Greubel Forsey
The Next Big Thing: Greubel Forsey
On top of that, Flageollet’s quest for a more perfect form of watchmaking also yielded a totally unique, exquisitely sculptural aesthetic language that was unlike anything the world had ever seen — a palette crafted from high polished grade 5 titanium, heat-treated blue elements, three-dimensional moonphase indicators and spring-loaded floating lugs. But a year later, even I couldn’t have imagined De Bethune’s utterly transformative success in the space of 12 months. From their collaboration with Swizz Beatz on the devastatingly cool Dream Watch 5 to appearing on Michael Strahan’s wrist when he went to space, De Bethune had suddenly shapeshifted to a searingly hot contemporary brand. So high was the demand that De Bethunes were sold out everywhere, and some retailers like The Hour Glass in Singapore even began making them only available to customers through an application process. Accordingly, the secondary prices of De Bethunes have risen stratospherically and with missile-like velocity. Any DB28 is commanding a significant premium while the brand’s iconic Kind of Blue watches, regardless of complication, are going for double their original price.
So, when it came to announcing my pick for 2022’s Next Big Thing, I wasn’t sure if there was a similarly obvious candidate. That was until I spent two days with a particular brand at their stunning manufacture, built adjoining a transformed farmhouse in La Chaux-de-Fonds. There, I had the opportunity to reacquaint myself with their industry-leading mastery in high finishing and true chronometric achievement. During one of the evenings, thanks to the brand’s new CEO, Antonio Calce, I got to preview the entire collection of watches that will be launched this year — and I was utterly blown away. Because not only are they some of the best watches the brand has ever made, in terms of their exquisite combination of thrilling, heart-stirring design and incredible wrist-borne visual content, backed by a real technical authenticity and what can only be described as finish so extraordinary it belongs in a class of its own, I believe they are the best horological offerings I’ve seen from a single brand in the last decade. In fact, what you will see at Watches and Wonders is but the first of their transcendent salvos for the year. By now, you realize that I am, of course, talking about Greubel Forsey. By the time the smoke clears at the end of 2022, you will realize that Calce has enacted what will be the most important year of all time in Greubel Forsey’s history — that’s just how crazily good the watches are.
Greubel Forsey’s New Direction
Why am I so excited and what exactly has Calce enacted that has me so damn impressed? OK, let me just be honest with you. Since the brand’s creation in 2004, I have never had anything but the greatest respect and reverence for Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. What they have achieved in terms of real watchmaking innovation — in terms of true advancement of chronometric performance, and not the creation of visually entertaining but horological vacuous frivolity like many others — is simply staggering. Eighteen years later, they have already assured their places in the halls of watchmaking’s Valhalla, along with Abraham-Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud, Antide Janvier, John Harrison and George Daniels. That is irrefutable. And each year, when I went to visit them first in Basel, then at Geneva’s SIHH, I was always impressed with their ambitiousness and creativity. But the truth is, for all its incredible legitimacy, I could never see myself wearing a Greubel Forsey.
2021 Balancier Convexe S²
With the Balancier Convexe S², Greubel Forsey has achieved precisely this. Design, technique, horological innovation, stunning finish — it all comes together perfectly in what Calce refers to as the brand’s new flagship model. First, its ovoid case is a combination of an oval and a tonneau but curved to an extreme to be as ergonomic as possible. The bezel actually extends beyond the case slightly to allow for maximal view into the stunning amphitheater within. In the new Greubel Forsey, there is no longer a dial. Instead, the bridges of the movement serve this purpose. Like the 46.5mm case, the movement is crafted from grade 5 titanium, which creates a truly featherweight timepiece. At the same time, grade 5 titanium is notoriously one of the hardest materials to finish beautifully. But Greubel Forsey has, of course, spent the better part of the last 20 years perfecting the art form of hand finishing. The upper part of the diagonally oriented bridge has a hand applied frosted finish, which is one of the most painstaking and challenging processes in all horology. This bridge abruptly ends in a line stretching from nine to five o’clock, where it intersects with a titanium plane angled sharply at 30 degrees. On this, you’ll find the watch’s small seconds indicator and its beating heart, the massive 12.6mm in-house designed and made balance wheel, which is held in place by a stunningly architectural balance cock finished to a level of artistry that induces breathlessness. Visible also just beneath the free sprung balance’s oscillator and Breguet overcoil spiral are a mirror-polished escapement wheel and anchor, also similarly inclined at 30 degrees.
Activating The Past To Define The Future
One of the things that first impressed me during last year’s Geneva Watch Days, when I saw Antonio Calce for the first time since he had taken the reins of Greubel Forsey, was what an astute student of the brand he had become. He explains, “I wanted my vision for the brand’s future to come from a place of real substance, a real appreciation for the values that had been established by Robert and Stephen over these last 18 years, even while understanding the need to push the story forward.”
The second thing I noticed was he was decidedly self-effacing despite the tremendous work he had done. While he was at other brands, I’ve seen him take a more forward-facing role as CEO. At Greubel Forsey, he has decided to go a different way. He shares, “The culture and authenticity of what we do at Greubel Forsey is so extraordinary that, for me, the brand has to be the star. Now that we have a new offering, we can really sense the momentum behind us.”
