Limited to 500 pieces per annum, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium adds a new look for the IWC-patented timezoner function line with a quiet black-on-black colourway and a bezel in the patented Ceratanium material with the names of major world cities circling the dial. The soft grey numerals and minutes track add to the sombre, understated sense of sporty style. Featuring the IWC calibre 82760, the watch’s bezel is coupled to the mechanicals so it can adjust the world time with a simple “press, turn to the desired city and release” manoeuvre. Changing time zones, even across the date line, doesn’t stop the movement so it never loses a second of time during the adjustment. There is a date display as well as the 24-hour display for the world time function.

Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium
Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium

Tech Specs: IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium

Movement: Self-winding calibre 82760; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, world time and date CASE 46mm; Ceratanium; water resistant to 60m
Dial: Black; luminescent black Arabic numerals
Strap: Black rubber with textile inlay; Ceratanium pin buckle
Price and availability: CHF 18,000; Limited edition of 500 pieces per annum

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium is a substantial 46.2mm in the patented Ceratanium material and has a stealthy black-on-black aesthetic with strategic spots of red, like blips on a radar screen. Even the numerals and indexes are carefully subdued to a soft grey to continue the low-profile colourway. There is a nice balance to the complex set of four subdials including a perpetual calendar with day, date, month and year display, the moonphase display (the mechanicals engineered to within one day every 577.5 years), small seconds and the power reserve. The matching black bracelet is the first ever to be made with links of Ceratanium. This watch is limited to 150 pieces per annum.

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium

Tech Specs: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium

Movement: Self-winding calibre 52615; 168-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and perpetual calendar with moonphase
Case: 46.2mm; Ceratanium; water resistant to 60m
Dial: Black; luminescent black Arabic numerals
Strap: Ceratanium bracelet
Price and availability: CHF 48,000; Limited edition of 150 pieces per annum

The Pilot's Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium marks a stealthy, stylish new black-on-black look for IWC’s patented timezoner function line
The Pilot's Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium marks a stealthy, stylish new black-on-black look for IWC’s patented timezoner function line

IWC Museum Director, David Seyffer

David Seyffer, curator for the IWC Museum, shares the history and inspirations behind the modern IWC Pilot’s Watch.

David Seyffer joined IWC in 2007 and he has not looked back since. His first job with the company was to organise the corporate archives into a professional business archive. After three years, he was promoted to museum curator. But, as he admits, “My heart is with the archiving, the historical records and the certificates of authentication that have become so important in today’s market.” In an interview with Revolution USA editor-in- chief Bhanu Chopra, he offers an insider’s view of the IWC Pilot’s Watch.

David Seyffer, curator of the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen
David Seyffer, curator of the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen

Is military issued Mark 11 considered the inspiration for the civilian Pilot’s Watches?

Yes, we can discuss Mark 11, but we should really go back a little to 1936 with the Special Watch for Pilots. The owner at the time, Homberger, had a son who had become a pilot during his studies in London. He returned to Schaffhausen to work and continued to fly in Switzerland. That year, sporty watches began showing up in the IWC catalogues.

We conclude this to mean that this son, who liked flying around, had maybe asked his father to make a pilot’s watch. Sports watches were not typical for IWC before 1936.

Then in the 1940s, the B-Uhr watch was produced for navigators in the German Air Force. And, of course, the Mark 11 — which is one of the most interesting milestones in our history — was made for the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and made its career and reputation with other Commonwealth air forces and the British Overseas Airways Corporation. I like the watch personally because it’s beautiful from the design, it’s highly reliable and it’s for me kind of an icon of a pilot’s watch.

IWC B-Uhr with Type A dial (1940)
IWC B-Uhr with Type A dial (1940)

So, what were the features of the original Special Watch for Pilots?

It was marketed as a Special Watch for Pilots. It’s funny to see the marketing text in those days stating it’s shielded against temperature differences from –40 up to +40 degrees Celsius and — very interesting in those days — the protection against the magnetic fields.

It wasn’t yet protected by the soft iron cage — that was really the idea of the British RAF asking IWC to make this happen with the Mark 11. Anti-magnetic watches became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s, and so I think, to meet this expectation for a sporty watch, they said they’ll also add the anti-magnetic movement inside this watch for the private pilot. In the catalogue, it mentions the ability to calculate fuel consumption — it was really addressed to the pilot. After the start of the Second World War, Switzerland was isolated and not many watches were able to be sold to Europe. This is when IWC began to work with Portugal.

From the Mark 11, how did the modern Pilot’s Watches era begin?

There were no IWC Pilot’s Watches available for our customers. There is evidence in the archive that the British government wanted to purchase more watches, and we created them but the sales never came through. Some were sold to civilians, but were never officially published.

In the 1980s, these watches started to become collector’s items. IWC decided to create a new sporty watch after the success of the collaboration with Porsche Design, and we had this interesting Pilot’s Watch story. So — and this is a fact that only a few people know — the first Pilot’s Watch of the new generation, and for the civilian market, was the reference 3740, a small quartz chronograph hybrid with a quartz movement and chronograph mechanical. It was under the radar, never officially published or advertised.

Then, in 1992, the Doppelchronograph based on the automatic chronograph was released as a Pilot’s Watch in the ref. 3711. Two years later came the very famous Mark XII — which was, from a design perspective, a successor to the Mark 11. We also cannot underestimate the Pilot’s Chronograph ref. 3706 in standard steel. Then came the famous 3705 in ceramic, which became kind of an icon. We never expected the success this one would have.

Introduced in 1994, the Mark XII saw the addition of straight hands, an automatic movement and a sapphire crystal, amongst other improvements
Introduced in 1994, the Mark XII saw the addition of straight hands, an automatic movement and a sapphire crystal, amongst other improvements

How did the Big Pilot project come about?

We have found some drawings from the mid-’90s where Hanno Burtscher, who was responsible for the Da Vinci as a designer, was playing around with the iconic 1940s Big Pilot case and the project came to life when we were developing the calibre 5000 — the first IWC in-house movement after the Quartz Crisis. It was a risk to release such a large watch, but the idea was to trust in the DNA of the IWC Pilot’s Watch with the soft iron cage and the Pellaton system and give it a try. It’s really the ultimate IWC Pilot’s Watch. Then, all the watches became bigger and bigger in the following years.

The IWC Big Pilot line sees a new iteration this year in the Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert”. With a case size of 46.5mm, it is the ultimate Pilot's Watch
The IWC Big Pilot line sees a new iteration this year in the Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert”. With a case size of 46.5mm, it is the ultimate Pilot's Watch
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