Calce is right. When I went to the manufacture a few months later, I could sense the palpable excitement in every department with where the brand is headed.
2019 GMT Sport
In 2019, Greubel Forsey created two watches that would serve to inspire Calce and his team’s design philosophy today and have a direct role in the creation of the Balancier Convexe S². The first is the incredible GMT Sport. Says Calce, “This watch represents a milestone for us, because it was the first truly ergonomic titanium high complications sports watch we made.” Significantly, it marks the introduction of the ovoid multi-part titanium case with its signature trilobe proprietary screws. It is also the first watch to introduce the incredible V-bridge for the hands and gear train that hovers over the dial and brings an extraordinary sense of three-dimensional architectural depth to the timepiece. Previous versions of the GMT showed the time on a small subdial that occupied the space on the upper right of the watch. The GMT Sport does away with the dial altogether and ushered in the era of fully transparent movement and time telling integration.
2019 Balancier Contemporain
The second Greubel Forsey watch to emerge in 2019 that played an important role in the creation of the Balancier S2 is the Balancier Contemporain. This watch has the honor of being the brand’s smallest watch to date at 39.6mm in diameter and 12.6mm in height, as well as its first time-only watch made in series. At the heart of the Balancier Contemporain is, as its name implies, the extensive research that went into creating one of the world’s most efficient and visually stunning balance wheels. This element actually has its roots in a watch named Signature 1.
2020 Balancier S
Adds Calce, “Robert and I saw how sports watches had become one of the most dominant categories of timepieces, especially for new connoisseurs that were coming into the hobby. I had previously described this audience as fun, well-traveled, spontaneous with a love for cars, boats and sports. So it makes sense that they would naturally want to wear something with a rubber strap at the pool or beach or while skiing. The watch, while not as costly as the GMT Sport, could still have incredible visual presence on the wrist. The Balancier S was our way of creating a watch that fit the needs of this audience but with total integrity. Even if we are developing this new offering, it is important to highlight that we will continue to produce our signature timepieces that are part of our “Birth” pillar that encapsulates the ultra hi-end complicated timepieces with a predefined number of pieces created each year, for example the Grande Sonnerie, Hand Made 1, or the QP à Équation.”
2021 GMT Sport Integrated Bracelet
This brings us to 2021 and Geneva Watch Days, where I had the opportunity, after two years of the COVID pandemic, to finally meet Antonio Calce in the flesh. While I appreciated the efficiency of electronic communication, when it came to watches like Greubel Forsey’s where the internal surfaces of every gear wheel are masterfully finished, it is impossible to fully appreciate them from a distance. Similarly, Calce ,who has always been one of the warmest and most effusive CEOs in the business, needs to be experienced in reality, such is his dynamic energy that was fully on point, because he knew that he had enacted the perfect vision to bring Greubel Forsey into a thrilling and limitless future.
The first watch that I set eyes on and tried was the stunning GMT Sport, now with an integrated bracelet in titanium. While 40 thousand dollars seems like a significant amount of money for a bracelet, I had also never seen one that had received so much slavish hand finishing. Calce explains, “It is clear that integrated bracelet watches are the category of timepiece that is most popular and, of course, we had to react but in a way that was still very much Greubel Forsey. So if you look at the recesses in this element, you will see that the frosting which is executed on grade 5 titanium is done by hand.”
The Future Awaits
Which brings us back full circle to the Balancier Convexe S². Full disclosure: Calce and his amazing team consisting of Head of Marketing Michel Nydegger and PR officer Mathilde Degen-Enz (together one of the best and nicest communications teams in the business) lent me the prototype of the Balancier Convexe S² for a month. The first thing I have to say is that I was blown away by how comfortable it is to wear on the rubber strap and even more so on the integrated bracelet, which comes with a fine adjuster in the clasp. This element is hugely important for Singapore where your wrist swells in the heat and then contracts in the cold of the air conditioning all day long. The second thing I have to report is, don’t buy this watch if you don’t want every person in your vicinity asking for a closer look, such is the power of its wrist presence. Singapore is, in some ways, the perfect Greubel Forsey market because its entire population is — if not watch collectors — watch enthusiasts. People laugh when they come here because it’s like entering an alternate reality where everyone, from the guy driving your Uber (it’s called Grab here) to the sushi chef, is rocking some piece of badass horological finery. Everywhere I went, people want to know more about the Balancier S2. Then, as I explain about the massive 12.6mm balance wheel and how it’s positioned at 30 degrees for better chronometric performance, they will reply, “Dude, that’s cool as hell.”
I would prefer not to compare the two brands or respond to the question, “Is Greubel Forsey poised to be a true Richard Mille competitor?” Honestly, what Richard has done to create the phenomenon that he has is probably inimitable. I will, however, go on record saying that Greubel Forsey is about to be huge. And I mean frickin’ huge. Meaning that even its older pieces will soon start rising in value, so strong will the demand for its modern watches be.
Very shortly, it will only be a question of getting access to the watches — that’s how good the new ones are.